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Penetrating the top of a outdoor NEMA 3R Gutter/Through?

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For 1/2 & 3/4" KO'S in wet locations entering NEMA 3 R enclosures I have used a unibits but not drilled thru say the final taper on a 7/8" unibits so I could thread the conduit into the enclosure while still using a sealing locknut. We had lazy contractors only use cheapest hole saws to make 3/4" KO'S in top of indoor panels and after a quality steel EMT connector is installed could see daylight thru every hole. We have all seen water from a sprinkler, roof leak or old drain line spray water down on top of indoor panels. Had a outdoor VFD short out due to oversized KO and water dripped onto the 665 VOLT DC buss.
Yeah even punched holes are typically too large for the o-ring to cover. I mean I of course understand having some slop and play for easier makeup, but the whole system just needs to be completely re-engineered if you really want reliable sealing.
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
Never used a sealing locknut or ring in my career and don't intend on starting any time soon.

I don't tend to use things that everyone thinks will work when I know good and well that it won't.

JAP>
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
Well like it or not, sometimes you need these stupid things for code compliance and to pass inspection

Just saying, I'm old school.

I tend to use more robust means to begin with where meeting compliance and passing inspection is never an issue.

JAP>
 

don_resqcapt19

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retired electrician
No, that will not pass inspection. The only way I have every seen pass all inspections is to do it the that electrofelon descibed, with a myers hum and RT connector.
Sealing locknuts have the same listing at a conduit hub. The use of a raintight connector with a conduit hub is also not compliant as there are no raintight connectors, that I am aware of, that are marked on the box as being suitable for use with fittings having female threads. In addition the hub is only listed for use with RMC.
 
Just saying, I'm old school.

I tend to use more robust means to begin with where meeting compliance and passing inspection is never an issue.

JAP>
Like what? A Myers hub? I agree a myers hub is the best where rain tightness actually matters. Many applications, it doesn't even matter if some water drips in so I might not spring for the expense of one.
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
Like what? A Myers hub? I agree a myers hub is the best where rain tightness actually matters. Many applications, it doesn't even matter if some water drips in so I might not spring for the expense of one.

To each his own. (y)

JAP>
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
Do you never use Emt outside? Same thing with that, the RT connectors and couplings don't work, but many jobs don't have the budget for RGS.

No, I never use EMT outside. 😇

That's why it's all nonsense to think you can enforce something just because they say it's supposed to work.

JAP>
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
You say you use "stupid" things for code compliance yet they don't actually keep the water out.
Then say raintight connectors aren't listed to be used with a threaded hub because they don't keep the water out.
Then say most job's dont have the budget to use what actually is listed to work together to keep the water out.
Then say in most cases it doesn't matter if some water drips in anyway.

So what actually are we saying here?

I say, no matter what you do it's hard to keep the water out. :)

JAP>
 
No, I never use EMT outside. 😇

That's why it's all nonsense to think you can enforce something just because they say it's supposed to work.

JAP>
You must not do jobs where you have to wrap an existing building with exterior lighting or do roofs with a dozen or two HVAC units - or you do and you are fortunate that they have the budget for RGS.

I don't understand what you mean in the second paragraph. Most inspectors I have come across can and do enforce RT EMT fittings. You can tell him they don't work till you're red in the face, but you still won't pass the inspection without them.
 
You say you use "stupid" things for code compliance yet they don't actually keep the water out.
Right if it's something where a few drips of water won't matter. For example the nipple between a CT cabinet and the meter socket. No I'm not going to use a Myers hub on the side of the CT can for the 1" nipple. A 3R tap box below a meter is another one. I'll probably just use a rigid nipple and a ceiling lock nut, I don't see the need for a Meyers hub. I'm always going to arrange the splices such that they can't be dripped on and water won't surface tension down the conductor to the splice. EMT rain right couplings are another. There are already code sections that deal with water in conduits such as raceways shall be allowed to drain and conductors rated for wet locations. So I am using the rain tight fittings to pass my inspection, and I'm not concerned about some water in the conduit. So I'm going to make a call on what to use based on the importance of keeping water out. Yes of course there are situations I would definitely use a Myers hub.


Then say raintight connectors aren't listed to be used with a threaded hub because they don't keep the water out.

I don't think I said that. I just said hubs were not listed for anything other than RGS.

Then say most job's dont have the budget to use what actually is listed to work together to keep the water out.

I think I pretty much responded to this.

Then say in most cases it doesn't matter if some water drips in anyway.

Correct, many times it does not matter.

So what actually are we saying here?

I say, no matter what you do it's hard to keep the water out. :)
. Right. So assume water will get in, allow for drainage with weep holes and such and arrange splices to be clear of drips and such, and use what fittings you need to pass your inspection. 🤠

JAP>
[/QUOTE]
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
Right if it's something where a few drips of water won't matter. For example the nipple between a CT cabinet and the meter socket. No I'm not going to use a Myers hub on the side of the CT can for the 1" nipple. A 3R tap box below a meter is another one. I'll probably just use a rigid nipple and a ceiling lock nut, I don't see the need for a Meyers hub. I'm always going to arrange the splices such that they can't be dripped on and water won't surface tension down the conductor to the splice. EMT rain right couplings are another. There are already code sections that deal with water in conduits such as raceways shall be allowed to drain and conductors rated for wet locations. So I am using the rain tight fittings to pass my inspection, and I'm not concerned about some water in the conduit. So I'm going to make a call on what to use based on the importance of keeping water out. Yes of course there are situations I would definitely use a Myers hub.




I don't think I said that. I just said hubs were not listed for anything other than RGS.



I think I pretty much responded to this.



Correct, many times it does not matter.

. Right. So assume water will get in, allow for drainage with weep holes and such and arrange splices to be clear of drips and such, and use what fittings you need to pass your inspection. 🤠

JAP>
[/QUOTE]


Just saying, if "a few drips of water don't matter" then a sealing locknut is not rain tight either.

I'm with ya, we're all fighting the same battle.


JAP>
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
Wrap an existing building with exterior lighting or do roofs with a dozen or two HVAC units - or you do and you are fortunate that they have the budget for RGS.

And, as far as this, yes, have done all of the above.

95% of my career, Industrial hazardous locations and mostly all rigid work.

JAP>
 

jap

Senior Member
Occupation
Electrician
Nice! Yeah in my perfect world it would be all true panelboards - no load centers, all RGS no EMT, no ramen, etc, but alas often the Cadillac materials and methods aren't in the budget

Come on over. :)

In my world you'll get flagged for "not" using the Cadillac materials.

JAP>
 
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