- Location
- Tennessee NEC:2017
- Occupation
- Semi-Retired Electrician
No, but the OP sais it was the service panel. But I didn't notice there were Two EGCs. Unless the one with the tape is the GEC.It cant be both...
No, but the OP sais it was the service panel. But I didn't notice there were Two EGCs. Unless the one with the tape is the GEC.It cant be both...
The wire with the yellow tape goes into a wireway and then into the meter enclosure. Both load centers are set up like this. I haven't opened the meter enclosure.Of course it does.
Why is there an incoming EGC (w/yellow tape)? (That's what said "sub-panel" to my mind.)
Where is the neutral-to-EGC bonding jumper? (Is that the purpose of the yellow-taped wire?)
In that case, the neutral should be connected to the wireway. There is no need for that wire.The wire with the yellow tape goes into a wireway and then into the meter enclosure. Both load centers are set up like this. I haven't opened the meter enclosure.
Well, right now, according to what you said, they're tied together in the meter enclosure.There's nothing visible to me linking the bar on the left to the one on the right. The right side has the green screw but I don't see where the GEC is tied to the neutral.
I think the lower small conductor is a GEC.No, but the OP sais it was the service panel. But I didn't notice there were Two EGCs. Unless the one with the tape is the GEC.
Just a trick, remember that AL is compact so fits in a one size smaller lug. I know that still leaves u one size too big in this case, but good to keep in mind.The load center in the shop is only rated for 2/0.
On that note, could #2 AL be used on a 100 amp breaker to a building if the load is 90 amps or less?4/0AL is rated 180 amp and allowed to be protected by a 200 amp breaker (provided the load is 180 or less).
It could if 90a wasn't a standard breaker rating.On that note, could #2 AL be used on a 100 amp breaker to a building if the load is 90 amps or less?
Do you not care for the polaris connectors? I'm not finding a small panel I can land 4/0 in.Rather than splicing and using Polaris connectors, I'd use a small outdoor panel and put in the breaker you need to go to the shop. Cleaner than Polaris connectors and now there's a small panel there to add other outdoor circuits.
The ser in the box is no good?The ser is in the box though...downstream.
Anyhow. Fix it.
I guess the gec path in the same ser conn isnt an issue actually. Just kinda odd it goes inside?
I digress.
The tap would be okay though? Assuming the voltage drop is good and it's unlikely they'd do any upgrades ( academically speaking). Tap in the box on the exterior wall and then run underground to the shop landing in a 100 amp breaker.In no particular order:
Less voltage drop.
Future upgrading.
Your following the discussion isnt good...The ser in the box is no good?
nevermind, I re-read the code book.The tap would be okay though? Assuming the voltage drop is good and it's unlikely they'd do any upgrades ( academically speaking). Tap in the box on the exterior wall and then run underground to the shop landing in a 100 amp breaker.
That's not helpful. Your posts weren't clear to me. Thanks though.Your following the discussion isnt good...
The Polaris connectors will cost you almost as much as a panel!Do you not care for the polaris connectors? I'm not finding a small panel I can land 4/0 in.