Programmed start ballasts

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jonny1982

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So I have a T-5, 4 lamp highbay with a programmed start ballast. Is this the same as rapid start? Will a bodine ballast with diagrams for use with instant start and rapid start work with programmed start? Or do I need a different bodine ballast that works specifically with programmed start?

Thanks
 
?I called Philips tech support and the engineer emailed me some diagrams that I've been unable to upload to this site. Their own Osram QHE4x54 ballast was not in the Bodine diagrams and neither was a GE454 ballast that I found a couple fixtures over. I have both diagrams and I can try to email them to you if you PM your email to me

Your intuition is correct. You should be able to wire it as you are inclined.
 
jeremysterling said:
?I called Philips tech support and the engineer emailed me some diagrams that I've been unable to upload to this site. Their own Osram QHE4x54 ballast was not in the Bodine diagrams and neither was a GE454 ballast that I found a couple fixtures over. I have both diagrams and I can try to email them to you if you PM your email to me

Your intuition is correct. You should be able to wire it as you are inclined.
Click to expand...

What is PM?
 
jonny1982 said:
So I have a T-5, 4 lamp highbay with a programmed start ballast. Is this the same as rapid start? Will a bodine ballast with diagrams for use with instant start and rapid start work with programmed start? Or do I need a different bodine ballast that works specifically with programmed start?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Looking at the QHE 4 lamp T5 ballast , I would wire it like diagram "C" here. Take a close look at the ballast label. You'll see that it's wired as if there's two two-lamp ballasts in one case. Treat it as such.Pretend like the other pair does not even exist, but don't cross between pairs.

If you cross pairs it will just likely not work.

Even if yours is two lamp emergency ballast, if it does not support two lamp T5 operation DO NOT wire it to run two lamps. If you try to run more lamps than it's supposed to, it might test fine, but not work down the road or fry the emergency ballast during actual use.

http://www.bodine.com/downloads/install/B50.inst.(elc).443529060931.pdf

jeremysterling said:
?I called Philips tech support and the engineer emailed me some diagrams that I've been unable to upload to this site. Their own Osram QHE4x54 ballast was not in the Bodine diagrams and neither was a GE454 ballast that I found a couple fixtures over. I have both diagrams and I can try to email them to you if you PM your email to me

Your intuition is correct. You should be able to wire it as you are inclined.
Click to expand...

Osram is Osram Sylvania, not Philips Advance.
 
Last edited:
Fluorescent tubes have filaments at the ends which emit electrons into the gas filling the tubes.

'Rapid start' ballasts heat these filaments to get them to emit electrons. While they are running the filaments are kept hot, which uses energy that doesn't produce light.

'Instant start' ballasts use a high starting voltage to get electron emission started.

'Program start' ballasts heat the filament on start-up, but then turn it off.

-Jon
 
jeremysterling said:
?I called Philips tech support and the engineer emailed me some diagrams that I've been unable to upload to this site. Their own Osram QHE4x54 ballast was not in the Bodine diagrams and neither was a GE454 ballast that I found a couple fixtures over. I have both diagrams and I can try to email them to you if you PM your email to me

Your intuition is correct. You should be able to wire it as you are inclined.
Click to expand...

Hi, did you get my email?

thanks
 
Electric-Light said:
Looking at the QHE 4 lamp T5 ballast , I would wire it like diagram "C" here. Take a close look at the ballast label. You'll see that it's wired as if there's two two-lamp ballasts in one case. Treat it as such.Pretend like the other pair does not even exist, but don't cross between pairs.

If you cross pairs it will just likely not work.

Even if yours is two lamp emergency ballast, if it does not support two lamp T5 operation DO NOT wire it to run two lamps. If you try to run more lamps than it's supposed to, it might test fine, but not work down the road or fry the emergency ballast during actual use.

http://www.bodine.com/downloads/install/B50.inst.(elc).443529060931.pdf



Osram is Osram Sylvania, not Philips Advance.
Click to expand...

I'm not quite understanding how your explaining to wire it like diagram C.

Another thing is, the existing ac ballast in my fixture that I have to make emergency has the hot and neutral. Then it has (6) pairs of colored wires, (12 wires- 2 red, 2 blue, 2 blue with white, 2 orange, 2 brown, and 2 yellow). In the diagrams that came with the emergency ballast, all the ac ballast in the diagrams all have a maximum of (5) pairs (10 colored wires).
 
jeremysterling said:
Thank you for the correction.



Yes. I sent the drawings to your email.

Electric-Light has made good statements regarding these 4-lamp ballast are like 2 2-lamp ballast in one case.
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Thank-you for the drawing. It looks closer to the setup I have, however, the emergency ballast I have doesn't have a white-red and white-black. It seems the way you use it with a wall switch is hooking up the hot from the wallswitch to the regular ballast and hooking up the constant hot to the emergency ballast ( the emergency ballast has a black wire for constant hot hookup.) Do you have another drawing that more matches this configuration?

I would send you a pictures of the product I am using, but won't be able to get them until tomorrow. If you have anything tonight, would greatly appreciate.

Thanks for your help!
 
jonny1982 said:
Thank-you for the drawing. It looks closer to the setup I have, however, the emergency ballast I have doesn't have a white-red and white-black. It seems the way you use it with a wall switch is hooking up the hot from the wallswitch to the regular ballast and hooking up the constant hot to the emergency ballast ( the emergency ballast has a black wire for constant hot hookup.) Do you have another drawing that more matches this configuration?

I would send you a pictures of the product I am using, but won't be able to get them until tomorrow. If you have anything tonight, would greatly appreciate.

Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

So, go to the internet and download the manual for that model of regular and EM ballasts. You didn't mention if each fixture is on or off; or if it has two switches to select the number of lamps burning. If they're wired for straight on or off, you can ignore that part.

Unlike plain two lamp T8 instant start ballasts which only have red yellow and blue that almost universally wired the same, there is wiring variation between ballasts for programmed start. Just go visually. One end pig tails into the bridge(on T8... this is usually yellow). The other end is a pass-through. Get a good idea of it and you'll know what to do with many different versions out there.

The always-on hot is used by the emergency ballast to charge itself as well as detect when there's a power outage.
 

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Why do you wish to change the operation of the lamps. Your efficiency will be affected.
 
Sierrasparky said:
Why do you wish to change the operation of the lamps. Your efficiency will be affected.
Click to expand...

The thread starter is asking about how to add an emergency ballast. It's a dedicated battery back-up that is mounted within a limited number of fixtures to provide at least 90 minutes of light during a power outage as required by code.
 
winnie said:
Fluorescent tubes have filaments at the ends which emit electrons into the gas filling the tubes.

'Rapid start' ballasts heat these filaments to get them to emit electrons. While they are running the filaments are kept hot, which uses energy that doesn't produce light.

'Instant start' ballasts use a high starting voltage to get electron emission started.

'Program start' ballasts heat the filament on start-up, but then turn it off.

-Jon
Click to expand...

Which in your opinion is best
 
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