Proper block wall anchors for tv mount

Status
Not open for further replies.
mark32 said:
Thanks Bob and co. for the input. I too was told by a cabinet guy about those toggles and their usefullness. But like Don just posted, you'll have to hit the block's cavity in order to use them. I always wanted to try those caulk-in anchors, hmm, I'll just bring both anchor types with me, maybe the larger Tapcons too. For this application I have the most confidence in those toggles though. Bob, I sent you a PM.
Click to expand...
You will need the hollow wall setting tool to use the caulk-in anchors if you don't hit the center of the web with your hole. I just use that setting tool even if the hole is in solid material.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
You will need the hollow wall setting tool to use the caulk-in anchors if you don't hit the center of the web with your hole. I just use that setting tool even if the hole is in solid material.
Click to expand...

Hello Don, I'm glad you brought that up. If I remember correctly, years ago, a co-worker built such a set tool with threaded rod, a piece of 1/2" emt, couple of washers, and a nut. Does that sound familiar? I'll have to look into that. What do you think has more pull out strength, the caulk-in or the same sized tapcon?
 
mark32 said:
Hello Don, I'm glad you brought that up. If I remember correctly, years ago, a co-worker built such a set tool with threaded rod, a piece of 1/2" emt, couple of washers, and a nut. Does that sound familiar? I'll have to look into that. What do you think has more pull out strength, the caulk-in or the same sized tapcon?
Click to expand...

greenlee makes the setting tool... you want the one in the picture, honest.
when you see the price, you'll know that you have a heirloom to pass on
to your decedents.

https://www.zoro.com/greenlee-screw...L8qgburcLWdgS3mM6YTKYaAiGG8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

$70 for the 3/8" one, $46 for the 1/4".

but, you drill a hole, screw the caulk-in onto the tool, put it in
flush, and hammer till you get a nice solid ringing sound.
unscrew the tool, and you have something that won't pull out,
and didn't blow out the wall installing it.

for setting heavy machinery, this type of anchor comes in sizes
up to 1 1/2" thread or so, and they are still used in machine shops
for putting stuff down. you caulk them with several lead rings in
layers.......
 
mark32 said:
Hello Don, I'm glad you brought that up. If I remember correctly, years ago, a co-worker built such a set tool with threaded rod, a piece of 1/2" emt, couple of washers, and a nut. Does that sound familiar? I'll have to look into that. What do you think has more pull out strength, the caulk-in or the same sized tapcon?
Click to expand...

hilti makes a self tapping anchor in 3/8" that they are using at LAX for remodeling.
otherwise, they'd have to epoxy in SS running thread, and pull test it after curing.
sorta cuts down the progress of framing walls.

don't think they are approved for hollow block walls, however.
 
I have yet to have a flat panel mount that does not come with lags and plastic anchors.
What is wrong with the plastic anchors that come with the flat panel bracket?
 
mark32 said:
Hello Don, I'm glad you brought that up. If I remember correctly, years ago, a co-worker built such a set tool with threaded rod, a piece of 1/2" emt, couple of washers, and a nut. Does that sound familiar? I'll have to look into that. What do you think has more pull out strength, the caulk-in or the same sized tapcon?
Click to expand...
Yes, I have seen home built tools for that purpose...I always used the Greenlee ones and had the 10-24, 1/4" and 3/8" sizes in my tool box.

I really don't know...there are published specs for both, but I have never liked tapcons.
 
Fulthrotl said:
greenlee makes the setting tool... you want the one in the picture, honest.
when you see the price, you'll know that you have a heirloom to pass on
to your decedents.

https://www.zoro.com/greenlee-screw...L8qgburcLWdgS3mM6YTKYaAiGG8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

$70 for the 3/8" one, $46 for the 1/4".

but, you drill a hole, screw the caulk-in onto the tool, put it in
flush, and hammer till you get a nice solid ringing sound.
unscrew the tool, and you have something that won't pull out,
and didn't blow out the wall installing it.

for setting heavy machinery, this type of anchor comes in sizes
up to 1 1/2" thread or so, and they are still used in machine shops
for putting stuff down. you caulk them with several lead rings in
layers.......
Click to expand...

