stevenje
Senior Member
- Location
- Yachats Oregon
Can you give us the manufacture's name? Thanks.
PVC cement application
- Thread starter JJWalecka
- Start date
- Status
Can you give us the manufacture's name? Thanks.
jmellc
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
- Occupation
- Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
And if you man up it will stop bleeding from a cut.
Anybody knows we use black tape for cuts.
jmellc
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
- Occupation
- Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
If I see a small spot without glue, I dab a bit on it to seal the crack. I like clear better than grey. Grey seems slow to set up to me.
- Location
- Tennessee NEC:2017
- Occupation
- Semi-Retired Electrician
Works great on the outside......for the inspector, when you forgot to glue a joint together!:angel:
renosteinke
Senior Member
- Location
- NE Arkansas
A few bits of trivia about PVC glues:
1) There is no technical reason the glue, or the primer, cannot be made in any color of the rainbow. It's only a desire for good workmanship and easy inspection that folks use 'purple' primer, with a glue colored to match the pipe;
2) PVC glues DO come in different 'bodies,' or weights. There's 'light body' stuff that is thinner than water, 'medium' which is what most is, and 'heavy,' which is as thick as maple syrup on a cool day. Which one is 'best' depends on how large of a gap you need to fill and how hot it is outside. The goal, of course, is to have just enough 'working time.'; and,
3) Only the clear stuff carries a UL lable for use on electrical work.
Enough for the facts Now, for my opinions:
I am not the least bit concerned whether the glue has a UL sticker. I'm only interested in that it be a PVC glue. Actually, I've encountered numerous PVC runs where the glue didn't hold, or wasn't used at all, and I didn't see any harm done.
Which is an attitude that contradicts my personal practices, where I've grown to prefer using the clear 'pipe cleaner' as a primer, followed by glue on both pieces to be joined. I want MY pipe to stick together. It just seems 'right.'
I'll use the clear stuff - which is thinner and dries faster - in cooler weather. I'll use the gray stuff - which is thicker and gives me more 'working time' - in hot weather and with large (2" and up) fittings.
While I don't apply glue to the assembled joint, I like to see a nice bead of glue around the joint after I push the parts together.
Finally, the stuff does need a bit of time - maybe 30 seconds or so - to really set up. Plumbers are told to wait at least 15 minutes before turning the water back on. Those parts may not move around any more, but the bond is still forming.
1) There is no technical reason the glue, or the primer, cannot be made in any color of the rainbow. It's only a desire for good workmanship and easy inspection that folks use 'purple' primer, with a glue colored to match the pipe;
2) PVC glues DO come in different 'bodies,' or weights. There's 'light body' stuff that is thinner than water, 'medium' which is what most is, and 'heavy,' which is as thick as maple syrup on a cool day. Which one is 'best' depends on how large of a gap you need to fill and how hot it is outside. The goal, of course, is to have just enough 'working time.'; and,
3) Only the clear stuff carries a UL lable for use on electrical work.
Enough for the facts
Now, for my opinions:I am not the least bit concerned whether the glue has a UL sticker. I'm only interested in that it be a PVC glue. Actually, I've encountered numerous PVC runs where the glue didn't hold, or wasn't used at all, and I didn't see any harm done.
Which is an attitude that contradicts my personal practices, where I've grown to prefer using the clear 'pipe cleaner' as a primer, followed by glue on both pieces to be joined. I want MY pipe to stick together. It just seems 'right.'
I'll use the clear stuff - which is thinner and dries faster - in cooler weather. I'll use the gray stuff - which is thicker and gives me more 'working time' - in hot weather and with large (2" and up) fittings.
While I don't apply glue to the assembled joint, I like to see a nice bead of glue around the joint after I push the parts together.
Finally, the stuff does need a bit of time - maybe 30 seconds or so - to really set up. Plumbers are told to wait at least 15 minutes before turning the water back on. Those parts may not move around any more, but the bond is still forming.
Fulthrotl
~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
- Occupation
- E
for most of us, when gluing large PVC, we tend to glue it up and then put it in the ditch.....
i've seen situations where it was thrown in the ditch after sitting in the sun, and being nice
and hot, and backfilled immediately, and when it cooled off, it shrank and pulled apart.
the problem occurs when the stuff is anchored at both ends and there is a 50 degree difference
between hot sun, and cool bottom of the ditch.
Got a call 5 or 6 years ago from someone that had water running into their basement through the conduit that fed another building on the property. I took the cover off of the LB on the house end and the water poured out steadily.
The other building sits about 20 feet higher in elevation than the house. When I went up to check out the out building, I noticed that all the wiring inside had been done in PVC and not one joint was glued. The best I can figure is that neither was the conduit in the ground, so after a soaking rain, the ground water gets into the conduit and the path of least resistance is right down the hill through the conduit.
renosteinke
Senior Member
- Location
- NE Arkansas
Water in a conduit? Who would have thunk it?
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
If it can seep in it can seep out. Unless you were there immediately after a heavy rain, the water likely was in the conduit because of the rain and leaking fittings, unless runoff was somehow channeled to the underground conduit, otherwise runoff remains on the surface with only minimal ground absorption compared to how much runs off. If you have sandy or other loose soil, then more may be absorbed but it would still have to be channeled to where the underground raceway is before there would be significant amount available to seep into leaking fittings.
High water table could be an issue, but then you would have other high water related issues in the house as well
In this case there is a pretty good amount of elevation change between buildings. If the bells of the conduits are facing uphill, then the path of least resistance for any water that gets in is down the hill through the conduit.
Gravity prevails when all else fails :happyyes:
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Unless the trench has not been there for very long, what do you think the chance is that the soil around the conduit is going to be that saturated with water that it will flow. Once the trench has been there a while and dirt has settled and compacted it will be fairly resistant to water flow. This is why water runs off when we have heavy rains instead of soaking in.
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