Ask This Old House

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steelersman

Senior Member
Location
Lake Ridge, VA
LarryFine said:
I saw it, too, and he used separate pop-ins for each cable. I would have used a J-box in the attic and only one cable per box.
It's better to just use the plastic saddle fan box. That way you can run quite a few cables into it and still mount it to the bottom of the joist like a pancake. :) That's the best method.
 

brian john

Senior Member
Location
Leesburg, VA
I have been a follower of this show form the start and many a Saturday I was ready to pull my hair out as i watched their "Master Electricians" doing less than NEC compliant and/or quality work all the while thinking I should be their Master. But then you guys would be all over my tushie.
 

220/221

Senior Member
Location
AZ
Nothing dangerous about screwing thru a box and there is plenty of room for wiring in pan boxes+canopys........but I wouldn't do it on TV.

Boxes screw to studs are far more secure than cut in/old work boxes. I never put receps in old work boxes if there is a stud to screw to. Years of pushing/pulling on the recep will eventually cause issues.

It's better to just use the plastic saddle fan box.

Sometime the layout will not allow that. If the center of the fixture is off center from the stud an inch or two, you need to use a pan box. If it lays out right on the joist, no problem. We generally cut our pendant boxes in on trim because things seem to get tweaked a bit between conception and installation.
 
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peter

Senior Member
Location
San Diego
In all magnaminous fairness, it should be pointed out that he did PRE-Twist on at least connection.
It seemed that he didn't use connectors when he pushed the NM into the pancake boxes.
However, he did the whole, entire job in less than 14 minutes and maybe less.
~Peter
 

acrwc10

Master Code Professional
Location
CA
Occupation
Building inspector
220/221 said:
Nothing dangerous about screwing thru a box and there is plenty of room for wiring in pan boxes+canopys........but I wouldn't do it on TV.

Boxes screw to studs are far more secure than cut in/old work boxes. I never put receps in old work boxes if there is a stud to screw to. Years of pushing/pulling on the recep will eventually cause issues.



Sometime the layout will not allow that. If the center of the fixture is off center from the stud an inch or two, you need to use a pan box. If it lays out right on the joist, no problem. We generally cut our pendant boxes in on trim because things seem to get tweaked a bit between conception and installation.[/QUOTE]

Try one of these they are great for just that application.http://www.westinghouselighting.com/pdf/pdf_decelec07/FanMasterJr.pdf
 

monkey

Senior Member
Location
Arizona
One reason not to use a cut in box for switches because when you put dimmers in a cut in box they will not flush up enough to get a wall plate to fit flush with the wall.

For this reason I use Smart boxes, although I have been known to "smarten up" a nail on box for the occasion.
 

steelersman

Senior Member
Location
Lake Ridge, VA
Jim W in Tampa said:
Not legal but in a jam i might do it
Like Abe Lincoln, I can't tell a lie. I do this all the time. I do it as often as I need to. If I'm adding a new switch box or outlet box then I usually use a plastic cut-in box. But let's say that I'm changing an existing one gang box to a two gang or three gang box, well then I cut off the nail brackets and screw away. I do prefer to use cut-ins where I can as opposed to just screwing to nearest stud. If done right cut-ins are just as sturdy, except for if you were trying to put a flush mount dryer or range outlet in it then you beter just surface mount it.
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
We could just stock a few smart boxes in our trucks then we could fasten through the side professionally .......... Just a thought. :)

To me, part of what separates professionals from DIYs is the professionals ability to do the work and stay within the rules. If the HO has decided to part with their money to pay for a professional to do the work doesn't the professional owe the HO a code compliant job?
 

steelersman

Senior Member
Location
Lake Ridge, VA
iwire said:
We could just stock a few smart boxes in our trucks then we could fasten through the side professionally .......... Just a thought. :)

To me, part of what separates professionals from DIYs is the professionals ability to do the work and stay within the rules. If the HO has decided to part with their money to pay for a professional to do the work doesn't the professional owe the HO a code compliant job?
This is the first time for me hearing about the smart boxes. If I can find them at the big box stores then I will definitely use them. They would be easier to use than altering the nail ons anyway so I would like to use those instead, but I doubt that the box stores have them, maybe they will soon though.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Here is what they look like. Notice that the screws have a hub to recess into. This avoids accidental energizing of the screw. Smart Home

largeSB1G.jpg
 

SEO

Senior Member
Location
Michigan
Dennis Alwon said:
Here is what they look like. Notice that the screws have a hub to recess into. This avoids accidental energizing of the screw. Smart Home

largeSB1G.jpg
We use them all the time . We have them on the shelf in the shop and carry a few on the trucks. They work great and secure a lot better than the altered boxes. All our supply houses have them. Big box ?
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
aftershock said:
Use a 2 gang cut-in/old work box to wire a dryer (10/3 with ground). Hook up your dryer rec and start pushing back to the box so you can secure it. Watch it shove the box through the sheetrock.
Next time, try pushing the receptacle into the box and securing it in with the four 6-32's before you mount the box to the drywall. I install the box and receptacle into the cut-out as an assembly. I do this with many, if not all, old-work-box installations for exactly the reason you describe.
 

hillbilly1

Senior Member
Location
North Georgia mountains
Occupation
Owner/electrical contractor
The smart box looks like a neat invention, though never have seen them in any supply house that I've been to. My favorite "This Old House" episode was when Bob Vila was removing plaster from a plaster lathe wall, and shorts out a receptacle with the metal end of the scrapper, you see the flash on camera, but Bob keeps on beating!
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
steelersman said:
It's better to just use the plastic saddle fan box. That way you can run quite a few cables into it and still mount it to the bottom of the joist like a pancake.
The holes would have to have been moved closer to the joist, or a piece of 1x scabbed onto it. The half-saddle boxes (that's the kind you mean, right?) must be more than half-way lapped over (or rather, under) the joist for the mounting holes to be in line with solid wood.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
hillbilly1 said:
My favorite "This Old House" episode was when Bob Vila was removing plaster from a plaster lathe wall, and shorts out a receptacle with the metal end of the scrapper, you see the flash on camera, but Bob keeps on beating!
There's a funny home video where a guy is working on a switch while a banana-eating friend is watching. The guy pretends to receive a bad shock and the watcher gets so upset that, when he realizes the guy was faking it, he shoves the banana he's eating into the now-laughing guy's face.
 

NolaTigaBait

Senior Member
Location
New Orleans,LA
im with steelersguy, i cut the tabs off new construction boxes and screw them to the studs, and i don't even think twice about it...but, i would consider using these smart boxes if the supply house stocks them
 
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