Thanks man, but am I crazy? I thought that Greenlee tool expands the anchor by turning the outer knob. If that's not the case, then the anchor doesn't expand until you actually run your bolt into it?
 
mark32 said:
Thanks man, but am I crazy? I thought that Greenlee tool expands the anchor by turning the outer knob. If that's not the case, then the anchor doesn't expand until you actually run your bolt into it?
Click to expand...

I've never used that tool but imagine it threads into the anchor and pulls the wedge as you turn the knob. You can't use traditional punch type set tool in a hollow wall as that would just drive the anchor into the hollow space.
 
mark32 said:
Thanks man, but am I crazy? I thought that Greenlee tool expands the anchor by turning the outer knob. If that's not the case, then the anchor doesn't expand until you actually run your bolt into it?
Click to expand...
You screw the anchor on to the tool and place the anchor into the hole, making sure the tool is tight against the wall surface. The threads and the outer ring of the tool hold the anchor in place. The hammer blows forces the movable part of the tool against the lead and drives the lead deeper into the hole. The threaded part of the anchor is wedge shaped and the lead is forced down on the wedge causing it to expand against the wall of the hole.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
You screw the anchor on to the tool and place the anchor into the hole, making sure the tool is tight against the wall surface. The threads and the outer ring of the tool hold the anchor in place. The hammer blows forces the movable part of the tool against the lead and drives the lead deeper into the hole. The threaded part of the anchor is wedge shaped and the lead is forced down on the wedge causing it to expand against the wall of the hole.
Click to expand...

Wow, all these years I never knew that's how that tool worked. However, would it not work if you ran a nut and washer onto some rod, then threaded on the anchor. Place it into the hole and run the nut and washer up against the wall. Turn the nut and as the rod pulls out it expands the anchor in that manner, right? I think an experiment is due.
 
mark32 said:
Wow, all these years I never knew that's how that tool worked. However, would it not work if you ran a nut and washer onto some rod, then threaded on the anchor. Place it into the hole and run the nut and washer up against the wall. Turn the nut and as the rod pulls out it expands the anchor in that manner, right? I think an experiment is due.
Click to expand...

Like this?

images
 
K8MHZ said:
Like this?

images
Click to expand...

Those are better for solid concrete. They could fracture the block as you tighten them if the block is hollow.
For block walls I would use tapcons. Buy the matching drill bit and you'll be in good shape.
 
mgookin said:
Those are better for solid concrete. They could fracture the block as you tighten them if the block is hollow.
For block walls I would use tapcons. Buy the matching drill bit and you'll be in good shape.
Click to expand...
Full box of tapcon screws usually includes the correct bit for the contained screws. When you can purchase them individually is when you need to find correct bit.
 
mgookin said:
...
For block walls I would use tapcons. ...
Click to expand...
I use tapcons at times but there are two out three things I don't like about them. The three things are: 1) they install great, 2) they spin out the concrete just as they get tight enough (or before in some cases), and 3) the head breaks off or drive strips out before snugging up to piece being fastened. A lot of what happens depends on the concrete's composition, as not all concrete is equal.
 
Smart $ said:
I use tapcons at times but there are two out three things I don't like about them. The three things are: 1) they install great, 2) they spin out the concrete just as they get tight enough (or before in some cases), and 3) the head breaks off or drive strips out before snugging up to piece being fastened. A lot of what happens depends on the concrete's composition, as not all concrete is equal.
Click to expand...
Do we get to pick the two things you don't like?:cool:
 
I like the hex head tapcons. You can't beat them with a little 1/4" ratchet.

One thing people do all the time, and not just with tapcons, is over tighten. All you need is to feel some good resistance. You don't need to torque it to the hills.

With an anchor perpendicular to the wall, the two forces are shear and withdrawl. It's not going to shear and you only need to tighten it enough to make sure it does not spin backwards.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top