Receptacle height

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James L said:
Kitchen receptacles are also at 43".
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that would center the receps exactly between the countertop and upper cabinet?[/QUOTE] AND?? The countertop is 36" AFF and sometimes 38" for tall clients. Add 4" for a backsplash and 43" is between 1" and 3" off the back splash
 
Working in the Inner City, it's a rare job that is actually 100% new construction, so I wind up paying attention to the heights in the areas outside of my work area in order to match throughout the dwelling.

In situations where I have total discretion, I like 48" on center for switches and 14" for receptacles; a 44" laser line level in the kitchen and 42" in the bath to stay below tile bullnose. Unfinished area, garages, shops, etc. everything is 48" O.C.
 
I put my receptacle boxes @ hammer height (mine is roughly 13") to the bottom of the box and my switches, counter top receptacles, washers & dryers, etc @ 44" to the bottom screw hole of the box (I have a stick that I have put a screw in @ 44" & put the screw into the bottom hole of the box, this gets my boxes [especially for tile] real close to all the same height).
 
I think this is histerical that there are so many different answers.
I put the recpts at 14" and switches at 48" to the top.
If I'm remodeling I match the existing.
The range and fridge I check the specs. If they don't matter I put range a few inches below the top. I've found that it's easier to unplug them, the higher they are. fridge doesn't matter if there are no specs.
Thanks
Mike
 
For those of you that said they put the measurement to the center of the box, how do you stay consistent with that. Do your boxes have a centerline mark?
I would have a hard time just eyeballing the box to be center. I find it easier/faster to make a jig such as a stick or 2x4 and just mark the studs at the top of the stick or just set the box on top and nail it on.
 
Little Bill said:
For those of you that said they put the measurement to the center of the box, how do you stay consistent with that. Do your boxes have a centerline mark?
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Most boxes, or box brackets have something to find center.

I find it easier/faster to make a jig such as a stick or 2x4 and just mark the studs at the top of the stick or just set the box on top and nail it on.
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If you use all the same kind of boxes that works good.

But we use various boxes and to end up with a consistent finish you must use the center or a 6/32 screw hole.
 
iwire said:
Most boxes, or box brackets have something to find center.



If you use all the same kind of boxes that works good.

But we use various boxes and to end up with a consistent finish you must use the center or a 6/32 screw hole.
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To be honest, I've never looked for a center mark.
Now you have forced me into looking tomorrow!:)
 
mike1061 said:
I think this is histerical that there are so many different answers.
I put the recpts at 14" and switches at 48" to the top.
If I'm remodeling I match the existing.
The range and fridge I check the specs. If they don't matter I put range a few inches below the top. I've found that it's easier to unplug them, the higher they are. fridge doesn't matter if there are no specs.
Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

I find it weird/cool/funny when I measure an existing box and its center is exactly on an inch line, like 16 inches. I'm impressed that the electrician probably took into account the measurement from the sub-floor and the depth of the finished floor.
 
10428465_707589342622458_1005587954696444945_n.jpg
 
Dennis Alwon said:
48" to the bottom was standard for switches around here about 30 years ago. Not sure how 43" got started here but I remember using 43" and the architects and designers loved it. I think a customer asked to have them lower. That is pretty much the unspoken rule now.

At 48" the switches often interfered with pictures etc that were hung on the wall so 43" was, IMO a great compromise.
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That's what I ran into.
The owner saw the switches at 48" to the center and said they didnt want them that high.
Ended up 44" to the center was where they liked it.

JAP>
 
jaylectricity said:
I find it weird/cool/funny when I measure an existing box and its center is exactly on an inch line, like 16 inches. I'm impressed that the electrician probably took into account the measurement from the sub-floor and the depth of the finished floor.
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Commercial prints for hotels often call for receptacles 18" AFF, centerline. I know one co. that did not use AFF, just used the subfloor, and by the time gypcrete was poured and tile laid, his receptacles above the cabinents were *just* a tad too low -behind the granite backsplash. Oops. When I rough in I take into account the floor finish (carpet, tile, hardwood, etc.) and box accordingly.

Did a job today where quite a few receptacles were in the baseboard trim. My back now officially dislikes receptacles 2" AFF. :D
 
NECA 1-2006 ANSI Standard for Good Workmanship in Electrical Construction

NECA 1-2006 ANSI Standard for Good Workmanship in Electrical Construction

jap said:
What height off the floor do you guys generally rough in switches,recepts,range,fridge,dishwasher,kitchen countertop etc.....?

Jap?
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From the chart in NECA 1-2006 ANSI Standard for Good Workmanship in Electrical Construction:
Table 3: Typical Mounting Heights
Wall switches 48" (120 cm)
Receptacle outlets (general) 18" (45 cm)
Receptacle outlets (kitchen, utility room, workbenches, etc.) 42" (105 cm), or 6" (15 cm) above countertop

11.1 Recommended Outlet Mounting Heights
Table 3 describes typical mounting heights for various outlets and control devices. All heights are measured from finished floor to centerline of device. These heights comply with the requirements of the ADAG (Americans with Disability Act Guidelines.)


Note: There's a bunch of other devices listed in the Table as well
 
All the different measurement are interesting, In my 48 years experience it's been 42" to bottom screw for switches everywhere. This keeps the switch plate flat on the finished wall and not on the hump of the board joint. 42" in kitchen for recepts also. This keeps them up for the old school 4" back splash. They just look out of place any higher than that. 16" to the bottom for Recepts because that's where the joint line on the block was. Back in the day we hammered out a hole in the block and install the box nailing it to the furring strip. Most houses were block wall. Back then we didn't seal around the boxes in the wall. No caulking at the top. No insulation on the walls. Just thin paper.

The GC was well aware that if he didn't provide the Range, Air handler, Micro/hood, or A/C info at rough-in that he was getting min size wire size and he wasn't gonna like my bill to install larger on the trim.:happysad: They soon learned to teach the drywall guys how to use a router also. My bills to repair nicked wires from routers really pissed some off.:eek:

Plumber and a/c had to be finished before I would start rough.
 
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