Speed Check

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Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
I use to figure 40 minutes per opening + 4 hrs for the service. Start to finish. Only charged 1300 for a house back then, now I don't even price a service at that. I was also skinny & up two rungs on the step ladder before all the legs hit the floor.

Haven't been low bid on a new house for years. Don't miss them.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
windtech007 said:
We run #12 to get away from voltage drop issues. Our inspector measures the actual length of conductor. One crew I worked with used #12 for the HR and the remainder in #14, we always passed.
To me, if a house is so large that voltage drop on some home runs is a concern, it's may be less expensive in both materials and labor to run one or two feeders to sub-panels.
 

ElectricianJeff

Senior Member
ptonsparky said:
I use to figure 40 minutes per opening + 4 hrs for the service. Start to finish. Only charged 1300 for a house back then, now I don't even price a service at that. I was also skinny & up two rungs on the step ladder before all the legs hit the floor.

Thanks, thats a great idea. I can now develop my own per opening time for future bids based on this project.

Jeff
 

wyreman

Senior Member
Location
SF CA USA
Occupation
electrical contractor
bbaumer said:
First off, I can't directly answer your question, sorry.

I did want to share this though.


One guy with a sack full of plastic boxes and a hammer, using his hammer as a tape measure nailing boxes on.
.
I do that too, and I use my elbow to layout the switches.:wink:
You guys have a good sense of uhmour:smile:
 

220/221

Senior Member
Location
AZ
We used a story pole. A 1x2 with marks, protruding screws/nails or holes for the keel marker for switches, outlets and counter top outlets etc.

That avoids pulling the tape out 50 times.
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
220/221 said:
We used a story pole. A 1x2 with marks, protruding screws/nails or holes for the keel marker for switches, outlets and counter top outlets etc.

That avoids pulling the tape out 50 times.


Me too, but I make only two story poles, one for switches, 42" and one for receptacles, 12", I install my counter receptacles same height as my switches... I basically sit the box right on top of the story pole and hammer away, this only works in brand new houses by the way... ;) :grin:
 

JohnE

Senior Member
Location
Milford, MA
stickboy1375 said:
Me too, but I make only two story poles, one for switches, 42" and one for receptacles, 12", I install my counter receptacles same height as my switches... I basically sit the box right on top of the story pole and hammer away, this only works in brand new houses by the way... ;) :grin:

One 72" story pole for me with marks at 16". 45". 56". 16 to the bottom of receptacles, 45 to the bottom of switches and all countertop boxes, and 56 for t-stats, under cabinet lights (high on purpose so the cabinet guys can lower them a bit and there are no holes to patch). The purpose of a 6' story pole is to lay out maximum distance between receptacles. 6' from an opening, 12' between. But really this is only for the few customers pinching pennies. Otherwise I place them where I think they are usefull and have a few more than necessary. And that 6' stick is great for centering lights in all but the largest rooms.
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
j_erickson said:
One 72" story pole for me with marks at 16". 45". 56". 16 to the bottom of receptacles, 45 to the bottom of switches and all countertop boxes, and 56 for t-stats, under cabinet lights (high on purpose so the cabinet guys can lower them a bit and there are no holes to patch). The purpose of a 6' story pole is to lay out maximum distance between receptacles. 6' from an opening, 12' between. But really this is only for the few customers pinching pennies. Otherwise I place them where I think they are usefull and have a few more than necessary. And that 6' stick is great for centering lights in all but the largest rooms.


I like the all in one idea, just I think it would be a PITA doing receptacles, for me anyway, I usually just nail up the boxes near the breaks in the wall first, measure the remaining space in between, divide by 12, thats how many receptacles I need by code, than take that # and re divide it by the original remaining space to space them equally apart from each other.

