Proper way to crimp a butt splice?

[mbrooke]

What is the proper (technical) way to crimp a butt splice? >>>

I have always used this:

However I am being told its incorrect? :?

 

[petersonra]

electricians seem to like the plier type tools because they are cheap and fast.

if not done correctly and consistently though, you can have problems which is why most engineers specify a controlled cycle crimper that makes the crimp exactly the same way every time and entirely removes the human variability that would otherwise exist.

https://www.cdw.com/shop/products/P...s_kwcid=AL!4223!3!61836302419!!!g!18283950120!

 

[mgookin]

A certified calibrated tool that matches the crimp connector is the "official" way to do it. You'd have to look for listed connectors and find the matching tool.

 

[qcroanoke]

What is the proper (technical) way to crimp a butt splice? >>>





However I am being told its incorrect? :?

If the crimp mfgr. requires a certain tool you have to use that. If not I guess as long as you can't pull it apart you're gold.

 

[mbrooke]

What I suspected, though I must ask why such a tool needs to cost $350?

 

[Smart $]

Listed compression-type connectors almost without fail specify one or several crimp tools, which must be used to maintain the listing.

 

[qcroanoke]

What I suspected, though I must ask why such a tool needs to cost $350?

Because it can....
I'll hazard a guess that they really don't sell that many and if you buy one to comply with the requirements you're gonna pay for it.

 

[AKElectrician]

Up to AHJ IMHO, been places where the name brand crimp must be crimped by the same name brand crimper, don't matter if the lug company specifies another tool that can be used, if it doesn't say the same name brand on both it's a no go. Same place makes you where ice cleats in mud if there is ice on a pond you cant walk too though...

 

[mgookin]

Those expensive tools are most commonly used in listed shops. The NRTL inspector wants to see it.

Regardless of what tool you use, if you damage the insulated part, you're a no-go. Part of the requirement of using listed connectors is that you don't damage the insulation.

 

[mbrooke]

Oddly, well crimped splices with a $40 crimper seem to hold up just fine, and for years. Sounds more like technical jiber jaber I guess.

 

[mbrooke]

Those expensive tools are most commonly used in listed shops. The NRTL inspector wants to see it.

Regardless of what tool you use, if you damage the insulated part, you're a no-go. Part of the requirement of using listed connectors is that you don't damage the insulation.

About the only tools that I see damaging insulation are ones with points on the diye.

 

[GoldDigger]

Just to get a vigorous discussion going:

Do you crimp only the thick metal barrel or do you also crimp the thin section covering the wire insulation?

 

[petersonra]

Just to get a vigorous discussion going:

Do you crimp only the thick metal barrel or do you also crimp the thin section covering the wire insulation?

the instructions will tell you where to crimp

 

[mbrooke]

Just to get a vigorous discussion going:

Do you crimp only the thick metal barrel or do you also crimp the thin section covering the wire insulation?

Only the metal barrel. Ive never done the opening out of fear it would cut the strands.

 

[GeorgeB]

What is the proper (technical) way to crimp a butt splice?

I've always been told that an insulated terminal is squeezed only, not indented. The ones you show, like the common Klein StaKon cutter/crimpers, are for uninsulated. The old "Service Tool II" by then AMP I think, now TE Connectivity TE Connectivity 696202-1, handled those "flag" terminals that folded over the conductor, the other "flag" that folder over the insulation, and the squeeze for the insulated "barrel" crimps.

I think I paid about $40 for mine in the late 80s when I had to make up a dozen or so multipole connectors with the flag crimps.

 

[mbrooke]

I've always been told that an insulated terminal is squeezed only, not indented. The ones you show, like the common Klein StaKon cutter/crimpers, are for uninsulated. The old "Service Tool II" by then AMP I think, now TE Connectivity TE Connectivity 696202-1, handled those "flag" terminals that folded over the conductor, the other "flag" that folder over the insulation, and the squeeze for the insulated "barrel" crimps.

I think I paid about $40 for mine in the late 80s when I had to make up a dozen or so multipole connectors with the flag crimps.

Do you have a link for that tool?

My understanding is that the most strippers squeeze rather than indent. Is this not the case?

 

[Frank DuVal]

This is my go to tool for crimping insulated terminals.

Put the wire into the side with the color dots. I keep correcting people I work with. The old " when all else fails and the wire pulls out, read the directions!"

http://idealind.com/ideal-electrica...l-with-insulated-terminal-die-set-30-500.aspx

You can also get dies for uninsulated terminals, coax fittings, RJ series.....

 

[mbrooke]

This is my go to tool for crimping insulated terminals.

Put the wire into the side with the color dots. I keep correcting people I work with. The old " when all else fails and the wire pulls out, read the directions!"

http://idealind.com/ideal-electrica...l-with-insulated-terminal-die-set-30-500.aspx

You can also get dies for uninsulated terminals, coax fittings, RJ series.....

Might use that instead. But how far off am I with these?

 

[gadfly56]

Might use that instead. But how far off am I with these?

Someone's been rooting around in my tool bag!

 

[GeorgeB]

Do you have a link for that tool?

My understanding is that the most strippers squeeze rather than indent. Is this not the case?

Put the part number into Google and you'll get at least 100 hits ... here's the manual ... http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/418/NG_SS_408-8620_C-116043.pdf

Here, from the instructions, is a picture.

I use StaKon pliers which indent ... even when I shouldn't.