Two panels off one meter in condo

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If it's not a simple "ok" to tap the existing feed, I will go down the road of using the main panel and reimbursing the HOA for usage.

Much better way to go.

Ask the electrician if he can install a check watt hour meter to measure the actual power you are using.
 
Yeah they definitely don't want metered and unmetered wires together. I had a call years ago with the utility and property owner for theft of service. Meter bank just like that. One tenant meter was shut off, so someone paralleled #12's from one breaker to theirs. Free electricity:) Well, not free to the other guy.
30+ years ago the family lived up in a double. One night breakers starting tripping. Old house...no AC. After the Third trip to the Basement I started looking around. Found 3 different zip cords daisy chained from our washer recep across the Basement and up a common cold air duct. Excuses from my neighbor about mistake with payment and they just wanted to keep the fish tank running.
Called the power company and was told they were disconnect for non-payment....proceeded to rip all the cords out and cut into pieces and put them on the floor at their back door.
Next day, I noticed he had placed alligator clip type jumpers across the jaws.
Don’t ask why half the lights and the washer were on the same circuit.
 
Double tapping the load side of the meter for a 50A sub would work too, no ??

Isn't that what I've been asking is possible?

I'm not clear on whether or not the load calculations necessary depend on the feeder going to the meter, or the breaker set in the apartment itself, or the actual load of the items in the apartment.

Thanks!
 
I will post the same picture here of the panel. So the consensus is that even though when I turn on all appliances I measure only 50 amp load, the panel is "full" and cannot spare a 50 amp feeder, correct?

Thanks for all the input everyone, I really appreciate it.

http://i63.tinypic.com/307vkw2.jpg

Only thing NEC recognizes is load calculations from art 220, you will almost never go into a dwelling and clamp on an ammeter and read higher then properly done NEC calculations - they are fairly conservative in the direction of avoiding overloading. You can use demand history however, instead of calculations, but that is based off peak demand recorded over at least 30 days and not just a few minutes of turning everything on and see what it draws. Thing is even if you have electric heat, water heating, etc. you might be surprised to see how low the actual peak demand typically is. Heating and AC is about only things in a dwelling that run a lot, everything else is only short demand periods or a pretty light load to begin with.

If it's not a simple "ok" to tap the existing feed, I will go down the road of using the main panel and reimbursing the HOA for usage. I was asking this question here originally because it would be much easier politically to use my own meter, if possible. I also asked because I received conflicting info from multiple electricians, all with the same certainty.

It seems the answer here is that is in fact not possible to use my meter.

And also for my charging station, it will use 208v @ 40amp with a 50 amp breaker.

Thanks!

Double tapping the load side of the meter for a 50A sub would work too, no ??

Isn't that what I've been asking is possible?

I'm not clear on whether or not the load calculations necessary depend on the feeder going to the meter, or the breaker set in the apartment itself, or the actual load of the items in the apartment.

Thanks!
Tapping the feeder to your dwelling is very doable NEC wise. Tapping right at the meter center you do need to consider that the breaker is going to only be rated for one conductor per lug to land at it - so you will be making that tap in some other device and not in the breaker lugs if you want to do it properly. Another consideration is whether the wireways of the meter center have room for your added conductors and/or any tap devices. NEC does have rules on how full you can fill those spaces with conductors.

Whether you can do this yourself or you must have a licensed professional do it is up to local laws, though many will probably require a licensed professsional in other then a single family dwelling structure, and in such single family structures only the owner that actually occupies the dwelling is allowed to do wiring within it seems to be fairly common rules.
 
You need to do a load calculation first. Get an ec to do that and see if you can do it. Looks like you have electric baseboard heat. You may have enough power but I doubt we can give you a difinitive answer here.
 
The charger is a Tesla HPWC. It can run at 208V.

Do you know the data name plate, FLA, watts, VA, rating at 208V for the charger? When charger is connected to the car, charging the batteries, how long does it take to full charge the batteries? More than 3 hours? When is the charging taking place? Anytime the car is parked in its' parking space? At the end of the day? Other?

EDIT:
mk23169 said:
Post #19
And also for my charging station, it will use 208v @ 40amp with a 50 amp breaker.

