UL & Associated Certifications- is it necessary in this case?

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Making progress big grasshopper?

Making progress big grasshopper?

Is a USB cord attached to a 7W .75w LED night light bulb, plugged into a wall adapter which accepts a USB cord a "safe" alternative? Would it need to be listed? Could I possibly get liability insurance absent the certification?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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RomanyCaravan said:
Is a USB cord attached to a 7W .75w LED night light bulb, plugged into a wall adapter which accepts a USB cord a "safe" alternative? Would it need to be listed? Could I possibly get liability insurance absent the certification?

Thanks,
Mark
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I would ask your insurance company. They might have some ideas on dealing with getting a listing too as they have a vested interest in reducing their risk.
 
hbiss said:
A big trend right now seems to be "artists" making lamps and fixtures out of pipe fittings. I see this as no different. That said, I don't think I would want to have my name on anything that caused someone to be shocked or injured because of the design. It might not be apparent to you, but zip cord can be damaged or that bulb could break (just as a for instance) causing the metallic box to become energized. That's some of the things UL looks for when you submit the product for approval. It's why it was suggested to use a low voltage wall wart with a LV line cord and a LV LED lamp.

You might think you have a great product until someone sues you and if that happens a UL or other NRTL listing will go a long way.

-Hal
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Amen Hal. Thanks!
 
Jraef said:
Bingo, that's exactly the issue. The NEC is not a concern if not part of premise wiring, your product is more like an appliance. Any one of us can make a one-off lamp for our own use at our own risk. Where you get in trouble is when you commercialize something. Once you sell it for a profit, you incur responsibilities for its use and the safety of users. That's what UL listing is about to a certain extent.

I stumbled across that zip-cord lamp on a crafting site and it says "UL rated". You need to understand that this is often a clue as to it being fraudulent or at least suspicious, because UL uses VERY specific terms with specific meanings and I don't think "rated" is one of them. It's a trick used by unscrupulous suppliers to sell their products to unwary consumers.
http://www.ul.com/marks/ul-listing-...ing-guidelines/specific-guidelines-and-rules/
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THank you, valuable link here!

Best,
Mark
 
Jraef said:
As I understand it, devices operating behind a Class 2 power supply, meaning it is by definition limited to under 50V and under 100W, are not required to be listed. The power supply ITSELF must be, because it plugs into the 120V power source. But on the load side, in this case 5VDC if using a USB plug, there is insufficient energy to run a high risk of fire or injury. It would be just like your cell phone; the wall wart you plug it into is UL listed, but the phone itself is not, doesn't need to be.

On your old version, the 120V power went right up into your device, which raised the concerns that Bob outlined very well. I hadn't thought of the holes allowing access to little fingers, so that's another thing that would have made that version untenable.

Mind you, none of us are lawyers, so if commercializing this, assuming you have business insurance, I suggest that you run this by your insurance underwriter. If you are not a business with business insurance, you must like living on the edge of disaster, because one fire or injury could cost you all of your net worth in one fell swoop.
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"It would be just like your cell phone; the wall wart you plug it into is UL listed, but the phone itself is not, doesn't need to be. "

I understand and agree.. This makes sense to me. Not just because it involves less hassle for us!
 
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