Romex into the panel with conduit.

Status
Not open for further replies.
When replacing an electric panel it was customary for my trainers to install a piece of 2 inch conduit and feed all the romex through the top of the panel instead of using the half inch knockouts and putting individual wiring or pairs with the Romax connectors. Is it legal to stub a piece of 2 inch and feed all the wiring through that?
 
When replacing an electric panel it was customary for my trainers to install a piece of 2 inch conduit and feed all the romex through the top of the panel instead of using the half inch knockouts and putting individual wiring or pairs with the Romax connectors. Is it legal to stub a piece of 2 inch and feed all the wiring through that?

Probably not, unless they do all the math for derate…...
 
When replacing an electric panel it was customary for my trainers to install a piece of 2 inch conduit and feed all the romex through the top of the panel instead of using the half inch knockouts and putting individual wiring or pairs with the Romax connectors. Is it legal to stub a piece of 2 inch and feed all the wiring through that?
It can be done, there are conditions that apply, see 312.5(C) exception.
 
It can be done, there are conditions that apply, see 312.5(C) exception.

For starters the panel need to be surface mounted.

I agree. I will add a pic.

902ecmcqfig1.jpg
 
does a suspended ceiling count as a structural ceiling? Because that is where i saw a lot of this, in basements that suspended ceilings were put into so they could look finished.
 
thanks for the verification. Like the 60 percent fill on the diagram. In a perfect world we would have an onsite guide style book with all these Holt diagrams... just so we could see the code not just read it...
 
thanks for the verification. Like the 60 percent fill on the diagram. In a perfect world we would have an onsite guide style book with all these Holt diagrams... just so we could see the code not just read it...

No, it is better to use the diagrams to actually learn the code.

No one pic covers everything and a pic can contain an innocent error.
 
Pictures are helping me learn the code a bit easier, especially the ones like the article 100 definitions that show the different terms in relationship to each other, or the ones that tell me to refer to specific tables when calculating.. think I have a load of them on my laptop, along with the 2005 and 1980 something electrical codes... and three of the British codes as well..

loads to learn but, like Ham Radio, it is just learning the terms and learning to do the math fast enough for the tests... main thing seems to be getting used to flipping through the books to find the right info for the equations... so, will get there.

it is funny, as a handyman, thought all an electrician did was what they paid me to help them with and drink more coffee than me... pulling wire, stapling, drilling holes, placing the boxes... did not think about all the design stuff you guys had to learn...
 
When replacing an electric panel it was customary for my trainers to install a piece of 2 inch conduit and feed all the romex through the top of the panel instead of using the half inch knockouts and putting individual wiring or pairs with the Romex connectors. Is it legal to stub a piece of 2 inch and feed all the wiring through that?

A different suggestion, when it can work in a situation, instead of bunches of small romex connectors.

I don't do much residential work, but when I do, I try to avoid a bunch of small connectors in the panel ends.

I like to punch a few large knockouts, and use large cable tomic's, such as used with SE and SER cable.
It takes a little planning, grouping and layout of existing cables, to decide what size holes to punch where, to get everything to fit nicely into the panel.
I try to do the same for the sill plates if I'm replacing cables, slightly oversized holes makes fishing in another one later, a bit less onerous later if needed.

But, in order to do this, the cables must be fanned out after panel exit, to avoid de-rating them due to bundiling.
And any oversize holes in the sill plates need to be fire stopped properly.

This sample was a relocation. Many of the original cables were too short to reach. So EMT was installed to the attic, where properly sized junction/pull boxes could be located. Then THHN conductors could be spliced to the short cables.

The new cables were installed through a single large connector, and fanned out in the space to allow the cables to disperse any heating during use. Stud nailer's, were toe screwed, to the studs to allow for fastening the conduit and the fanned out cables.

This wall only had foam and aluminum siding on the exterior, so nothing there to attach the meter and service riser to. So in the bay to left of the service panel, vertical flat faced studs were added around the pluming vent, to support the meter can, and the bottom of the pipe service riser. Threaded rod, nuts and washers were used to attach the meter can, and slightly stand it off from the siding to prevent crushing it and the foam sheathing.

Passed inspection no problem, and has held the drop up, during many an ice storm here, without a problem.

In old building rehabs, sometimes you got to get a bit creative.

PanelRelocateTop.jpg

PanelRelocateBottom.jpg

This was the old panel, inside the kitchen cabinets.

ExistingPanel.jpg

Attic Splice Box

AtticSpliceBox.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice MT.

I like troffs , use a lot of 'em for upgrades where the basement is 'spaghetti'

GMSpoDc.jpg


does 312.5 C apply?

I usually pepper 2" pvc male ta's on top of the troffs , dux seal it all

~RJ~
 
The panel is flush mount. With the drywall currently exposed.

You cannot run the NM cables within a single sleeve into the panel unless it's surface mounted.

A different suggestion, when it can work in a situation, instead of bunches of small romex connectors.

I don't do much residential work, but when I do, I try to avoid a bunch of small connectors in the panel ends.

I like to punch a few large knockouts, and use large cable tomic's, such as used with SE and SER cable.

That is a violation because the connector is not listed for multiple NM cables.
 
That is a violation because the connector is not listed for multiple NM cables.

You might surprise yourself, if you actually took the time to look it up. Romex isn't really my thing, but the first brand I looked up, is listed for ten #12/2 NM, in a 1 1/4" connector. Never once had a inspector question it, but here seems to be a different story...so be it.
 
You might surprise yourself, if you actually took the time to look it up. Romex isn't really my thing, but the first brand I looked up, is listed for ten #12/2 NM, in a 1 1/4" connector. Never once had a inspector question it, but here seems to be a different story...so be it.

Which brand? Gotta a link?
 
You might surprise yourself, if you actually took the time to look it up. Romex isn't really my thing, but the first brand I looked up, is listed for ten #12/2 NM, in a 1 1/4" connector. Never once had a inspector question it, but here seems to be a different story...so be it.

I'll happily admit it if I'm wrong so let's see a link.
 
Nice MT.

I like troffs , use a lot of 'em for upgrades where the basement is 'spaghetti'

does 312.5 C apply?

I usually pepper 2" pvc male ta's on top of the troffs , dux seal it all

~RJ~

When using trough (wireways) to straighten out messes do you find that you can easily exceed the 30 CCC's at any cross section?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top