smaller main vs branch breaker

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Of course it does. 😊

Why is there an incoming EGC (w/yellow tape)? (That's what said "sub-panel" to my mind.)

Where is the neutral-to-EGC bonding jumper? (Is that the purpose of the yellow-taped wire?)
The wire with the yellow tape goes into a wireway and then into the meter enclosure. Both load centers are set up like this. I haven't opened the meter enclosure.

There's nothing visible to me linking the bar on the left to the one on the right. The right side has the green screw but I don't see where the GEC is tied to the neutral.
 
The wire with the yellow tape goes into a wireway and then into the meter enclosure. Both load centers are set up like this. I haven't opened the meter enclosure.
In that case, the neutral should be connected to the wireway. There is no need for that wire.

There's nothing visible to me linking the bar on the left to the one on the right. The right side has the green screw but I don't see where the GEC is tied to the neutral.
Well, right now, according to what you said, they're tied together in the meter enclosure.

Ideally, the yellow-taped wire should be pulled back and jumped to the panel's neutral bus.
 
So thats the first disconnect? You said meter... So the lines are tapped off of one meter?
And yes, the buss on the left is floating.
If it is a gec im not sure why it would be routed that way..
Then just switch the incoming grounded wires.
 
The ser is in the box though...downstream.
Anyhow. Fix it.
I guess the gec path in the same ser conn isnt an issue actually. Just kinda odd it goes inside?
I digress.
 
Are there any disconnects outside? That would answer why a 4-wire was ran to the panel.
I wonder if the OP's area allowed the GEC in the meter, and the electrician didn't understand that's all that is needed and ran from the meter to the panel? OP said the wire with the yellow came from the meter.
Not all POCOs allow the GEC in the meter, but some do. All but one here does and I prefer it. You just land the GEC in the meter and you're done! No jumpers from panel to panel, or grounding bus additions.
 
Rather than splicing and using Polaris connectors, I'd use a small outdoor panel and put in the breaker you need to go to the shop. Cleaner than Polaris connectors and now there's a small panel there to add other outdoor circuits.
 
4/0AL is rated 180 amp and allowed to be protected by a 200 amp breaker (provided the load is 180 or less).
On that note, could #2 AL be used on a 100 amp breaker to a building if the load is 90 amps or less?
 
Rather than splicing and using Polaris connectors, I'd use a small outdoor panel and put in the breaker you need to go to the shop. Cleaner than Polaris connectors and now there's a small panel there to add other outdoor circuits.
Do you not care for the polaris connectors? I'm not finding a small panel I can land 4/0 in.
 
In no particular order:

Less voltage drop.

Future upgrading.
The tap would be okay though? Assuming the voltage drop is good and it's unlikely they'd do any upgrades ( academically speaking). Tap in the box on the exterior wall and then run underground to the shop landing in a 100 amp breaker.
 
The tap would be okay though? Assuming the voltage drop is good and it's unlikely they'd do any upgrades ( academically speaking). Tap in the box on the exterior wall and then run underground to the shop landing in a 100 amp breaker.
nevermind, I re-read the code book.
 
Do you not care for the polaris connectors? I'm not finding a small panel I can land 4/0 in.
The Polaris connectors will cost you almost as much as a panel!

 
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