Can't speak for any one else but my primary is residential and I abhor the back stab. Seen too many failures on service calls or changeouts, minor meltdowns (receptacle still works but melting beginning around stab holes) to total exposed guts. I've even gone in to find 2 screws plus 1 backstab used where the backstab showed evidence of heating.
That is your hint what happened.
All mechanical joints cannot have a resistance less than the wire itself. Bus bars are supposed to have a contact area 3-5 times larger than the bus bar itself at a joint for that reason.
So now let’s apply some simple logic. If we have a fault in the system the breaker is designed to protect the wire. But occasionally we see normal surges, somewhat overloaded appliances, hair dryers. All of these temporarily overload the circuit then pass. The breakers only trip if the WIRE is in danger of being damaged.
Now consider what causes that wire to heat up. It has resistance or more specifically impedance. It gets hot proportional to the impedance and the square of the current. So that joint has a resistance several times higher than the wire itself. If you land it on a brass screw strapped to a piece of metal, all that surface area is contributing to radiating heat that is more or less open air. If you stick only the end with no exposed insulation down into a PVC plastic pocket everything is thermally insulated. The heat can’t escape. So it starts to soften at a mere 135 F, in the overload scenario the plastic is going to get scorched. The side screws are not only better at radiating heat by nature but the wire isn’t laying right up against the plastic the way it is routed so any melting going on is going to be mostly visible only on the wire itself. Even if it is not technically overloaded but the springs on the sockets for the plug get loose they get hot and again with the wire joint being the warmest area, guess where we expect to see faults?
Does overloading affect the integrity of the receptacle? I would hope UL tests for this. So it might be that some browning or scorching is OK but not a severe case. We see this going on inside breakers and contactors where the arc chutes discolor over time BY DESIGN.
So i don’t disagree that there are probably wiring errors with back stabbing but you can’t inspect the joint except with a “tug test” or if you are a breaker or motor shop a micro ohm meter but I don’t see many residential electricians with a tool that costs more than all their other tools combined. So no way to tell if it engaged the teeth, was stripped back the right amount, etc. With a screw terminal you can see it very easily and tell if it’s wrapped far enough, screw is tightened properly, etc. A lot more things can go wrong compared to just pushing a wire in but they are highly visible. Maybe that’s why Leverlocks do better than wire nuts or push terminals and why even the push terminals that are sold tend to be clear for inspection.
In fact I’ll go one step further. Spring clip joints have been common in electrical work for decades and have proven to have similar installation issues but still work great if used properly but there is one big difference with the industrial ones. We use all stranded wire so we can’t stab it in. Instead there is a screw driver slot that opens the jaw. You can even look down inside and see it open. Much better design. And a third option would be insulation displacement...no stripping at all and everything is sealed so much less chance of failures.
So I’m not in the camp of throwing the backstab JOINT under the bus. Too many industrial and residential systems work just fine with this type of spring clip system. I just don’t think the implementation is all that great, or we need to re-educate electricians that where there is smoke, it’s just smoke, if this is by design.