Stove Receptacles need improved

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Cletis

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Is it just me or is hooking up a 6/3 SER or 8/3 NM to a recessed 50 amp stove outlet in a standard 2 gang wing box aggravating as hell ??? I think if they designed something with overlapping lay in lugs in the back it would be sleek and easy and there wouldn't be those aggravating 180 bends in wire while jamming them back on box.

Thoughts?
 
Many things are much more aggravating.

I find that using one of the corner rear knockouts for the cable, and rotating the receptacle gets the wire to spiral rather than having to fold it up.

You can also cheat by bending the mess out of the box fingers, and pushing the extra wire back into the wall.
 
peter d said:
Use a smart box or equivalent instead of an old work box. They have much more room and are square instead of beveled profile.
Click to expand...

There is that too. If I remember correctly, the conductor multiplier on 6-gauge wire is 5.0. that puts you right at the limit of 25 cubic inches of a old work-box.

Fortunately there is only one per house.
 
Carlon has a 2-gang box with a KO and cable clamp against the back of the box in the middle of the side away from the stud.
 
JFletcher said:
Is that right middle backside clamp rated for 6-gauge ser, or 8/3 Romex? Carlons website did not specify.

I've never noticed, because I've never used it since it is impossible (or a pain in the rear) to staple Romex within 12 in of the box coming through the side clamp.
Click to expand...
I suppose you could out in extra wood blocking to staple to?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
JFletcher said:
Is that right middle backside clamp rated for 6-gauge ser, or 8/3 Romex? Carlons website did not specify.

I've never noticed, because I've never used it since it is impossible (or a pain in the rear) to staple Romex within 12 in of the box coming through the side clamp.
Click to expand...

I've used #6 SER, #6 NM, & #8 NM
There is 14-1/2" between studs, the box is 4" so the side of the box is within 12" of the next stud, easy to staple/clamp, strap, etc.
Also not too bad securing it to the same stud and coming over/under and into the side.

ETA: Often I put the box on the bottom plate so the recep will be low. It's even easier to secure that way.
 
Little Bill said:
I've used #6 SER, #6 NM, & #8 NM
There is 14-1/2" between studs, the box is 4" so the side of the box is within 12" of the next stud, easy to staple/clamp, strap, etc.
Also not too bad securing it to the same stud and coming over/under and into the side.

ETA: Often I put the box on the bottom plate so the recep will be low. It's even easier to secure that way.
Click to expand...

True, however that requires putting a staple within an inch of the right turn the cable makes as it comes down the next stud. It's doable however I like to have a little more room to swing a hammer. You can also loop it around to the side of the box like you said.

The way I like to do it is to drill the top or bottom plate right at the stud with a nail biter bit to catch any stray nails, then drop the cable down and catch the knockout closest to the stud. Since I am coming in the corner, it is easier to get the aforementioned spiral fold rather than an 'S-fold'.

I try to avoid nailing up any scrap two-by-fours unless absolutely necessary, and prefer my wire runs as straight as possible, especially for larger cables that go to ranges and dryers and like.

Your way and my way both work, and are both code compliant. :)
 
JFletcher said:
Is that right middle backside clamp rated for 6-gauge ser, or 8/3 Romex? Carlons website did not specify.

I've never noticed, because I've never used it since it is impossible (or a pain in the rear) to staple Romex within 12 in of the box coming through the side clamp.
Click to expand...
I do it on next stud at same level.. seems to be within the 12 inches to me
 
Also, a point to consider.. the code says staple within 12 inches of box.. not 12 inches of wire... so could still put it above or below box and bend wire in... it would still comply with the code because first, it is stapled within 12 inches of box, and second, the cable is secured at the box... so cable is kept at a gentle bend by the two securing points. I always leave my internal clamp loose until I have everything attached and pushed in some, then tighten the clamp, leaves less wirein the box.
Not sure if code compliant but it works...
 
Better yet, why don’t the majority of wire manufacturers use a finer stranding for #6 nm-b? Heck most of the #6 THHN I get is usually a better stranding than that of what used in nm-b.
sure would fold up a lot easier.
 
I can't remember the last time we recessed a range receptacle. We always surface mount it but you have to make sure it is in the correct space.
 
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