What Would You Do?

Status
Not open for further replies.
JFletcher said:
As a rule, I do not like 'creeping errors'. Wall isnt plumb, floor isnt level, corners arent square, siding isnt straight... not my problem. If you have to fudge it, then do so, but Id be damned if I set my switchgear out of plumb b/c the carpenters hosed up. My OCD would require a second level to verify my gear was plumb, but if it were, well, forget the framing. What if they decide to repair it at a later date, but cant , because your gear is flush with their messed up wall?
Click to expand...
I don't know what your level of experience is, but in my 40 plus professional years I've found:

At the end of the day, week, month, year, life (perhaps), it's how it looks, not how it measures... for most things. :happyyes:
 
Smart $ said:
.... Open bottom gear typically has at least a framing member across the front bottom. ...
Click to expand...
Zooming in on the picture reveals what appears to be an "L" remnant of the lower front box. Reflection of surrounding foreground color makes it blend in with the background fairly good.
 
Smart $ said:
I don't know what your level of experience is, but in my 40 plus professional years I've found:

At the end of the day, week, month, year, life (perhaps), it's how it looks, not how it measures... for most things. :happyyes:
Click to expand...

About 33 years short of you, 38 if discounting communciations cabling. Yes, most times it's how it looks, but a recent exception: we did a panel/meter box change. Mounting the can to the siding, it was level with the siding, but not level. Siding was being replaced. I ripped out the siding, mounted it true level, and hoped the siding guys put up the new siding level. Initially I measured from the door frame, and found the door 'parallelogramed' from foundation settling. In a case like that, how would you install the new meter can?
 
JFletcher said:
About 33 years short of you, 38 if discounting communciations cabling. Yes, most times it's how it looks, but a recent exception: we did a panel/meter box change. Mounting the can to the siding, it was level with the siding, but not level. Siding was being replaced. I ripped out the siding, mounted it true level, and hoped the siding guys put up the new siding level. Initially I measured from the door frame, and found the door 'parallelogramed' from foundation settling. In a case like that, how would you install the new meter can?
Click to expand...
Match foundation sill for the whole wall, i.e. don't match at one point but rather average the whole wall. String and a line level in the middle should tell you bubble position.

You knew going in the new siding may not be level. The siding guys are going to be facing a worse situation than you if the foundation is off level. I don't know any siding guys that would scab on a leveling starter, then stay level on additional courses. Most I know would just match the foundation level as noted... as it should work out better for looks when they "wrap" the corner and match alignment on the next wall. If they go true level, the alignment at corners wouldn't match. I've seen some of these jobs and they don't look good at all.

General rule: You can go off level for something that should be level to full bubble within the lines (rule doesn't work too well with digital), and use your own judgement for anything beyond. If you can't fudge it, make it true.

(PS: I noted from another thread you were concerned about speed for installing ceiling fans. When working under someone, you will sometimes find that to go the "extra mile", as it has been coined at times, may cost you speed. You'll have to weigh how to proceed accordingly.)
 
Smart $ said:
Not this particular type.

This type typically isn't open bottom in my experience. What's shown in the picture looks like there's a gutter or something missing that goes on the bottom. Open bottom gear typically has at least a framing member across the front bottom. If I'm wrong, another sign of changing times I guess.
Click to expand...

The picture doesn't show it, but it is an open bottom gear that sits on a 6" curb, even though they look like typical panelboards.
 
I guess I get my "plumb and level" from installing many multi-section bolted together switchgears over the years. It would look like ass if I just followed the not-so-level concrete pad that I'm usually presented with and called it good. I'd have to carry a case of gray caulk on the van to fill the seams in the switchgear
laff.gif
 
sparkyrick said:
I guess I get my "plumb and level" from installing many multi-section bolted together switchgears over the years. It would look like ass if I just followed the not-so-level concrete pad that I'm usually presented with and called it good. I'd have to carry a case of gray caulk on the van to fill the seams in the switchgear
laff.gif
Click to expand...

Is just electrical gear in a fast food kitchen, no one cares. It is not art.
 
sparkyrick said:
I take pride in my work, so I care.
Click to expand...
I understand, but sometimes doing it "right" looks worse than doing it "wrong". Case by case.

For some reason this thread reminds me of the title of an old Jerry Lewis movie - Don't Raise the Bridge, Lower the River.
 
A quick one, I had to install a floor mount 50 KW inveter inside a warehouse. The spot the customer gave me was a spot where the floor slab was broken and sinking, not a spot the customer could use so it was all mine. :D

I ended up installing a 6' x 2' cement housekeeping pad, I framed it out with with 2x8s that I scribed to the unlevel floor, it was out almost 6" in 6'. :lol:

Anyway, my pad came out nice and level, the equipment looked good. But the customer would have been fine if I had just set it on the existing slab and shimmed it from rocking. :(



BTW, we did not even hardpipe to this unit, we piped near it and changed to flex. It was clear the slab was going to keep sagging. I doubt that equipment is level now. :(
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top