Residential Wiring with nonmetallic sheathed cable (Romex)

[220/221]

Just run 2 - 14/3 nm cables and all those troubles go away. Now if they only made those darn jb's big enough to meet code life would be wonderful

That's what I thought but apparently you can't parallel the neutrals.

Try to keep up :grin:

I guess the only compliant solution is to feed the fan/light/heat/nitelite with power and run switch loops to the sw box.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

That's what I thought but apparently you can't parallel the neutrals.

Try to keep up :grin:

I guess the only compliant solution is to feed the fan/light/heat/nitelite with power and run switch loops to the sw box.

You don't parallel the neutrals. Each outlet in the fan/light/ heat/ nite light has it's own recep. with it's own neutral. Just split it up.

 

[gndrod]

14-3

14-3

Just run 2 - 14/3 nm cables and all those troubles go away. Now if they only made those darn jb's big enough to meet code life would be wonderful. :smile:

You must have been typing when I posted. Great minds....rbj

 

[al hildenbrand]

I guess the only compliant solution is to feed the fan/light/heat/nitelite with power and run switch loops to the sw box.

It'll take a Porta-Push to squeeze the conductors into that fan jbox. 14/2 in, 14/5 to the switch box.

 

[iwire]

It'll take a Porta-Push to squeeze the conductors into that fan jbox. 14/2 in, 14/5 to the switch box.

1/2" FMC or smurf tube is sounding better all the time.

 

[220/221]

Each outlet in the fan/light/ heat/ nite light has it's own recep. with it's own neutral. Just split it up.

Well then nevermind. The ones I have installed only had one neutral.

 

[peter d]

I actually opened my book. A RARE occaision.

Wow.


I mean......wow.

I'm just lost for words.

What a great day.

 

[Cow]

He opened it, tommorrow he's actually going to read it...

 

[cowboyjwc]

1/2" FMC or smurf tube is sounding better all the time.

That's exactly what I was thinking.

I always thought that you paralleled conductors to make smaller ones into larger ones (two #12 instead of one #8 for 40 amps for example). In the case of the 14/3 and the 14/3 you are simply splicing the neutrals.

 

[220/221]

He opened it, tommorrow he's actually going to read it...

Can't you just feel the love?

 

[LarryFine]

The ex fan/light will not have separate neutrals but I don't see where it says they have to.

The NEC doesn't say it, but to have each neutral only supply the same loads as the hots in the same cable, and you have more than one cable, that's what would have to be done.

 

[LarryFine]

I would run the hot and neutral to the appliance, and then the switch legs to the switch box.

That still leaves you needing five conductors to the switchbox. How would you use the colors?

 

[LarryFine]

Who puts the 7W night light on a switch leg?

Even if you wire it always on, it still needs a conductor.

 

[LarryFine]

I guess the only compliant solution is to feed the fan/light/heat/nitelite with power and run switch loops to the sw box.

And I repeat my question in post #52.

 

[gndrod]

Installation #1
A bathroom will have a combination heat/vent/light appliance installed on a 120-volt/15-amp dedicated circuit.

Installation #2
A ceiling fan with light will be installed on a 120-volt/15amp lighting circuit. By NEC code can on 14/3 and one 14/2 Romex cable be used between the two double-gang boxes to provide the five conductors needed; or must five-single conductors be installed in conduit between the two double-gang boxes?

I am looking for serious responses and it is my hope that someone can help me understand these particular problems more clearly. Thank you for your help.

Questions: Installation #1...Your question has incomplete descriptive data. a) Please state size of bathroom sf area to determine lighting required. b) Please state type and size of heater such as resistant elements, or IR lamp. c) Please state if bathroom has 50% openable 3 sf window.

Answer: Installation #2...Yes 14-3 and 14-2 can providing the remote 2gg box is dead-ended. Loop is permitted by [404.2(A)] exception. Note: the white conductor insulation must be painted or taped black.

 

[Flex]

Questions: Installation #1...Your question has incomplete descriptive data. a) Please state size of bathroom sf area to determine lighting required. b) Please state type and size of heater such as resistant elements, or IR lamp. c) Please state if bathroom has 50% openable 3 sf window.

why is that important?

 

[gndrod]

why is that important?

IRC R303.3 for a start, and 220.12 for lighting determine what is required before wiring is even considered.

 

[gndrod]

Important...maybe

Important...maybe

My apologies Flex. I see you are commercial. A little explaining will help. Residential codes include other trades that impact the NEC in different ways. For instance, the IRC R303.3 requires artificial lighting and venting for bathrooms that do not have at least a 1.5 sf glazing opening for air circulation. In that case, the vent fan and illumination must be controlled on simultaneously. The sf of a bathroom requires 3w/sf [220.12] to determine the lighting sizing basically. (I.e. A bathroom 5' x 8' = 40sf x 3= 120 w lighting.) Does this help? rbj

 

[LarryFine]

The sf of a bathroom requires 3w/sf [220.12] to determine the lighting sizing basically. (I.e. A bathroom 5' x 8' = 40sf x 3= 120 w lighting.)

For load calcs, not actual installation.

 

[gndrod]

For load calcs, not actual installation.

I agree but we both know the 7w night light isn't the best vanity illumination. The 100w lamping in the vent/fan/heat/lighting is somewhat questionable for task lighting in this case.