I know it sounds like alot of extra work, but i'm quite used to it, and i'm a T&M king anyhow... :grin:
 

JohnE

Senior Member
Location
Milford, MA
stickboy1375 said:
I like the all in one idea, just I think it would be a PITA doing receptacles, for me anyway, I usually just nail up the boxes near the breaks in the wall first, measure the remaining space in between, divide by 12, thats how many receptacles I need by code, than take that # and re divide it by the original remaining space to space them equally apart from each other.

I know it sounds like alot of extra work, but i'm quite used to it, and i'm a T&M king anyhow... :grin:

To be clear, I mark the entire house out before installing any boxes, including ceiling boxes and recessed light locations. Then we mount all the boxes, then drill all the holes, and off we run. I know you do not do a lot of new construction, so I understand you'd do things differently. Heck, I'd understand you doing things differently even if you did do a lot of new construction.:grin:
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
j_erickson said:
To be clear, I mark the entire house out before installing any boxes, including ceiling boxes and recessed light locations. Then we mount all the boxes, then drill all the holes, and off we run. I know you do not do a lot of new construction, so I understand you'd do things differently. Heck, I'd understand you doing things differently even if you did do a lot of new construction.:grin:


I work almost the same, I mark the entire house out, nail it up, drill and wire the 2nd floor, then drill and wire the first floor, (only to give me a break from drilling) I get bored quite quickly doing the same task, so I have to jump around a little.
 

JohnE

Senior Member
Location
Milford, MA
stickboy1375 said:
I work almost the same, I mark the entire house out, nail it up, drill and wire the 2nd floor, then drill and wire the first floor, (only to give me a break from drilling) I get bored quite quickly doing the same task, so I have to jump around a little.

I do it one floor at a time, too. Some houses take almost a week per floor. With that said, why do you carry 2 story poles? Again for clarity, I use the story pole for the initial marking, and boxes are nailed to match the bottom hole to the mark. On countertops or where any 2 boxes are near each other, we measure off the floor to the center of the bottom hole to make sure boxes are the same height. And on remodels, we actually break out a laser when necessary. Such as last week on a couple hundred year old house that was moved at least once.
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
j_erickson said:
I do it one floor at a time, too. Some houses take almost a week per floor. With that said, why do you carry 2 story poles? Again for clarity, I use the story pole for the initial marking, and boxes are nailed to match the bottom hole to the mark. On countertops or where any 2 boxes are near each other, we measure off the floor to the center of the bottom hole to make sure boxes are the same height. And on remodels, we actually break out a laser when necessary. Such as last week on a couple hundred year old house that was moved at least once.


I use the story poles to actually mount the box, I sit the box right on top of the story pole... thats why I have two, one for receptacles, one for switches, I obviously do all the switches on one floor first then go do the receptacles... just a habit I picked up... :grin:
 

JohnE

Senior Member
Location
Milford, MA
stickboy1375 said:
I use the story poles to actually mount the box, I sit the box right on top of the story pole... thats why I have two, one for receptacles, one for switches, I obviously do all the switches on one floor first then go do the receptacles... just a habit I picked up... :grin:

Well, we have slightly different styles.:grin:
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
j_erickson said:
Well, we have slightly different styles.:grin:


I just find it a pain to try and match up bottoms of boxes with lines on studs.

To be honest, should just hire a helper... not sure why a mechanic has to nail up boxes, drill holes and unload and load up the truck everyday... seems like a waste of someone's money, should have seen how many miles I walked today snaking wires by myself from a 3rd floor to a basement crawl space... oh, yeah. lifes good.
 

windtech007

Member
Location
New Mexico
peter d said:
I'm still laughing.....an inspector who measures circuits....good one...what a country. :D

He actually follows the romex from the panel to ......say the kitchen with his tape measure. Up the walls, down the walls, around corners and then does the math. Over three percent you fail.
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
windtech007 said:
He actually follows the romex from the panel to ......say the kitchen with his tape measure. Up the walls, down the walls, around corners and then does the math. Over three percent you fail.

What do you fail?

The NEC has no such requirement, if there a local requirement?
 
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