Wagos vs Wire nuts

[synchro]

... The main thing is that, as I make every joint or termination, I mentally say "this connection will not be the one that fails."

Ahh .. the secret incantation.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

I will use those back stab connectors that the manufacturer supplies with their light fixtures but I can't get myself to use them for pig tails in receptacle and switch boxes etc.

I don't have issues with splicing solid and stranded wires together.

 

[kwired]

I will use those back stab connectors that the manufacturer supplies with their light fixtures but I can't get myself to use them for pig tails in receptacle and switch boxes etc.

Your reason?

If you have a long series of lights in one circuit, the first light in the series is carrying the current of all of them in the connection, just like the connection in the switch box is.

 

[SparkyTrev]

Both. I keep both style with me for work. Most usually I use tan and orange wire nuts for all the residential....until I run across a box thats been renovated a handful of times and has only a fart of wire left inside to work with. Pushing a wago nut on to the conductors makes fixing those much easier.

 

[Little Bill]

I will use those back stab connectors that the manufacturer supplies with their light fixtures but I can't get myself to use them for pig tails in receptacle and switch boxes etc.

I don't have issues with splicing solid and stranded wires together.

Back stab refers to a connection hole in the back of a device such as a receptacle or switch. We are talking about a wire connector, which is not a back stab.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Listen, I try not to write novels on these posts.
When I first saw them in light fixtures I would cut them off and throw them away.
If I were to install a string (long series)of light fixtures in a commercial or residence that I thought would be a burden on that more inferior connection I would cut them off and wire it them. If is just 6-10 I'll take my chances.
I figure the fault will be easier to find on the load side of the switch.

Well I guess you'll have to define the front back left and right sides for me. When I make the connections I face the the "tip, front" what ever you want to call it away from me there for I calls it a "back-stab"
These are my opinions. Thanks for listening

 

[mbrooke]

Listen, I try not to write novels on these posts.
When I first saw them in light fixtures I would cut them off and throw them away.
If I were to install a string (long series)of light fixtures in a commercial or residence that I thought would be a burden on that more inferior connection I would cut them off and wire it them. If is just 6-10 I'll take my chances.
I figure the fault will be easier to find on the load side of the switch.

Well I guess you'll have to define the front back left and right sides for me. When I make the connections I face the the "tip, front" what ever you want to call it away from me there for I calls it a "back-stab"
These are my opinions. Thanks for listening

IMO, not a backstab at least a "secure" backstab is we can call it that. And trust me, I'd give a whole lot to this world to see backstabbed outlets and mobile home bite dings outlawed.

 

[mlnk]

Wago are listed by UL for copper wire. The lever type are obviously superior. As far as I can tell, the lever type are designed for use with Aluminum wire, with ,the Wago de-ox in Germany, especially in former East Germany But are not listed by UL for use with aluminum in the US

 

[hillbilly1]

:happyno:
They are far from a back stab, here's why...
I have dissected them and there is a lot more clamping area on the Wago vs a back stab connection
The Wago spring clamp is a lot stronger than a back stab
On a back stab, (mostly on receptacles) the wire is subject to move every time something gets plugged in & unplugged, after a while this will loosen the connection and it will either pull out or heat up from high resistance.

With a Wago, the connection is not on the receptacle. You wrap the wire around the screw, or in a pressure clamp just like normal. When you plug/unplug something you are not disturbing the wire where it enters the Wago. So you can push/pull all you want on the plug and it won't affect the connection in the Wago. That's unlike what happens with a back stab, as you are pushing/pulling on the receptacle and the wire connection is directly on the receptacle.

Only failure I've seen with a Wago was "operator failure". And that was my install. Luckily I caught it when I energized the circuit. I just didn't have it pushed all the way in. I've been using them for nearly 10 years and no problems other than my mistake.

Note: Wago is a brand and there are other good mfg of them such as Ideal Push-ins, FPR (Gardner Bender).

I have found a new toy that I like even better than the push-in connectors. It is "Lever nuts" made by Wago. You raise a lever and insert the wire, then push the lever back down. You can feel the strength of the spring when you pull the lever up. They are especially handy when on a ladder trying to hang a light. Sometimes its difficult to hold the light and put a wire nut on the wires. With the Lever nuts, you can use one hand to both insert the wire and push the lever back down. It's best to raise the lever before going up the ladder or before you attempt to hold the light to connect the wires. Then all you have to do is insert the wire and push the lever down.

Onan uses those on their residential generators instead of a terminal block. Wires are tagged and hanging loose in the enclosure. With the enclosures being as tight as they are, I can see the reason they use them.

 

[Phillip Land]

Ideal Push-in connectors has a 6-port push-in. Wago Lever nut has a 5-port. They may have a 6, but not for sure, they do have a 5 because I have some.

I like the push in wire connectors and have used several brands. Lately I've been using NSI that's what my supply house has. I still only use them for lighting and lighter loads - I'm still a little skeptical about receptacle loads.
I keep 2-port through 8-port in my service case

 

[Fred B]

I will use those back stab connectors that the manufacturer supplies with their light fixtures but I can't get myself to use them for pig tails in receptacle and switch boxes etc.

I don't have issues with splicing solid and stranded wires together.

Have anyone seen or used these for splice: seems might be useful when not enough wire left and wall treatments made the receptacle or switch out to far to terminate onto anymore.

IDEAL Spliceline 42 Orange In-Line Push-In Butt Splices (10-Pack) 30-1342S - The Home Depot

Get the perfect solution of joining and insulating two wires together by using this Spliceline Orange In-Line Push-In Butt Splices from Ideal.

www.homedepot.com

I've used the wago levernuts for lighting fixtures or splice solid to stranded. Always worked good, can yank on them pretty hard and they dont pull out.

 

[MiElectrician]

I'm not to the point of trusting wagos yet, but they are listed for 105 degrees, and that gets us one step closer to utilizing the 90 degree conductor we have available. I tried some of the lever wagos on solid and didn't like it at all.

 

[Ponchik]

I prefer wire nuts and have been using these for years. IMO, works much better than the ideal and other US manufactured wire nuts.




I only use WAGO during repair work and only when I can not get my fingers inside the box to make a good connection on short circuit conductors.