Receptacle Install time?

[Ponchik]

What does the situation on the software describe?

This is for service work and it says:

Change one 15A duplex residential grade TR receptacle. Includes cover plate.


This does not apply to new construction or major remodel.

 

[James L]

This is for service work and it says:

Change one 15A duplex residential grade TR receptacle. Includes cover plate.


This does not apply to new construction or major remodel.

What sort of parameters are proposed in the software to account for all things not associated with turning the screws?

Is there any sort of minimum or average scope used as a basis? Is that to be added to a trip charge and minimum service fee?

At what point would a service call minimum be overtaken by itemization?

I would think there's not really any practical benefit in estimating time frames for service work items

 

[Little Bill]

btw, I don't use spools. I use 250' rolls. And I'm not usually moving my stud reels around. I find a good spot that works for the whole house.

What do you use to mount the 250' coils?
How are they not twisted coming off the coils?

I haven't found a 250' roll/coil yet that the NM doesn't come out with loops and twists.
I usually pull off a generous amount and try to straighten it out as I walk back to either cut it off or pull more out.

 

[John120/240]

What do you use to mount the 250' coils?
How are they not twisted coming off the coils?

I haven't found a 250' roll/coil yet that the NM doesn't come out with loops and twists.
I usually pull off a generous amount and try to straighten it out as I walk back to either cut it off or pull more out.

For 250 ft one of these romex stud reel...

Usually perfer 1000 ft spools. Mount on the top floor & if any wire is left just use the wire on the next floor. Only use 250 ft coils when 1000 ft is not needed, 14-3, 12-3, 14-2-2-
romex stud reel...http://www.licensedelectrician.com/Store/RT/Thomas_Wheeler.htm
Rack-a-tiers has a selection also

 

[Ponchik]

What sort of parameters are proposed in the software to account for all things not associated with turning the screws?

Is there any sort of minimum or average scope used as a basis? Is that to be added to a trip charge and minimum service fee?

At what point would a service call minimum be overtaken by itemization?

I would think there's not really any practical benefit in estimating time frames for service work items

For example:
Client calls with a receptacle that is broken. You will charge a minimum service call fee to go out and assess the situation. Then decide whether the circuit requires troubleshooting or it needs just a receptacle. Then provide a price for the cost of the labor to change the receptacle and the service call fee.
If the circuit requires troubleshooting then give them a price for that also a price to change the receptacle.

You can decide whether to charge the SC fee or not. On more extended service calls I will credit the SC fee to the total of the project.

 

[James L]

For example:
Client calls with a receptacle that is broken. You will charge a minimum service call fee to go out and assess the situation. Then decide whether the circuit requires troubleshooting or it needs just a receptacle. Then provide a price for the cost of the labor to change the receptacle and the service call fee.

For service work I have a trip charge, plus 1 hour minimum. After the first hour I charge in half hour increments.

I had a customer ask me to put that in plain English once, so I said it this way:

I charge $xx.xx to knock on the door, and another $xx.xx if you open it


That's why I was asking if the program is basing the 1/4 hour on a minimum scope, because my 1hour minimum would cover changing a recep. The last time I used an estimator was 2010, and I don't remember it having any sort of service work parameters.

I guess if the first hour charge only covered diagnostics, the 1/4 hour addition to change a receptacle could come in handy to add a few bucks. Over time, that could add up into a nice little surplus if a guy did enough service work.

Good food for thought.

 

[James L]

What do you use to mount the 250' coils?
How are they not twisted coming off the coils?

I haven't found a 250' roll/coil yet that the NM doesn't come out with loops and twists.
I usually pull off a generous amount and try to straighten it out as I walk back to either cut it off or pull more out.

I use fold-up stud reels like the pic that John 120/240 showed. I prefer them to the big saucer type, just because the fold-ups don't free spin. When I stop pulling, the reel stops.

The saucers free spin, and they'll dump 15-20 feet of wire in a tangle on the floor after I stop pulling.

But there's a certain method of wire management i employ. I don't like to have the reel in the room I'm working in. I find one spot that works for the entire floor, if possible. Then I walk the wire through stud bays and doorways to make an easy pull to where I'm working. I'll pull off 50 feet or so into my room and zig zag it across the floor so I can work it with no resistance from the reel.

Same thing could be done with spools, too. I just prefer 250' rolls because it works best for me. Partly because I don't like packing a thousand feet of wire up a flight of stairs, or trudging through mud with a big spool if it's raining.

I've also seen guys pull out of the middle of a roll, then try to yank a slinky through 3/4" holes. And others who use spools or reels and still make it looks like a slinky.

It's all in how it's managed, not the size of the roll or spool.

 

[jaylectricity]

I just install 14 receptacles and 4 switches at a leisurely pace in an hour the other day. Not including bringing in my tools and the devices. Also not including the plates.

What do you use to mount the 250' coils?
How are they not twisted coming off the coils?

I haven't found a 250' roll/coil yet that the NM doesn't come out with loops and twists.
I usually pull off a generous amount and try to straighten it out as I walk back to either cut it off or pull more out.

I usually just pull off how much I think I need. It's an estimate based on experience. Then I walk with it unraveling it hand over hand until I get to the end. Usually lays pretty flat. I guess it's just experience over time that helps.

Every time I thought of building myself a reel I figure I'll probably be done with the wiring by the time I build it. I do a lot of kitchens and additions, so I'm not usually roping a whole house or anything.