stranded wire and devices

Status
Not open for further replies.
W

wire monk

Member
Is it against the code to wrap a stranded wire around the screw terminals on switches and recp's? If so please give me the code section.
 
I try to use fork or ring terminals when I can, but if I dont have any, I will just strip the wire and not pull it all the way off leaving part of the insulation over the end of the wire to hold the strands together, keeping them from fraying and slipping out from under the screw.
 
The UL Guide Information for "Receptacles for Plugs and Attachment Plugs" (RTRT) says:
Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back wired clamping types are suitable for use with both solid and stranded building wires.
Click to expand...
How ever the Guide information for "Snap Switches" (WJQR) says the following:
Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back-wired clamping types are suitable for use with solid building wires unless otherwise indicated either on the device or in the installation instructions.
Click to expand...
 
Why would anyone wrap stranded wire around a terminal screw when they make a backwired (BR15 or BR 20) receptacle for that very purpose?

Yes, I know, it's all about the $$, but seems to me buying a slightly more expensive receptacle outweighs the cost of labor for sta-kons or the somewhat tedious task of side wrapping stranded wire.
 
hardworkingstiff said:
Peter, what's a "BR15 or BR20" receptacle?
Click to expand...

A commercial grade receptacle, like a CR20, only instead of the regular terminal screws it has holes in the back, and it has screws on the side attached to a pressure plate.

So, you strip the wire to the strip gauge length, insert the wire into the back, tighen, done. No looping. They are great for stranded wire.

Also, they are nice because you can put two wires per terminal, and only have to tighten once screw. Once you use BR receptacles you wondered how you ever used regular CR's. The high end federal spec and hospital grade stuff like the 5362 models also have the backwire feature.
 
peter d said:
A commercial grade receptacle, like a CR20, only instead of the regular terminal screws it has holes in the back, and it has screws on the side attached to a pressure plate.

So, you strip the wire to the strip gauge length, insert the wire into the back, tighen, done. No looping. They are great for stranded wire.

Also, they are nice because you can put two wires per terminal, and only have to tighten once screw. Once you use BR receptacles you wondered how you ever used regular CR's. The high end federal spec and hospital grade stuff like the 5362 models also have the backwire feature.
Click to expand...

I know of what you speak, didn't associate those numbers with these devices.
 
mdshunk said:
I think they're Leviton numbers. I'm not even sure where I'd buy Leviton right now local, even if I wanted it. Home Depot, maybe. Everything around here is Trademaster or Hubbell.
Click to expand...

They are Leviton numbers. They are P&S numbers as well for the same product for some reason. :-?
 
Old trick that will help if you have to use stranded wire under a screw->

Rockyd04-21-2005, 12:36 AM
In the Electrician's Bible, years ago, the recommended way to place stranded wire under a binding screw is as follows. Strip wire to allow spinning the wire strands reverse to there natural lay. Twist wire in reverse of the lay. Use needle nose to make a 270 degree clock wise loop in the wire Stick wire under screw and tighten. The wire strands should pull in to make a neat and journeyman like jobThis was last read back in apprenticeship days (84-88), but still works if you don't have a sta-kon available.
Click to expand...

Or...

Rockyd04-21-2005, 12:36 AM
In the Electrician's Bible, years ago, the recommended way to place stranded wire under a binding screw is as follows. </font> <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Strip wire to allow spinning the wire strands reverse to there natural lay.</font> <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Twist wire in reverse of the lay.</font> <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Use needle nose to make a 270 degree clock wise loop in the wire.</font> <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Stick wire under screw and tighten.</font> <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The wire strands should pull in to make a neat and journeyman like job.</font><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
This was last read back in apprenticeship days (84-88), but still works if you don't have a sta-kon available.


Wow! What a memory!:)
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top