Splicing service cable or feeders

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jksmith82

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PA
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Electrical Contractor
Hi All,
I have been reading up on splicing service cable and feeder cable. I was curious if the splices needed to be irreversible or not. The only wiring, I can find, that needed to be irreversible is the GEC. If you splice into it. So if I am reading the code correctly, you can use split bolts. 230.46 and the the articles it refers you to say nothing about irreversible splicing. Is this correct?

Thanks,
Jim
2014 NEC
 
jksmith82 said:
Hi All,
I have been reading up on splicing service cable and feeder cable. I was curious if the splices needed to be irreversible or not. The only wiring, I can find, that needed to be irreversible is the GEC. If you splice into it. So if I am reading the code correctly, you can use split bolts. 230.46 and the the articles it refers you to say nothing about irreversible splicing. Is this correct?

Thanks,
Jim
2014 NEC
Click to expand...
Yes. Any listed connector would be acceptable.
 
Thanks Electrofelon,
In the last 2 years I was told by inspectors that a feeder and services needed to be irreversible. The first time, I was installing a 30 amp sub-panel in a garage and needed to extend the wire. This time it was extending a service drip loop. I had posted a question about that not to long ago.
Thanks,
Jim
 
Split bolt connections are S..t when it comes to exterior connections that will allow any moisture at all to seep into the connection. Take it from me, as I’ve done enough of them in the past to know! If you get 10 years on that connection your doin good.
If you can’t get the power company to extend those conductors with a hydraulic crimp tool then at least try to get H-taps or Butt connectors and crimp tool from maybe your supplier. Not saying that even these fail just usually a better rate than split bolts.
And split bolts are expensive compared to a 50cent H-tap
 
I guess I’m old school. When I use a split bolt I tape it with rubber tape then use plus 33 tape. I’ve never seen one go bad in 33 or so years. I’m not saying your way is not better..... probably is better. I’ve just never done it that way.

Jim
 
jksmith82 said:
I guess I’m old school. When I use a split bolt I tape it with rubber tape then use plus 33 tape. I’ve never seen one go bad in 33 or so years. I’m not saying your way is not better..... probably is better. I’ve just never done it that way.

Jim
Click to expand...
Yeah I don't see any issue if it's taped up well. Look in a utility vault and it will often be completely filled with water and have taped connections.

I do like the set screw butt splices, I find them easier to use and tape up.
 
electrofelon said:
Yeah I don't see any issue if it's taped up well. Look in a utility vault and it will often be completely filled with water and have taped connections.

I do like the set screw butt splices, I find them easier to use and tape up.
Click to expand...
I see them taped a lot also. Don’t know why, you open the terminals up and they’re full of water.
we had problems a few years back with services that were spliced with barrel splices by one of our contractors. They were taped with electrical tape only. Water WILL get in. Then it freezes, pushing the wire out. This cycle repeats until the HO calls us and complains.
 
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Hv&Lv said:
I see them taped a lot also. Don’t know why, you open the terminals up and they’re full of water.
we had problems a few years back with services that were spliced with barrel splices by one of our contractors. They were taped with electrical tape only. Water WILL get in. Then it freezes, pushing the wire out. This cycle repeats until the HO calls us and complains.
Click to expand...
I've seen that happen with POCO-installed crimps at drip loops, too.
 
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