Wiring a New House

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Sonny Boy

Member
Location
Washington
Got a job wiring a new 2700 sq ft home. Need some pointers. What?s the mounting height of switch boxes and counter top receptacles from the floor to the box. What size box do you use for the range receptacle? 4-11/16?

The home has I-joists with pre-punched openings. Guess I?d use a hammer to knock them out. Are there any problems with using romex staples in I-joists?

I plan to install a 30/40 space 200 amp SQ D Homeline Service Panel. I looked at the 40 space one and it?s too long . Right choice?

Owner wants about 12 can lights installed. What?s your experience with can lights?

The house has 2 motor operated sky lights. Ill have to find out the load for them

Any other pointers you can think of?
 

Sonny Boy

Member
Location
Washington
RADHAZMAN said:
One point I would like to make is a home of 2700 square feet would have the circuits loaded up if only a 30 circuit load center was installed.

#30 space for wide cbs, 40 space if using mini-cbs. I counted 27 spaces needed to wire the house. Electric furnace, heat pump, range, dryer, water heater, well pump, etc. That gives me 5 circuits for general lighting.
 

big vic

Senior Member
I don't understand how a 40 circuit panel could be "too long" if it is a new house

Is there a garage?

How many bathrooms?

Load on skylights is small. Check the skylights during rough. They have special wiring(Control panel, Rain sensor etc.)

I put switches and counter receps 46" to the top A.F.F
 
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celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
While not a violation, many inspectors "frown" upon the use of tandem/mini CBs in new work.
 

iwirehouses

Senior Member
I like receptacles at 18 inches, switches at 48 inches, and devices over a countertop at 42 inches. All measured from the bottom of the box, but there are a few common ways electricians do it. For the range receptacle, use a big two gang device box (plastic or metal) for a flush mount. I've used can lights a bunch and love them. Throw 12 on a 15 amp circuit, or run a 20 amp just for the hell of it, I would.
 

dnem

Senior Member
Location
Ohio
Cavie said:
Sounds like you are in over your head.

After years of experience on Commercial and Industrial installs, I remember the first house that I tries to tackle with the help of my salesman brother. . Talk about "over your head", I felt like I had 10 thumbs on my hands. . I didn't have a clue about so many things.

David
 

JohnE

Senior Member
Location
Milford, MA
celtic said:
While not a violation, many inspectors "frown" upon the use of tandem/mini CBs in new work.

Using 1 mini offsets the savings of a 30/40 vs. 40/40 for me. I pay $10 more for a 40/40 BR series panel. A mini cost me about $10 more than 2 singles.
 

celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
Some inspectors see the mini/tandem issue as a result of poor planning..aka inexperience or sloppiness...NOT a violation, but a pretty good indicator that a violation can easily be found elsewhere ;)
 

benmin

Senior Member
Location
Maine
Occupation
Master Electrician
Sonny Boy said:
The home has I-joists with pre-punched openings. Guess I?d use a hammer to knock them out. Are there any problems with using romex staples in I-joists?

If the I-joists have straping nailed to them for sheetrock, It's easier to run your romex between the straping below the joists instead of knocking out the pre-punched openings.
If you do need to run romex through the I joist, You'll find that then tend to not line up from one joist to another. So if you are going to run long lengths, I'ld drill new holes in a straight line so that you don't risk burning the insulation by pulling it through a zig zag pattern.
Staples can be used but be wary that they penetrate through to the other side (don't staple your own wires by accident). They also don't hold very well
 

Sonny Boy

Member
Location
Washington
big vic said:
I don't understand how a 40 circuit panel could be "too long" if it is a new house

I'm mounting the panel on the concrete foundation. The 40 space I looked needs 6 fasteners and the 30 space takes four. Am I being cheap?

big vic said:
I put switches and counter receps 46" to the top A.F.F

Thanks,
Mike
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Not to tell you what to do, but shoot a piece of 3/4 plywood to the foundation first... I usually use 32" x 48" for a standard install... Use pressure treated if your not going to paint the plywood... But this sounds like a BIG learning experience for you...
 

Sonny Boy

Member
Location
Washington
stickboy1375 said:
Not to tell you what to do, but shoot a piece of 3/4 plywood to the foundation first... I usually use 32" x 48" for a standard install... Use pressure treated if your not going to paint the plywood

Sounds nice but it's overkill here.

stickboy1375 said:
But this sounds like a BIG learning experience for you...

I've done this before. Except I was a lot younger then.

Thanks for help,
Mike
 
Sometimes inexperience leads to being "cheap". One of the issues I see is that the difference in money and a little extra labor sacrifices a quality install...some would call this being 'cost effective'.

Remember you may be the future installer for more circuitry and it would be an interesting story telling the customer why you did not install a large enough panel.
 

growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
Sonny Boy said:
I'm mounting the panel on the concrete foundation. The 40 space I looked needs 6 fasteners and the 30 space takes four. Am I being cheap?


Most places won't let you mount to the concrete. You would have to use the 3/4 pressure treated. Overkill or not.

Call your inspection department before mounting to the concrete.:confused:
 

Sonny Boy

Member
Location
Washington
growler said:
Most places won't let you mount to the concrete. You would have to use the 3/4 pressure treated. Overkill or not.:confused:

This is news to me. Is that an NEC violation?

growler said:
Call your inspection department before mounting to the concrete.:confused:

Passed two inspections already with the panel mounted to the concrete.
 
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