Solid wire and crimping

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I assume the Burndy & llsco crimps require one crimper with multile dies. Correct?
I searched their site and multiple crimpers came up. I got dizzy and just left.
Any link to one specific crimper will be appreciated. I have never owned a large crimper. So I dont know what I should look for.
 
are standard solid wire bolt lugs ok, then just bolt the two together vs looking for a butt crimp that you can put two solids in? butt is cleaner, but just asking.
 
ptonsparky said:
No, they must be continuous. 250.62(C)(1)
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250.64 perhaps ?? (2017 nec)

(C) 1-4 explains a few options as permitted methods, etc.

i would argue that bolting two lugs together fits into one of those ;)

i think "continuous" means electrical conductance continuous, and to get that there are a few ways. hence, twisting two wire ends together is not a good way.
 
LarrywdH said:
splice looks solid, bare wire looks like it almost burned in half!!
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right, so the other Q is, was that splice made before or after ;)
if after, why would you splice to that ???
 
FionaZuppa said:
care to explain
whatthe.jpg
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The bare #4 running to the Ufer was originally anchored (when the house was built) by putting Tapcons through the strands and screwing it to the block wall, 35 years ago. That's just some bent stranding and surface corrosion. No lightning, open neutral, or anything else scary or nefarious. Everyone settle down; I would have cut it back further if there was damage.


SceneryDriver
 
ptonsparky said:
Looks like a metal raceway enclosing an GEC that was not properly bonded to it at either end. Perhaps a shot of lightning at some time or another, proving a picture is worth a thousand words.

Personally, I would not bother with putting that type of splice in a box nor would it V.
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I put it in a box because it looks nicer, and it's my parents' house, so I care just that little bit more. :)


SceneryDriver
 
wouldnt that section of wire be considered "damaged" by the AHJ ??
 
SceneryDriver said:
The bare #4 running to the Ufer was originally anchored (when the house was built) by putting Tapcons through the strands and screwing it to the block wall, 35 years ago. That's just some bent stranding and surface corrosion. No lightning, open neutral, or anything else scary or nefarious. Everyone settle down; I would have cut it back further if there was damage.


SceneryDriver
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The spot on the box that looks like smoke along with the conductor condition is what raised a flag. We aren't there so we can only speculate.
 
al hildenbrand said:
T&B makes a line of C-Taps that are listed as Grounding and Bonding Equipment (suitable for splicing the GEC) that can be applied by T&B lever action crimpers. The T&B C-Tap #54720 will do two #6 solid copper conductors side-by-side. The #54720 is color coded "brown". The installation instructions are available Here.

I picked up the tool, used, on eBay.
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edward said:
I assume the Burndy & llsco crimps require one crimper with multile dies. Correct?
I searched their site and multiple crimpers came up. I got dizzy and just left.
Any link to one specific crimper will be appreciated. I have never owned a large crimper. So I dont know what I should look for.
Click to expand...
On the second page of the linked C-tap installation instructions you will see a collection of asterisked notes. The ** note is a list of the specific model number of tools approved by T&B to install T&B C-taps that are listed as Grounding and Bonding Equipment.

Out of those T&B tools I selected the TBM5S and the TBM25S because of the range of C-Taps that each could install. I am buying the tool for Grounding and Bonding Equipment first and foremost, and the range of conductor sizes I will need is really based upon my business history. So, for me, if I need to do a listed Grounding and Bonding Equipment irreversible splice on copper larger than #2, highly unlikely, I will rent or borrow.

My point is, start by committing to a listed Grounding and Bonding compression CONNECTOR, then get the installation instructions for the connector family and find the list of approved tools, then start shopping for the tools. It is a laborious circuitous route, but because of the way catalog advertising by the tool manufacturers lack information, its the only way to do it that I found.

I started by looking up T&Bs products on the UL Online Certifications Lookup, and in those results finding the Grounding and Bonding Equipment items and then identifying the model numbers of the C-taps. Then I was able to search for the installation instructions of the C-taps and find the models of tools to pick from.
 
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