vasparky27
Member
- Location
- Chesapeake, Va.
Yup
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Yes its plumbing pipe with THHN inside. 2 HOTS AND A GROUND WIRE
going back out today to look at other issues.
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I think you have seen the future all too clearly.:happyyes:
Sounds good, when can u start ?![]()
Waiting to hear back from the homeowner....What size wire? If that's the feed for the panel, then, well, yuck indeed. Chances are one of those "hots" is actually a neutral, and the ground wire is actually serving as a ground. If not, hope the HO ran conduit all the way back to the panel thru elbows and not plumbing 90s and use the existing wire as a pull string.
eta: scratch that. I'd rip it all out and do it right. There's just too much of a mess there to try to fix it up and stick your name on the finished product. The NM out of the top of the panel isnt secured correctly, you probably dont have enough slack to secure it right, it ought to be run thru the top plate vs wrapped around the face of the stud, etc etc etc. Would probably take less time to re-do it right than fix the existing too.
Seems I already have hahaha.
$$$$$$$total rewire!
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Doing some other work under the house and found this
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Total rewire suggested. Customer did not like my price.So what solution did you propose to the customer? Details?
Doing some other work under the house and found this![]()
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Total rewire suggested. Customer did not like my price.
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What is the problem with that? It is sitting on a brick wall, not the same situation as if same hole were cut in a joist that was actually "free spanning".Do you really want to hold the bag for the damage to that perimeter joist?
What is the problem with that? It is sitting on a brick wall, not the same situation as if same hole were cut in a joist that was actually "free spanning".
If there are noverticalloadbearing members directly above the notch there will be no sag. As simple as that.It's still transferring the load from the structure above to the foundation. You could wind up with a sag in the exterior wall that goes up to the roof. Likely? I don't know; that's why you shouldn't cut it unless you're the structural engineer who signed off on removing it..
If there are noverticalloadbearing members directly above the notch there will be no sag. As simple as that.
However with a cut all the way through the member you might lose shear strength in the wall.
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Still looks to me like the studs go all the way down to the sill plate. Seen a lot of that kind of construction in older homes. The joist that was cut out isn't supporting much if I am correct on this, just the outer edge of the sub flooring near the wall. You would have to put a fairly extreme amount of weight in just the right place to make it fail.Considering the width of the cut there's a very good chance that there's a load-bearing stud above it. However, the crux of the issue is that no one knows at this time. You are rolling the dice. I personally think it unwise, but everyone has their own level of comfort in circumstances like this.
In conventional light wood framing, two flat 2Xs is considered adequate to span 14.5" absent a concentrated load. I.e. for a load bearing wall with a double top plate and studs 16" o.c., there is no need to line up joists bearing on the wall with studs below.It's still transferring the load from the structure above to the foundation.