cutting in recessed lights without access above how do you?

[svh19044]

For plaster and wood lathe I do it without power tools. In this case the plaster was so brittle if a hole saw bit would hang up in the slightest half the cieling would fall down. So i scored around the plaster with my utility knife and chipped out the plaster leaving the wood lathe. Then i take a drill with a 1" paddle bit and drill the perimeter of the lathe and snip it out with my dikes. Takes extra time but the holes were very good and clean and no cracks in the cieling. In my opinion if you use power tools on very brittle plaster your pressing your luck.

The room was being renovated and only the plywood floor was down so the owner said don't worry about making a mess so i did:lol:

I would suggest you give the carbide grit hole saws a try (along with the dust bowls). Use the ones that have no deep cut teeth, it's carbide all around. Again, go with the Milwaukee recessed light hole saws (or similar style). They are excellent for lathe and plaster holes, and I can't imagine ANY hand cutting doing a better/cleaner job.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/hole-saws/recessed-light-hole-saws

 

[KVA]

I would suggest you give the carbide grit hole saws a try (along with the dust bowls). Use the ones that have no deep cut teeth, it's carbide all around. Again, go with the Milwaukee recessed light hole saws (or similar style). They are excellent for lathe and plaster holes, and I can't imagine ANY hand cutting doing a better/cleaner job.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/hole-saws/recessed-light-hole-saws

I already own the milwaukee hole saw. Like i said in this case the plaster was very brittle more then most cases. If i would have got up there with that hole saw the cieling would have been f'ed for sure. I know what i'm doing thanks though:thumbsup:

 

[K8MHZ]

I would suggest you give the carbide grit hole saws a try (along with the dust bowls). Use the ones that have no deep cut teeth, it's carbide all around. Again, go with the Milwaukee recessed light hole saws (or similar style). They are excellent for lathe and plaster holes, and I can't imagine ANY hand cutting doing a better/cleaner job.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/hole-saws/recessed-light-hole-saws

I use Rem-Grit hole saws and love them. Plaster, wood, nails, it doesn't matter, and they don't vibrate and they don't get snagged on the lathe.

 

[svh19044]

I already own the milwaukee hole saw. Like i said in this case the plaster was very brittle more then most cases. If i would have got up there with that hole saw the cieling would have been f'ed for sure. I know what i'm doing thanks though:thumbsup:

I'm not questioning what you are doing, just suggesting a cleaner, more efficient method. :thumbsup:

You run much more of a risk breaking/chipping the ceiling doing this by hand, than you do high speed low pressure carbide grit hole saw. But if hand cutting works better for you, there is no questioning to be asked.

I use Rem-Grit hole saws and love them. Plaster, wood, nails, it doesn't matter, and they don't vibrate and they don't get snagged on the lathe.

Yep, same design, a true blessing for lathe/plaster recessed lighting. I guess the better thing about the remgrits is they are available everywhere (I have to special order the milwaukee recessed light hole saws).

 

[KVA]

I'm not questioning what you are doing, just suggesting a cleaner, more efficient method. :thumbsup:

You run much more of a risk breaking/chipping the ceiling doing this by hand, than you do high speed low pressure carbide grit hole saw. But if hand cutting works better for you, there is no questioning to be asked.

Again i own the hole saw and have used it. And again in this case the plaster was very brittle. If your an electrician and you don't the proper tools to cut holes out for lights you should rethink your career.

Some guys like to take risks in exchange for getting done quicker. I'm the opposite I rather make sure no damage is done and be alittle slower to ensure a great job. Working with old plaster is like a wood worker working with old expensive wood that needs to be handled with hand tools not power tools.

 

[svh19044]

Again i own the hole saw and have used it. And again in this case the plaster was very brittle. If your an electrician and you don't the proper tools to cut holes out for lights you should rethink your career.

Some guys like to take risks in exchange for getting done quicker. I'm the opposite I rather make sure no damage is done and be alittle slower to ensure a great job. Working with old plaster is like a wood worker working with old expensive wood that needs to be handled with hand tools not power tools.

I accept that YOU can possibly cut a more careful hole in to lathe and plaster by hand than you can with a carbide grit hole saw. I'm not sure how, but I do accept that you can manage that feat.

 

[B4T]

All the ceilings I work on are drywall.. lucky me..

I use an old school drywall saw to cut the holes.. some say I need to modernize.. but I like a time tested procedure.. :thumbsup:

First I find center of new location.. take a 1/8" X 12" drill bit and probe for any obstructions that might be lurking in that location..

I also use it to measure where framing members are located and mark with pieces of painters tape..

Once 6" hole is cut.. I use a spade bit with extension to drill ceiling beam next to light..

I don't drill completely through and use a length of 1/2" emt to finish hole once pilot tip breaks through..

Using a snake.. I measure through wire hole for next ceiling/floor beam..

I notch out drywall the length of a nail plate and use a 1.5" hole saw to cut 1/4" into beam for wire.. using wood chisel on sides of hole..

Once nail plate is screwed into place I use some quick drying spackle to fill hole.. it dries quick and gets another coat when I collect the check..

 

[KVA]

All the ceilings I work on are drywall.. lucky me..

I use an old school drywall saw to cut the holes.. some say I need to modernize.. but I like a time tested procedure.. :thumbsup:

First I find center of new location.. take a 1/8" X 12" drill bit and probe for any obstructions that might be lurking in that location..

I also use it to measure where framing members are located and mark with pieces of painters tape..

