Stranded Al to Solid Cu Splice

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dereckbc

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Plano, TX
OK before you bite my head off for the question; just remember I am an engineer, not an electrician and need your know-how.

Woke up this morning to a cold shower, burr. Checked the breaker, found it opened. Closed it, sparks flew, heard thud in hot water closet in a few feet away. Opened hot water closet could smell the bad news of something burnt. Had wife throw breaker in while I looked and listened for the fault. Smoke and fire flew from the junction box on wall.

OK so far an easy find. Opened the 4-inch junctione box and found the wire nut insulation burned up and touching the metal junction box. So far so good. Ok here is my dilemma on how to fix.

From the breaker panel it is wired with stranded #8 AL NM sheath 2-wire with ground. From the water heater it is wired with solid #10 CU NM sheath 2-wire with ground. What is the best way to splice a stranded #8 AL to solid #10 CU? The AL is much softer and about all I can make it do is wrap around the solid copper #10. I have the wire nuts made for Al/Cu but what technique do you guys suggest?
 
I'd go with small Cu/Al listed split bolts if you don't want to replace the homerun. Some rubber, glass tape, and ScotchCoat and you'll have a splice that will never come apart.
 
Thanks for the advice, not much of a fan of split bolts but it does give me an idea I should habe thought of before. Being in the telecom biz I know where to get my hands on a TBM-8 crimper and "H"-taps.

DIY, yuck-yuck-yuck :D
 
Dereck normally I would not help a DIY guy..... :lol:

The H-Taps may be a bit extreme. :)

I do understand your dislike of standard split bolts.

These dual rated splicer reducers are available at both the blue and orange box stores.

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Why not just put a $10.00 60A nonfuse pullout disconect. The wires will not touch each other and it is safer and code.
 
After I hit submit I was still thinking. You said the water heater was only a few feet away from the panel, then why not just run a new copper wire and be done with it. You may only need a 10/2, need to know wattages for sure.
 
Dereck, are you sure you can get an AL H-Tap for these wire sizes? I don?t think I have seen one that will accommodate smaller than #6 for the run.
 
curt swartz said:
Dereck, are you sure you can get an AL H-Tap for these wire sizes? I don?t think I have seen one that will accommodate smaller than #6 for the run.

I was wondering how much luck he will have fitting the tool in the box to crimp the tap.

Typical engineer :wink: they always have to re-invent the wheel.

:wink:

OK I have some unusual electrical in my own home as well.

10-8 MC from panel to attic as spares, a few hundred dollars of controls running a $40 attic fan, 10/2 to some 15 amp GP receptacles... :roll: :p :lol:
 
I have 10-2 MC on a 15A breaker for attic lights (derated for ambient), and 20' of 1 1/2 RMC above a cathedral ceiling for a subpanel...
 
OK, I knew I was going to take some flack, fair enough. :D So if you are interested I went down and got some 10-2 Cu and replaced the whole thing from breaker to water heater.

You should have heard my wife complaining the whole time about her having to crawl around on her belly in the attic after she had to mow the lawn :lol:

BOB, FWIW getting the tool in would have been no problem, so much slack plenty of room to pull the wire out and work. That is why I wasn't in a real hurry to replace with 10-2.
 
dereckbc said:
You should have heard my wife complaining the whole time about her having to crawl around on her belly in the attic after she had to mow the lawn :lol:

Well, hey, if she wants to take a hot shower . . .
 
Iwire wrote:

OK I have some unusual electrical in my own home as well.

10-8 MC from panel to attic as spares, a few hundred dollars of controls running a $40 attic fan, 10/2 to some 15 amp GP receptacles...

Well, I have a 70 amp single pole breaker in my house :twisted:
 
dlhoule said:
electrofelon:

Okay, I'll bite. What the he** is connected to this 70A breaker?
Really!!!

Actually, it's not difficult to make one from a 2-pole breaker, as long as it's not a single-body type like QO breakers are; just pop off the tie-handle and drill out the long rivets.

Save the little rectangular common-trip piece and the tie-handle in case you ever need to make a 2-pole from 2 single-poles, especially if you need a non-matching pair of poles.
 
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