LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Temporarily replace the GFCI breaker with a standard breaker.
Temporarily replace the GFCI breaker with a standard breaker.
10% over for five minutes is a yawn on the trip curve.No, usually takes 3-5 minutes or more. The electrician who proposed this theory had not looked at the trip curves, he just noticed that the stove was supposed to be on a 50 amp breaker per manufacturer, but was pulling 54-55 amps as it was coming up to cooking temperature.
UL943 Class-A GFCI's trip level is in the range 4 – 6mA.5 milliamps to trip a GFCI at 120v comes out to 24,000 ohms of resistance, with field conditions to take into account. Is there a way I could try to measure the resistance to see if that is feasible in this case? Maybe from the case of the stove to a nearby grounded outlet?
I'd say measure the leakage current in miliamps with a known good meter and compare it to some test loads.Is there a way I could try to measure the resistance to see if that is feasible in this case? Maybe from the case of the stove to a nearby grounded outlet?
Can you post some photos of the test setup? What kind of box was it?We removed and capped the equipment grounding conductor from the receptacle, and bonded the ground screw on the receptacle to the neutral screw on the receptacle (just for testing purposes).
It still trips the GFCI breaker. In this set-up, there is nowhere for leakage current to go except back on the neutral.
You keep posting that no appliances will work on AFCI or GFCI which is NOT true. Some appliances have issues.In California only the appliances certified can be installed, other states are in the process of passing similar requirements.
So, the industry stuck ... you have to install these appliances that will not work with GFCI/AFCI and the NEC say you have to install these devices for consumer protection.
Some Dual Function devices also filter electronic noise better than stand-alone GFCI's.You keep posting that no appliances will work on AFCI or GFCI which is NOT true. Some appliances have issues.
Unfortunately, it was in someone's home, so we tested as described, but in the end we went with a non-GFCI breaker, approved the install, and I no longer have access to do any testing. I think it was one of the white fiberglass boxes? I don't have pictures.How much access do you have to this site? Can you do some testing?
Can you post some photos of the test setup? What kind of box was it?
Yeah, I know they have had quite a few problems with this issue. That is basically how we have had to handle it too, I just want to understand why they don't work and if there is a way around the problem that no one has thought of.Have you read the Massachusetts GFCI exception?
Yes, absolutely, I would love to talk to them.Are you interested in a referral to technical folks at AHAM, the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers? They're feeling the brunt of the GFCI revolution in terms of returns of equipment to stores, or so I've heard.
UL943 Class-A GFCI's trip level is in the range 4 – 6mA.
My Ideal Sure Test tests GFCI's and gives you a readout of the test mA (usually around 7.3) and measures the time to trip in milliseconds, I'd recommend using one of those to test the trip time, all you need is a adapter cord to fit the range receptacle, I made an adapter with a 3- way switch so I can test each line-neutral of a range receptacle.
Another test I have done is with 30k ohm 3 Watt resistors wired to a pigtail.
I have two toggle switches to switch on the 2nd and 3rd 30k resistors in parallel.
I meter the leakage current, if the GFCI trips with the first resistor its too sensitive.
They make testers for 120V GFCI's but not 240V ones.
I'd say measure the leakage current in miliamps with a known good meter and compare it to some test loads.
These are good ideas, I will start plotting how to implement these on the next one. Thanks!How much access do you have to this site? Can you do some testing? Consider getting a Gen 3 Emporia meter, and hook to
all three phases. You can trivially graph the startup draw on all three legs: hot hot and neutral.
Of course, after it tripped the 2d time I picked up a standard 20-amp breaker and a gfci receptacle and was going to change those out now it looks like I won't have to. Time will tell.
These are good ideas, I will start plotting how to implement these on the next one. Thanks!