peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
Everyone of the cables should be sleeved with flex after leaving the bottom of the floor joist.
Good point.
A guy swinging an axe or a chainsaw down near the panel might damage those cables.
Everyone of the cables should be sleeved with flex after leaving the bottom of the floor joist.
Ha ha ha ha ha!!! That's funny as hail there!!Good point.
A guy swinging an axe or a chainsaw down near the panel might damage those cables.
Good point.
A guy swinging an axe or a chainsaw down near the panel might damage those cables.
334.15(C) ". . . NM cable installed on the wall of an unfinished basement shall be permitted to be installed in a listed conduit or tubing or shall be protected in accordance with 300.4 . . ."Everyone of the cables should be sleeved with flex after leaving the bottom of the floor joist.
250.64(B) ". . . Grounding electrode conductors smaller than 6 AWG shall be in rigid conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid metal conduit, electrical metallic tubing, or cable armor."That # 8 ground wire should be in half inch emt, if it were # 6 and came in the top, I would allow it.
230.70(A)(1) ". . .nearest the point of entrance . . ."That SEU or SER cable feeding the panel has traveled some distance from the meter, so there should be a main on the other end and this should now be a sub-panel with a separate ground and neutral bar.
I don't see anything that is necessarily wrong with David's comments. I put plywood behind basement panels. The NM is not "installed on the wall" that way. "Nearest" the point of entrance is a local intereptation. I've found up to 10' being accepted.And if the circuitry on a few of those circuits were split up and made into a few more circuits, we could do away with those 30tys !This is why we have codes !
I'm going to quote IWIRE here,
"Glad you included that I would not have figured it out as your a better electrician then a comedian."
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I don't see anything that is necessarily wrong with David's comments.
Obviously my comments about axes and chainsaws damaging the NM cables are intended to be humorous, but they are true as well. What is going to cause damage to those cables and the GEC? Nothing, absolutely nothing.
the GEC isn't a number 8I know, nothing is going to happen. I know that all sorts of stuff gets leaned on basement walls, lumber scap, boxes of junk, who knows what. But I know you can bruise a NM pretty hard before there is usually a problem.
Just trying to point out to David that an actual NEC reference might get a more favorable response. I think he was pretty much right codewise, just lacking the sections. I never use a # 8 GEC for conduit reasons (never a white one either!).
Nor do I actually worry about cables to a panel on the wall in real life, just playing with Codes here.![]()
the GEC isn't a number 8
the GEC isn't a number 8
I think it's a #10. Even worse yet.You might be right, I can't tell from here. Maybe ivsenroute will say. Hopefully it's a # 6 then. I make assumptions all the time. I assume this is a basement, a dwelling unit, the panel is at least 30 years old, and I could be wrong on all counts.
Really?!?!? You need to get out more.... But I have to say my favorite solid conductor would be #4 solid bare.... Locally - it gets me out of piping #6 to water or rods.I've never seen solid #8.
so can you get solid #8 as a single conductor insulated white?Really?!?!? You need to get out more.... But I have to say my favorite solid conductor would be #4 solid bare.... Locally - it gets me out of piping #6 to water or rods.
You can get it in any color you want. (Well unless you are looking for Teal or chartreuse.)
They make/made solid #8 that was insulated. I myself have only seen it in the older type insulation such as TW.I've never seen solid #8.
Often in bare, black, and on occasion green - but mostly bare.so can you get solid #8 as a single conductor insulated white?