It’s likely that Wagos use a better (or at least stronger) design. Their DIN rail cage clamp connectors, although admittedly not the same design as the stab-ins, are killer. So, when I saw Wagos at a trade show many years ago I immediately tried them and was quite satisfied. I haven’t seen any failures yet. They also seem to grip better than the Ideals (everybody seems to be jumping on the bandwagon) but I do like the fact tha the Ideals are flat which helps the inevitable space issue.
I came upon this page looking for a discussion of torque requirements because I have a couple of concerns. When wearing my mechanic’s hat, I’m all about tightening bolts to the proper torque. I have four torque wrenches ranging from 20 in-lbs. to 250 ft-lbs. and it looks like I’ll be getting a torque screwdriver soon. However, when torquing loose lugs in a panel I’ve had them start turning and had to hold them still with pliers, etc. Also, when attempting to torque some larger junction blocks, I’ve had the hex wrench start to turn and strip the aluminum allen screw way before approaching the correct torque. For that job, I think I went and got some harder material screws. In general, it also seems difficult to tighten flat blade screws so if we have to start torquing everything I’d appreciate if UL would revise equipment listings to eliminate flat blade screws.
But, my main concern could possibly be answered by someone who had some experience torquing residential receptacles and circuit breakers. I’ve always done these by feel. When torqued to specs do the screws seem “tight enough”? My fear is that, having torqued them down I might thing they’re too loose if I tested them with a screwdriver.
Thanks,
jvf