Vacancy Sensor Box Support

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mstrlucky74

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Curious if you have box in the middle of a ceiling tile would you, most often, use a T-bar box support to support the 4" box?
 

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Curious if you have box in the middle of a ceiling tile would you, most often, use a T-bar box support to support the 4" box?

Hey mstrlucky, I just installed such a sensor last week and used Caddy's T-bar support, the best way to go if you ask me. The main reason I'm writing is because I used a standard 1.5" deep octagon, but when I went to install the sensor it bottomed out on the internal bx clamps, what the??? I then read the directions and it says you need to use an extension ring on a 1.5" octagon, doh! I had to make another trip back to finish the job, so just a heads up on that.
 
I learned to like 4s boxes and plaster rings (3/4" depth if I remember right) instead of Oct boxes, due to how the box and plaster ring helped hold the ceiling tile in place. Without the right combination of equipment and an Oct box, the device can pull up on the tile, or not allow the screws to be tightened securely as they should be. Many years since I've done commercial work, but that was my experience.
 
Hey mstrlucky, I just installed such a sensor last week and used Caddy's T-bar support, the best way to go if you ask me. The main reason I'm writing is because I used a standard 1.5" deep octagon, but when I went to install the sensor it bottomed out on the internal bx clamps, what the??? I then read the directions and it says you need to use an extension ring on a 1.5" octagon, doh! I had to make another trip back to finish the job, so just a heads up on that.
Extension ring. It a plaster ring?? Wouldn't an extension ring bring it out past the tile too far?
 
Are these LV sensors? Aren't they're so light weight that they're typically attached directly to the tile with the need for a box?
 
I use drop anchor in the ceiling, a single 1/4'' threaded rod and two 1/4 -20 nuts at the box. Milwaukee sd drill . The whole rig weights 10 times more than the device.........


I do the same for most all boxes on commercial. I set up a tripod chain vise on the job on day one and use it for all rod cuts and emt cutting. Ream the emt while it is locked in the vice. Saves me a ton of time and bending over.
 
Are these LV sensors? Aren't they're so light weight that they're typically attached directly to the tile with the need for a box?

Yes they usually have a threaded nipple off the top with a lock ring to hold it on the tile. Only time I use boxes is in a hard ceiling.


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Yes, they are. Not sure about not needing a box?

I've never installed a LV sensor that required a box because they utilize Class 2 control. Typically just an 18/3 cable from the sensor to the control unit. Sometimes the sensor has a long threaded shaft with teeth on the end that can cut right through the tile.
 
I learned to like 4s boxes and plaster rings (3/4" depth if I remember right) instead of Oct boxes, due to how the box and plaster ring helped hold the ceiling tile in place. Without the right combination of equipment and an Oct box, the device can pull up on the tile, or not allow the screws to be tightened securely as they should be. Many years since I've done commercial work, but that was my experience.

That's a good tip, thanks!

Extension ring. It a plaster ring?? Wouldn't an extension ring bring it out past the tile too far?

1.5" Extension ring. The ceiling tile was actually warped, I trimmed the lower half of the t-bar bracket's "Leg" in order to bring the octagon down to meet the tile. When I realized I needed to use the extension ring I had to raise the bracket back up by repurposing a fixture bar and some self tapers ;)

Are these LV sensors? Aren't they're so light weight that they're typically attached directly to the tile with the need for a box?

The one I used was 120-347vac

https://www.amazon.com/Wattstopper-Ceiling-UT-355-1-Occupancy-Detector/dp/B0085SHZ3E
 
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