Water heater timer wiring

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mbrooke said:
:roll:

And that just keeps home inspectors ignorant on proper electrical inspections. They may have there own forums but a lot of them are lacking professional electricians and code experts. I see a lot of defects get missed as a result and a lot of wrong conclusions.


As far as Im concerned HI are allowed by the rules to post here and should be able too. Keeping them away does nothing to help anyone, all it does is open the door of electrical dangers getting missed. And it opens up HI to lawsuits.


This forum is gold and the best place to learn electrical code regardless of being a contractor, electrical inspector, lineman, master electrician, home inspector, testing specialist, ect ect.
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roger said:
OK, I read it again and I don't see it.

Obviously the OP has some basic knowledge or he wouldn't be asking for clarrification.

The OP is observing and asking us a few questions. It's quite probable that he is trying to prepare a reasonably accurate report so that he can recommend or not recommend follow up by an EC.

Roger
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I guess I'll keep my opinions on this matter to myself. This is not my sandbox. It was the 2010 NEC that may have caused me to over react. If an apology would be in order then I offer it now.
 
streetneons said:
And I think I found my answer but will ask the experts anyways, outlets and switches in a bathroom near a tub or shower, what is the actual requirement for the placement, I know it can't be in the shower/tub basin area, but should it be like 3 feet away from the basin, or is right on the drywall next to the shower within reach when in the shower okay?
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Questions like this come up often even among the more experienced.

It really doesn't sound like a good idea to have switches or receptacles close to a tub/shower so maybe there should be or is a rule against it?

There is no rule for the placement of a switch or receptacle outside of tub/shower location. If it's a receptacle it must be GFCI protected ( it's in the bathroom).

That switch that's over the sink for the garbage disposal is OK also. Probably not the world's best design but legal.

Many things that may be legal can still be of concern to a home inspector or homeowner. An example is a switch that is behind a door (you open the door, switch covered). Legal but would drive most people nuts and not good design. Most home inspections only verify that the switch in question is operable and not idealy located.
 
The facts are this-- the decisions to allow or not allow a question is one for the mods not the members. If you think it is questionable and we will look into it and decide. IMO, I respect the OP for questioning the work and looking elsewhere for help. I sometimes get asked to go to a home inspector meeting and give a talk on electrical. These guys have to learn many trades and it is not easy-- no different then an electrical inspector coming in here and trying to get answers. Heck we ask those type of questions all the time.

To the op- if you haven't been scared off yet, the install is compliant although someone may say the nm cable is not protected since it seems to be in a closet where things may get stored and brushed up against. IMO, I would not do it that way but I would not turn it down.
 
"no different then an electrical inspector coming in here and trying to get answers. Heck we ask those type of questions all the time."



I agree.
I think an apology was in order Mike and you offered it. I just hope the OP sees it and accepts it.
 
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Thank you for the help and info, I am still in the learning process and like most will continue to keep learning. Sorry if my question is to basic or simple, but when it comes to home inspector training, sometimes it can leave a lot up to the imagination, and while we do not cite code in our reports, to have an understanding of what is and not allowed does help. I am reading books, outside of home inspection electrical, just trying to learn more, and not just electrical, we haves roofs, plumbings, a/c, and everything else in a house that we get to inspect so that when we see something we think is an issue we can refer it to a specialist. So I appreciate all the help, and continuing to learn from others.
 
streetneons said:
Thank you for the help and info, I am still in the learning process and like most will continue to keep learning. Sorry if my question is to basic or simple, but when it comes to home inspector training, sometimes it can leave a lot up to the imagination, and while we do not cite code in our reports, to have an understanding of what is and not allowed does help. I am reading books, outside of home inspection electrical, just trying to learn more, and not just electrical, we haves roofs, plumbings, a/c, and everything else in a house that we get to inspect so that when we see something we think is an issue we can refer it to a specialist. So I appreciate all the help, and continuing to learn from others.
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Welcome!

Even the professionals are always learning. If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask them here. We are more than glad to help you out. HI a complex thing, I agree with Dennis, an HI has to memorize every single residential trade. Not easy to do.


This is the place when in question:):happyyes:
 
So here is something that I have gotten different answers on.
I had a house with the electrical panel in the garage, built in 2007, and there was no main breaker or disconnect in the panel, and more then 6 breakers or throws to turn all the power off. On the outside of the house on the opposite side, near the meter was a box with the disconnect. Some have said that is okay, while others say you need a means of disconnect within 6 feet of the panel in the garage since it will take more then 6 throws. So should that panel have a disconnect? or is it okay to have the disconnect outside more then 6 feet away?
 
As long as there is a single disconnect which is fused and acting as the service disconnect, and it is accessible either inside or outside the building, there is no limit to the number of handles downstream for that building.
But since the main disconnect at the house is the only upstream disconnect for the (detached) garage, I think you do have a problem.

Tapatalk!
 
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streetneons said:
So here is something that I have gotten different answers on.
I had a house with the electrical panel in the garage, built in 2007, and there was no main breaker or disconnect in the panel, and more then 6 breakers or throws to turn all the power off. On the outside of the house on the opposite side, near the meter was a box with the disconnect. Some have said that is okay, while others say you need a means of disconnect within 6 feet of the panel in the garage since it will take more then 6 throws. So should that panel have a disconnect? or is it okay to have the disconnect outside more then 6 feet away?
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Sounds ok to me. Was this home permitted/inspected? How many wires feed the panel in the garage?

EDIT

Suggestion. Start a new post for new questions. That way you will get more replies.
 
jxofaltrds said:
Sounds ok to me. Was this home permitted/inspected? How many wires feed the panel in the garage?

EDIT

Suggestion. Start a new post for new questions. That way you will get more replies.
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I agree. If the disconnect is fused and 2 hot's a neutral and a ground are run to the main lug panel and the neutrals and grounds are separated in the panel it sounds good.
Goldigger mentioned it was a detached building. Is that correct? I did not see mention of that.
 
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