wrapping wires around screw terminations?

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LarryFine said:
I usually use an S-1 (square drive) bit in my electric driver, instead of a Philips, for the same reason as Howard. The S-1 fits the 6-32 mounting screws as well. I make each termination as if it's the most important connection I'll ever make. I also like the back-wiring clamp type.
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I am a late adaptor, but the S-1 does seem to be the way to go.
 
K2X said:
I'll practice standing at a bench and see what i can come up with. Thanks again..
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Not to discourage studying at home, but give yourself some time off. Sounds to me like your production was just fine.
 
solid wire on receptacle

solid wire on receptacle

I like to add an additional "kick" to the wire. I bend the 180 deg bend with my strippers and then I use my Kleins to put a small kick just before the loop starts. This method worked very well for me, even when the screws weren't backed out so far...

Have a great day!
Matt
 
Cavie said:
back wired outlets and switches should be outlawed.
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Why??? I've been backstabbing #14 for years and have NEVER had a problem. The UL listing means something as in the device has been tested for the intended purpose. It's all about workmanship Cavie.......strip the wire to the proper length and backstab.
 
Please no backstabbing

Please no backstabbing

Guys, please avoid backstabbing. I've seen more problems from that than anything else. Countless service calls, I pull a device and hold a handful of fireworks. Some wires pull out on their own, others are arc welded into the melted device, etc. A wire even moderately snug under a screw is a much better connection. Some devices now have a notch, just put the wire against it and bend on around. Better devices have the little clamp that will take stranded wire. The UL approval of backstabbing is laughable. I still say UL is a money racket.
 
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A/A Fuel GTX said:
Why??? I've been backstabbing #14 for years and have NEVER had a problem. The UL listing means something as in the device has been tested for the intended purpose. It's all about workmanship Cavie.......strip the wire to the proper length and backstab.
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Weren't the Federal Pacific panels UL listed too?
 
jmellc said:
Guys, please avoid backstabbing. I've seen more problems from that than anything else.
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I agree. You'd think they'd work at least as well as Wago's, but having been around a lot longer, they've had more history. We haven't seen 20-year-old Wago's yet.

I, too, have seen back-poked receptacles cause the majority of partial-circuit outages, and for no electrical reason, it usually seems to be on the grounded conductor.

On many, I've pulled the receptacle out of the box, and two, three, or even all four of the wire ends remain pointing straight out, as if the receptacle was still there.

I forbid anyone working for me to back-poke on any new work, and, while new devices may have improved poke-hole mechanisms, I'd rather take the extra time.
 
Does this critique of back-wired receptacles include both the barbed "backstab" kind and the kind with a rear insert into a screw down clamp? Personally I don't trust the former but I like the latter.
 
El, welcome to the forum! :)

Eldan said:
Does this critique of back-wired receptacles include both the barbed "backstab" kind and the kind with a rear insert into a screw down clamp? Personally I don't trust the former but I like the latter.
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Speaking for all, I believe we're in agreement with your assessment.
 
A/A Fuel GTX said:
Why??? I've been backstabbing #14 for years and have NEVER had a problem. The UL listing means something as in the device has been tested for the intended purpose. It's all about workmanship Cavie.......strip the wire to the proper length and backstab.
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Moblile home service calls used to usually be due to backstabbed receptacle.These receptacles didn't have side screws.

Now its just as likely to be the selfcontained receptacles that don't go in a box.

Maybe just because they use cheaper products in mobile homes, but I've found lots of problems in houses too. Sometimes the electrician that installed them never had a problem with them, but the homeowner did and so called me.
 
Keep on backstabbing, I feed my family on the service calls! To those who say, "I've been backstabbing for twenty years and haven't had any problems..." Yes you have, you just aren't called back to fix the problem, because the customer does not want you back in their home!

Back on topic:

Trim all of your conductors to the same length.
Strip and bend all your conductors.
The kick method helps on stubborn devices.
Hold the device on its side and hook up all terminals on that side.
Pull the device with your left hand and keep tension, this will help the conductors sit snugly around the binding posts.
Tighten all the binding posts on that side.
Rotate device 180 degrees.
Repeat the last three steps.

Sometimes it helps to hold the device with your palm and three fingers, while pulling back on the conductor with your thumb and index finger.

This is over simplified and I could show you much easier than trying to describe it. This method was taught to me on day one of my career by the company owner.

I admire the OP's fortitude, keep practicing, preferably some of the time on the clock, but there is nothing wrong with advancing your skill on your own time too.

Another tip, make sure that the end of your copper loop sits in the space provided, if it sticks out and sits on the little plastic lip that some devices have, it will most likely crack the device when you tighten it down.

And if you do use a screw gun to make your connections, your clutch is your best friend. I still go back and hand torque all terminal screws by hand. However, the I feel confident finishing the screws using a screw gun if I"m using a square driver as mentioned earlier.
 
I make that point a lot. Federal & Zinsco both carried UL labels, as well as lots of equipment I've seen that breaks all kinds of rules, such as ground lugs mounted with tek screws, ground screws that strip out, wiring boxes much too small for the feeders, lighting sockets fed with hot to screwshell, flex connectors that come loose with minor contact/movement, ungrounded metal parts, etc, etc.

UL is a joke, a scam and a ripoff.
 
jmellc said:
I make that point a lot. Federal & Zinsco both carried UL labels, as well as lots of equipment I've seen that breaks all kinds of rules, such as ground lugs mounted with tek screws, ground screws that strip out, wiring boxes much too small for the feeders, lighting sockets fed with hot to screwshell, flex connectors that come loose with minor contact/movement, ungrounded metal parts, etc, etc.

UL is a joke, a scam and a ripoff.
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No rules are being broken, the NEC does not apply to the items you mention.
 
flashlight said:
Bend with strippers or needle nose, then squeeze around terminal. Have tried those bending holes on Klein strippers, not for me though many guys get great results. Best method: back wired receptacles !
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Are you talking about 15a receptacles for stabbing or devices like GFCI's that screw down. I hate stab devices and think there ought to be a law against them as I see too many burn out.
 
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