Splitting 230V and 115V on device entrance

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My point was the simple approach for residential. My field is industrial and particularly variable speed drives.
Still.... And? Did you think the OP was installing the 120/240 volt boiler in a UK residence? I'm just trying to figure out why you thought this thread about an American electrician installing an American boiler on the American electrical system was the place to talk about how simple UK residential circuits are.
 
Still.... And? Did you think the OP was installing the 120/240 volt boiler in a UK residence?
Why on earth would I suggest that?
This is my simple point:

"For UK and EU we have just 230Vac. It's simpler."
 
Why on earth would I suggest that?
This is my simple point:

"For UK and EU we have just 230Vac. It's simpler."
Yes, but WHY? Why are you speaking about that? How does it further this thread and edify the mostly American readers?
 
Yes, but WHY?
I think we can all agree its simple and easy to have '240V' appliances, the setup the OP is proposing could result in me having to pull a very large 4 wire SER cable to a 100A boiler when a two wire SE cable would do.

All the electric resistance heating systems (boilers / hydronic / forced air) I see are pretty much 208-240V with a 24V control transformer. Its not uncommon though to have a 120V circ pump for hydronic such as a grundfos but those are also available as a 200-240V. No need to drag a huge neutral for a tiny control circuit.

Why on earth would I suggest that?
This is my simple point:

"For UK and EU we have just 230Vac. It's simpler."
In the UK/ Ireland its not uncommon to see a 400V resistance electric boiler with a 230V pump so thats not entirely accurate either.
 
I think we can all agree its simple and easy to have '240V' appliances, the setup the OP is proposing could result in me having to pull a very large 4 wire SER cable to a 100A boiler when a two wire SE cable would do.

All the electric boilers / hydronic and even forced air heating systems I see are pretty much 208-240V with a 24V control transformer. Its not uncommon though to have a 120V circ pump for hydronic such as a grundfos but those are also available as a 200-240V. No need to drag a huge neutral for a tiny control circuit.


In the UK/ Ireland its not uncommon to see a 400V resistance electric boiler with a 230V pump so thats not entirely accurate either.
Of course, I agree that at this stage in our technology, there is no reason why an appliance would need 120/240 V. I just don't get why it matters what they do in the UK in this particular situation. Let me rephrase what he said in order to illustrate the relevancy:

OP: "Can I run a neutral in the circuit so I can power a 120 V apparatus?"

Besoeker3: "My grandmother makes decorative flower arrangements."
 
Yes, but WHY? Why are you speaking about that? How does it further this thread and edify the mostly American readers?


Because I made this simple point.

UK and EU we have just 230Vac. It's simpler.

But you don't seem to appreciate that.
 
Because I made this simple point.

UK and EU we have just 230Vac. It's simpler.

But you don't seem to appreciate that.
I do appreciate that it's simpler to have a single voltage. What I don't understand is how that applies at all to what the OP asked. There is nothing he can do about the equipment that's already in place nor is there anything he can do about the American electrical system that has existed for 120+ years. Having the knowledge of the UK system's simplicity does nothing for this installation.
 
One problem I see is if the boiler is on a 240 delta system the installer might want to balance the load on the delta by placing the Boiler pump power on the A&B or the C&B phases that do not have 120V to ground.
The presence of the neutral should alert any competent electrician.
 
The presence of the neutral should alert any competent electrician.
I am not worried about that, more it limits options for connection of the boiler.
A typical 24kw 240V boiler I could put on any two phases of a 240D bank.
So if my lighting pot is heavaly loaded with 120V loads I can put 240V HVAC on the stinger pot.
But add the little 1/2 HP 120V circ pump to the boiler circuit and now it all has to go on the lighting pot.
 
Really? About 300 million in the EU and UK get it correct - and simple compared to the USA.
It is useless for the guy with the boiler and to the other 300 million Americans who don't live in the UK. This is you:

OP: Can I run a neutral to get 120 V for this boiler?

Besoeker3: I like turtles.
 
UK and EU we have just 230Vac. It's simpler.
You have (or had) ring circuits, so not simple! :eek:

We just run a wire to where power is needed....(y)

120/240 is just to confuse the rest of the earth... It's simple to us. (y)

You probably think it is simple to drive on the left side of the road! Watch out for the Yanks at Heathrow in their rental cars. Or Brits at any airport here in the states.:ROFLMAO: Even Sweden switched in the 50s.

Simple is what one is used to. Change is not simple. That's the same with the English language. Which version?:unsure: Viva La Difference.(y)
 
If the techs can't or won't follow the rules and shut off power and thus work live, that is a major management and supervision failure and some of those heads should roll.
Ayup. That's usually what I say. We deal mostly with aquatic type farms. Simple is better. Their "electrical" guys are barely knowledgeable, and aren't truly electricians. Just another problem. I field a lot of phone calls. :)
 
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