stranded wire to receptacle

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Solid wire is clearly superior when it comes to securing a ladder to the top of a service van or bundling yard waste.
 
FWIW, MA has an amendment which would require you to make the stranded conductors solid if terminating them on wire binding screws. So th question in the OP is not OK in MA.
 
j_erickson said:
FWIW, MA has an amendment which would require you to make the stranded conductors solid if terminating them on wire binding screws. So th question in the OP is not OK in MA.
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John the amendment says that "the terminals shall be identified for such use or the strands at the terminal shall be made solid"

I was under the impression that the terminals on receptacles were listed for stranded wire connections. What does this all mean??
 
Bottom line is that you just need to do the best installation possible and one that you are happy with. For me personally, I always use Stakons on stranded wire for my connections to devices. Maybe it costs a few cents more here and there, but in my mind it is the best possible installation and insures a solid connection not to mention a very clean and neat appearance. IF crimp terminals are not available, I would go the route that was mentioned here earlier about using soild wire for a pigtail.
 
LarryFine said:
I have found that I can keep the strands under the head of a terminal screw while tightening by pinching the loop closed tightly with the tips of a pair of needle-nosed pliers.

I do the same thing with even solid wire when tightening, for example, a grounding screw in a metal device or fan box, or a metallic enclosure or fixture housing. Try it! :smile:
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Wow you guys really struggle with the stranded conductors.
I was in the trade for over ten years when I first encountered solid wire. I guess you dont have a choice if its romex.
I have my supply house keep Stranded MC cable on hand for us.

Terminating a device is very easy. Just start your strippers into the wire about an inch and a quarter from the end, then pull about 3/4" off to expose the conductor, DO NOT TWIST THE WIRE. Place the conductor under the screwhead on the device clockwise and tighten the screw up to the manufacturers specifications.

I get many more bad splice and burned outlet calls from solid wire than stranded. Seems like solid wire gets loose under the screw when they are pushed into the junction box.
Around here rolls of solid wire is 25 to 30% cheaper per roll.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
And you have to keep the plate screws in a vertical position. :wink:
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If you mount the receptacle horizontally, do the screws also go horizontal or should they still be vertical? (I'm not actually mounting a receptacle, so this won't count as DIY advice.)
 
Mike03a3 said:
If you mount the receptacle horizontally, do the screws also go horizontal or should they still be vertical? (I'm not actually mounting a receptacle, so this won't count as DIY advice.)
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Personally, I would still make them vertical. Make sure to run a plumb line next to it to be sure though ;)
 
electricmanscott said:
John the amendment says that "the terminals shall be identified for such use or the strands at the terminal shall be made solid"

I was under the impression that the terminals on receptacles were listed for stranded wire connections. What does this all mean??
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The amendment reads in full:

110.14(A) Delete the last sentence of the first paragraph and insert the following 2 sentences in it's place:

Connection by means of wire binding screws or studs and nuts having upturned lugs or equivalent shall be permitted for 10 AWG or smaller solid conductors. Where stranded conductors are terminated on and not looped through such terminals, the terminals shall be identified for such use, or the strands at the terminals shall be made solid.

So I guess you are right, as long as the terminals are listed for stranded, all is OK. My bad.

I know you know what the amendment says, I included it for those from other areas.
 
racerdave3 said:
I always use Stakons on stranded wire for my connections to devices. Maybe it costs a few cents more here and there, but in my mind it is the best possible installation and insures a solid connection
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Each stakon you install adds another possible point of failure.

But if you feel it's better to look good Stak-ons are the way to go. :wink:
 
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iwire said:
Each stakon you install adds another possible point of failure.

But if you feel it's better to look good Stak-ons are the way to go. :wink:
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Well if the Stakons are properly installed it does not add another point of failure, at least not anymore chance of failure than a loose connection do to a sloppy stranded wire connection. In my book, an installation is required to be safe first and done in a neat and workmanlike manner next. With the stakons, you can kill 2 birds with one stone!
 
Just say no to solid wire..I need to figure out how to put solid in circle with line through it..the only solid I use is NM wire otherwise I use stranded on every thing That is in a pipe..terminateing is not a problem there are several types you can do..You can strip an inch twist it and put your striper back on wire and cut 1/4 inch and slide it just a Little shy of the end of the strip and fold around screw..you can use stak on fork terminals..you can by pre-made pig tails with factory crimp on them in white, black and green..Ideal sells them..you can buy back wire devices..So your options are many and when you have to work them in box or pull more wires in conduit you can with out fighting that nasty solid junk..
 
cschmid said:
Just say no to solid wire..I need to figure out how to put solid in circle with line through it..the only solid I use is NM wire otherwise I use stranded on every thing That is in a pipe..terminateing is not a problem there are several types you can do..You can strip an inch twist it and put your striper back on wire and cut 1/4 inch and slide it just a Little shy of the end of the strip and fold around screw..you can use stak on fork terminals..you can by pre-made pig tails with factory crimp on them in white, black and green..Ideal sells them..you can buy back wire devices..So your options are many and when you have to work them in box or pull more wires in conduit you can with out fighting that nasty solid junk..
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I agree. I would not use solid wire unless I had no other choice.
 
LLSolutions said:
I'm not a huge fan of it, but it's acceptable per NEC, when it comes up i leave the last bit of insulation at the end to keep it from becoming frayed.
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I used to have a guy who swore by left-hand twisting, but I'm hpelessly right-handed.

Personally, I just pinch the loop shut with needle-nose pliers while tightening the screw.
 
LarryFine said:
I used to have a guy who swore by left-hand twisting, but I'm hpelessly right-handed.

Personally, I just pinch the loop shut with needle-nose pliers while tightening the screw.
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I first learned about that idea a few years ago, and it does work well. Twist the strands up counter-clockwise. They tend to get more compact rather than splay all out when you tighten the screw. I really hate to put strands around a screw terminal anyhow, but sometimes you do what you gotta do.
 
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