Is that the actual FLA for the charger? 40 amp @ 208V?
 
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Do you know the data name plate, FLA, watts, VA, rating at 208V for the charger? When charger is connected to the car, charging the batteries, how long does it take to full charge the batteries? More than 3 hours? When is the charging taking place? Anytime the car is parked in its' parking space? At the end of the day? Other?

EDIT:
mk23169 said:
Post #19
And also for my charging station, it will use 208v @ 40amp with a 50 amp breaker.

Is that the actual FLA for the charger? 40 amp @ 208V?

The charger is has a load selector so I can be programmed depending on the circuit is connected to.

If the load calculation shows I can only spare 40 Amp it will charge at 32A, if I can spare 50 amp it will charge at 40 and so on.

Does that answer your question?

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...nstallation_manual_80A_en_US.pdf?201612081439
 
The charger is has a load selector so I can be programmed depending on the circuit is connected to.

If the load calculation shows I can only spare 40 Amp it will charge at 32A, if I can spare 50 amp it will charge at 40 and so on.

Does that answer your question?

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...nstallation_manual_80A_en_US.pdf?201612081439

How long does it take, on average, to full charge the batteries?

Any certain time of the day do you use the charger?
 
Here is a product that I have wanted to try for this specific situation but haven’t had a chance to yet.

https://youtu.be/eWm7rfxQZyc

It’s specifically for condos... the 100 amp service goes through this unit and then back.. the unit monitors the amount of power being used and allows you to charge your EV safely and within your existing service.
 
Here is a product that I have wanted to try for this specific situation but haven’t had a chance to yet.

https://youtu.be/eWm7rfxQZyc

It’s specifically for condos... the 100 amp service goes through this unit and then back.. the unit monitors the amount of power being used and allows you to charge your EV safely and within your existing service.

This is incredible, I think you've found exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you!

I'll research the product tomorrow and report back.

http://dcc.technology/condo/
 
That's a nice unit but the OP's job doesn't appear to be that clean. Why are they showing the coated mc cable? Is there a jbox somewhere? When I watched it I assumed they cut the mc and it was long enough to enter both ends into the box, that's why you could ceiling mount also. Don't know what they did with what looks like the raintight mc.
 
We understand how it's wired and what you show is just to illustrate that. In a real installation it would be very unusual to find enough slack in the existing feeder to be able to do it that way. In all likelihood, the EC will have to remove the feeder from the meter stack and replace it with a long enough cable to reach your unit. Hopefully your unit can be located within a distance where the original feeder will reach it, otherwise that will have to be spliced requiring yet another box to be mounted somewhere. In my experience meter rooms are rarely that neat and uncluttered.

Also, knowing what I know of condo boards, it would take an act of Congress to get them to allow something like that, no less "personal" EV charging stations. If they allow one person to do it they have to allow everybody to do it. Then how do you get the wiring out to each parking space?

-Hal
 
We understand how it's wired and what you show is just to illustrate that. In a real installation it would be very unusual to find enough slack in the existing feeder to be able to do it that way. In all likelihood, the EC will have to remove the feeder from the meter stack and replace it with a long enough cable to reach your unit. Hopefully your unit can be located within a distance where the original feeder will reach it, otherwise that will have to be spliced requiring yet another box to be mounted somewhere. In my experience meter rooms are rarely that neat and uncluttered.

Also, knowing what I know of condo boards, it would take an act of Congress to get them to allow something like that, no less "personal" EV charging stations. If they allow one person to do it they have to allow everybody to do it. Then how do you get the wiring out to each parking space?

-Hal
Ditto to all that. Can't even see his feeders, maybe in the wall. The OP hasn't answered any questions about the board or getting to where it will be located. Maybe he's on the condo board:D
 
... Maybe he's on the condo board:D

I've seen board members run out of town on a rail for pulling stuff like that. People who own condos aren't warm and fuzzy about how their board runs the place and spends their common charges to begin with. Fist fights have ensued and police had to be called to some board meetings of condos I have dealt with. :bye:

-Hal
 
In a real installation, you'd run new feeder wire to and from the unit and Polaris the output to the existing feeder inside the meter stack or possibly another j-box.
 
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