They are secured to the supply cableNEC 410.30(A) and 314.23(C) "Mounting in Finished Surfaces" require boxes to be secured to something.
So it's non-compliant to follow manufacturers' instructions?NEC 410.30(A) and 314.23(C) "Mounting in Finished Surfaces" require boxes to be secured to something.
Its a weird situation where manufacturers cannot overwrite the code.So it's non-compliant to follow manufacturers' instructions?
When I discussed it with my AHJ he stated 110.3(B) can add requirements to the code but not take them away.
On new work our AHJ says "junction boxes should be installed and grounded for 'rough-in' inspection".
and when questioned about 110.3(B) "the right thing to do would be to complain to UL as its a listing mistake".
Is it a junction box or a fixture wiring compartment?On new work our AHJ says "junction boxes should be installed and grounded for 'rough-in' inspection".
and when questioned about 110.3(B) "the right thing to do would be to complain to UL as its a listing mistake".
In new work I rough cable in with a little excess, make good notes to know where to cut holes later. wiring compartment and the lighting component come in same package and usually will not be there at rough in time. Sort of makes it a "cut in" at the time it is installed even though it is a new project. These lights possibly do not comply if you need a fire rating on the ceiling, since they are secured to drywall and not the framing.Is it a junction box or a fixture wiring compartment?
These lights are not (only) for new work. If using in new, I would attach the wiring compartment to the joist nearest the light location, and cut the hole at trim-out and plug it in. This presumes that future replacements will still be available with at least the same connector.
In existing work, I would never bother trying to attach such a box to anything.
I know, I haven't secured one as of yet that I can recall.Agreed, but we're discussing securing the connection box in such a situation.
I wouldn't bother. Just make sure the NM is secured to the box properly.
I have installed them in suspended ceiling once. Regardless of what code may allow my concern is eventual sagging of ceiling tile from weight of anything supported by the tile. The only time I did install them I did mount the connection/driver box to framing above, but it was just inches above in a dwelling basement. Plus I put a tie wire on the light apparatus itself to help keep it's weight from eventually sagging the tile.Not to pivot this thread but does anyone know if these fixtures can be installed in a 2x2 tile hung ceiling?
There are "rough in brackets" for Lithonia models and probably others, that probably would work for this purpose in suspended ceiling as well.I recall seeing a flat metal plate that attaches to the grid with a center hole to support the fixture but I cannot find it.
Not to pivot this thread but does anyone know if these fixtures can be installed in a 2x2 tile hung ceiling?
I've done that many times as well, and even attached tie wires to structural ceiling when necessary from that plywood somehow so the grid isn't bearing the weight.In the building complex I worked at all the ceiling tiles, we never put in these types of lights. But when we had anything of weight we would cut a piece of 1/2” plywood and put it on top of the tile
“ shoot low boys their riding shetland ponies”
I did a brand new house a year ago and used these lights for the whole basement in 2x2 tiles. I don't think the weight will be a problem since they're so light (pun not intended).Not to pivot this thread but does anyone know if these fixtures can be installed in a 2x2 tile hung ceiling?
I guess that some tiles are more robust than others so some may not sag. I'm wondering if using them that way is code complaint.I did a brand new house a year ago and used these lights for the whole basement in 2x2 tiles. I don't think the weight will be a problem since they're so light (pun not intended).