Recess Lighting Installation

[fishin' electrician]

I would think the hole saw will be ok since the sheetrock will hold the saw in place and prevent it from walking.

Legal or not, I've replaced the clips with screws when too close to a joist.

 

[LarryFine]

I have the Greenlee replaceable-blade 6-3/8" recessed-can hole saw. I've used it a lot on drywall and wood. They typical drywall hole takes about 10 seconds to make.

Using a 3' bit extension in the drill actually makes it more stable, the ceiling is easily reached from the floor, and it's less likely to walk the surface if you tilt it a bit.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I have the Greenlee replaceable-blade 6-3/8" recessed-can hole saw. I've used it a lot on drywall and wood. They typical drywall hole takes about 10 seconds to make.

Using a 3' bit extension in the drill actually makes it more stable, the ceiling is easily reached from the floor, and it's less likely to walk the surface if you tilt it a bit.

Are you talking about the one I posted that collects the dust, from Lowes?

 

[LarryFine]

Are you talking about the one I posted that collects the dust, from Lowes?

This one, with replaceable blades, and I have the grit-edged blade, too. The cup is open, so it's easy to put the pilot bit right on the mark.

​

We use clear plastic potted-plant water-catchers as dust collectors. They're cheap, durable, and easy to use. I cut a ceiling hole, tip the hole-saw into a trashcan or bag, bump the trigger, and everything falls right out.

 

[480sparky]

This one, with replaceable blades, and I have the grit-edged blade, too. The cup is open, so it's easy to put the pilot bit right on the mark..

There's two advantages to the carbide grit blades. The first is that they last longer. I've had the 6-3/8 grit blade for about 15 years now. The second is, it cuts in both directions, so the drill can be in 'forward' or 'reverse' and it cuts the same.

 

[wawireguy]

Maybe some kind of plunge router with a wood bit would work? Could always use a Sabre saw. Cut a hole with a hole saw. Feel around for wires and what not then use the Sabre saw. I'd wear a dust mask for this operation also.

 

[electrickangaroo]

i use a roto zip with a adjustment arm.... works perfect and you can use it for many other applications. not just for drywall. good for wood metal concrete and tile as long as you get the right bit...

 

[jimman]

Progress remodel cans don't use a clip, but rather a lever arrangement on a screw and a wing nut. I have used them in the past and they work fine. They give a better range for ceiling thickness. Check them out. The part number ia P187-TG for the 6" cans (P186--TG shallow can). I think they also have a better trim selection. Check out their website - progresslighting.com.

 

[jimport]

I have to second the vote for the Progress P187's. That slide bar arrangement is way easier than the clips.

 

[Chamuit]

Another issue is the thickness of the material and inserting the can. If you really have 1-1/2" depth on your material, the hole will have to be slightly wider so you can tilt the can as you insert it.

 

[LarryFine]

Another issue is the thickness of the material and inserting the can. If you really have 1-1/2" depth on your material, the hole will have to be slightly wider so you can tilt the can as you insert it.

True, but the top, or back, side of the wood can be undercut with a reciprocating saw to provide relief for the tilt.

That will keep one from having to find oversized trim rings, which poor drywalling can also create the need for.

 

[mcclary's electrical]

True, but the top, or back, side of the wood can be undercut with a reciprocating saw to provide relief for the tilt.

That will keep one from having to find oversized trim rings, which poor drywalling can also create the need for.

I have never bought an oversize trim ring. I put the trim on, if it covers, it covers, if it doesn't, it doesn't. Not my problem

 

[480sparky]

I have never bought an oversize trim ring. I put the trim on, if it covers, it covers, if it doesn't, it doesn't. Not my problem

Even if you cut the hole?

 

[mcclary's electrical]

Even if you cut the hole?

I've never bought an over size trim ring.

I use hole saws for holes. Not sawzalls.:grin:

 

[480sparky]

I've never bought an over size trim ring.

I use hole saws for holes. Not sawzalls.:grin:

So do I. But if I screw up, I do what is needed to correct the situation, not just say, "Oh well, not my problem."

 

[electricguy61]

I've installed over 100 recessed cans in Eichlers.

Typically, I use the remodel cans, utilizing a large hole saw on slow speed drill. I suggest drilling up from the bottom for 3/8" (just enough for the pilot to go through the roof), then drilling down from the top. This keeps the lower hole, which will be visible, from blowing out. Then I put 3 screws through the can into the wood.

Works like a charm.

 

[SeanKelly]

Almost 100% of the time we use carbide bits in the roto zip and then wood ones on all lathe and plaster. Nothing else comes close to cutting it cleanly and consistently IMO. As far as the cans, bend the brackets. Il typically run two screws throught the slotsin the side into the lathe also.

 

[mcclary's electrical]

So do I. But if I screw up, I do what is needed to correct the situation, not just say, "Oh well, not my problem."

IF,,,,,I ever screw up,,,,,,I'll be sure to fix it. You can bet that

 

[LarryFine]

IF,,,,,I ever screw up,,,,,,I'll be sure to fix it. You can bet that

Absolutely. We do our own drywall work.

Well, if I may say so myself.