Once 6" hole is cut.. I use a spade bit with extension to drill ceiling beam next to light..

I don't drill completely through and use a length of 1/2" emt to finish hole once pilot tip breaks through..

Using a snake.. I measure through wire hole for next ceiling/floor beam..

I notch out drywall the length of a nail plate and use a 1.5" hole saw to cut 1/4" into beam for wire.. using wood chisel on sides of hole..

Once nail plate is screwed into place I use some quick drying spackle to fill hole.. it dries quick and gets another coat when I collect the check..

Using a long drill bit wont find any obstructions on the sides just up. I take a piece of wire about a foot + long and bend it in an L shape and push it up in that 1/4" hole and spin it around and push it up and down the hole. that guarantees nothing is in your way.

And you might as well drill all the way through because once the pilot tip goes through and hits a wire/drain/water piper it's too late anyway.

 

[B4T]

Using a long drill bit wont find any obstructions on the sides just up. I take a piece of wire about a foot + long and bend it in an L shape and push it up in that 1/4" hole and spin it around and push it up and down the hole. that guarantees nothing is in your way.

And you might as well drill all the way through because once the pilot tip goes through and hits a wire/drain/water piper it's too late anyway.

I use the bit on a very sharp angle to feel for things that might be in my way..

To date.. I have never had a screw up hitting a wire or plumbers pipe..

The wire works great till to have an insulated ceiling.. the 1/8" bit works everywhere..

 

[svh19044]

I use the bit on a very sharp angle to feel for things that might be in my way..

To date.. I have never had a screw up hitting a wire or plumbers pipe..

The wire works great till to have an insulated ceiling.. the 1/8" bit works everywhere..

Once my hole saw pilot drill is through, I use my long thin blade in the same manner that you use the drill bit. Sharp angle, circular pattern, works great, no worry about insulation.

 

[KVA]

I use the bit on a very sharp angle to feel for things that might be in my way..

To date.. I have never had a screw up hitting a wire or plumbers pipe..

The wire works great till to have an insulated ceiling.. the 1/8" bit works everywhere..

Yeah i never hit insulation they don't insulate between floors and if it's a ranch home then 99% of the time you have access above.

Whatever works for you we all got different methods.

 

[ritelec]

In all fairness to my quote, I am talking specifically about New Jersey.

Jersey Lead is Special Lead.

Yeah.........forget the certificate for now. I agree with kwired. As it is now I've got enough licenses and certificates sitting in a draw with no work.

 

[ritelec]

Yeah i never hit insulation they don't insulate between floors

ha ha ha ha oh my............here we go. I do.


KVA FOR HIGH HAT KING.......


By the way..........this is some thread you started KVA :thumbsup:

ha ha ha ha ha

 

[Little Bill]

All the ceilings I work on are drywall.. lucky me..

I use an old school drywall saw to cut the holes.. some say I need to modernize.. but I like a time tested procedure.. :thumbsup:

First I find center of new location.. take a 1/8" X 12" drill bit and probe for any obstructions that might be lurking in that location..

I also use it to measure where framing members are located and mark with pieces of painters tape..

Once 6" hole is cut.. I use a spade bit with extension to drill ceiling beam next to light..

I don't drill completely through and use a length of 1/2" emt to finish hole once pilot tip breaks through..

Using a snake.. I measure through wire hole for next ceiling/floor beam..

I notch out drywall the length of a nail plate and use a 1.5" hole saw to cut 1/4" into beam for wire.. using wood chisel on sides of hole..

Once nail plate is screwed into place I use some quick drying spackle to fill hole.. it dries quick and gets another coat when I collect the check..

Since you are drilling "blind", how do you know when the the tip is through?

Where are you talking about using the 1.5" hole saw and chisel?

 

[KVA]

ha ha ha ha oh my............here we go. I do.


KVA FOR HIGH HAT KING.......


By the way..........this is some thread you started KVA :thumbsup:

ha ha ha ha ha

Most 2 story+ homes don't have insulation between floors I can't remember the last time I experienced it in 15+ years. It's useless unless used for sound.

Thanks :lol:

 

[ritelec]

Most 2 story+ homes don't have insulation between floors I can't remember the last time I experienced it in 15+ years. It's useless unless used for sound.

Thanks :lol:

Your right...........

Did it in my house though. For 1) the sound but more importantly for 2) I got a slew of heating zones I put in.

Really makes a difference :thumbsup:

But yes you are correct...............who's the man?

 

[B4T]

Since you are drilling "blind", how do you know when the the tip is through?

Where are you talking about using the 1.5" hole saw and chisel?

I have a 23W CFL in a drop-light that I put in the bay and I check the depth..

The hole-saw is for the part of the beam where the drywall was removed.. just a faster way to recess the NM running under the beam..

 

[Buck Parrish]

I carry 6,5 and 4 inch sheet rock screws to help stableize the pop ins.

Heres a quick vid of one we did . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7wOJD5YR-Y

 

[B4T]

I carry 6,5 and 4 inch sheet rock screws to help stableize the pop ins.

Heres a quick vid of one we did . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7wOJD5YR-Y

I do the same thing.. but got blasted on another forum for using the drywall screws to secure the cans..

I took it all under advisement and deposited the comments in the proper folder..

 

[KVA]

I do the same thing.. but got blasted on another forum for using the drywall screws to secure the cans..

I took it all under advisement and deposited the comments in the proper folder..

View attachment 6485

Halo says you can use screws but drywall screws are for here goes.......drywall hence the name:lol: