what method --driving ground rods?

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Mr.Sparkle

Mr.Sparkle

Senior Member
Location
Jersey Shore
vinster888 said:
(G) Rod and Pipe Electrodes. The electrode shall be installed
such that at least 2.44 m (8 ft) of length is in contact
with the soil. It shall be driven to a depth of not less than
2.44 m (8 ft) except that, where rock bottom is encountered,
the electrode shall be driven at an oblique angle not
to exceed 45 degrees from the vertical or, where rock bottom
is encountered at an angle up to 45 degrees, the electrode
shall be permitted to be buried in a trench that is at
least 750 mm (30 in.) deep. The upper end of the electrode
shall be flush with or below ground level unless the aboveground
end and the grounding electrode conductor attachment
are protected against physical damage as specified in
250.10.

so the GRVAD is a fully necessary item at times.
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Not if you have an Al. An Al is an acceptable replacement for a GRVAD.
 
PetrosA

PetrosA

Senior Member
Location
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
vinster888 said:
(G) Rod and Pipe Electrodes. The electrode shall be installed
such that at least 2.44 m (8 ft) of length is in contact
with the soil. It shall be driven to a depth of not less than
2.44 m (8 ft) except that, where rock bottom is encountered,
the electrode shall be driven at an oblique angle not
to exceed 45 degrees from the vertical or, where rock bottom
is encountered at an angle up to 45 degrees, the electrode
shall be permitted to be buried in a trench that is at
least 750 mm (30 in.) deep. The upper end of the electrode
shall be flush with or below ground level unless the aboveground
end and the grounding electrode conductor attachment
are protected against physical damage as specified in
250.10.

so the GRVAD is a fully necessary item at times.
Click to expand...

I pity the fool that hits rock bottom at 7.5' and has to pull the rod out :grin:
 
LarryFine

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
480sparky said:
I've got $5 that the Hilti will make the top of the rod flush.
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Of course, the rod may be 1" thick after that, or maybe S-shaped.

Added: By the way, if I got 7.5' driven and hit rock, I'd try to bend over the top foot.
 
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bbaumer

bbaumer

Senior Member
Location
Indiana
walkerj said:
Water:D

Sorry, can't resist!
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Hey, it works.

Scoop about one shovel full of dirt. Pour in water. Push rod into ground working it up and down a bit.

I can usually push them in down to last foot or so (lose leverage about then) unless I hit a rock without much trouble. Hammer 'em the rest of the way.

No fancy tools needed. Silty clay soils in these parts.

A couple of advantages to this are it is quick and if you do hit a rock at 4 or 5' down you can easily pull the rod and move it over 6" or whatever. Good luck on pulling the rod if you pounded it in up to that point and you hit a large rock.
 
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S

shockin

Senior Member
I am a big fan of the Erico driver. Roughly half the ground rods we drive are for temp services when no power is available so a hammer drill isn't practicle. If we are doing 100 10' rods for a ground ring then a hammer drill is the only option.

We use to use fence post driver until I watched an employee run a 5/8" ground rod right thru his hand. He lifted the driver up a little to high and when he came down will all his force the driver missed the ground rod and the rod went thru his hand. I use to have some good pictures of it, I'll have to look for them.

We bought the erico's for everyone the next day.
 
LarryFine

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
shockin said:
We use to use fence post driver until I watched an employee run a 5/8" ground rod right thru his hand. He lifted the driver up a little to high and when he came down will all his force the driver missed the ground rod and the rod went thru his hand. I use to have some good pictures of it, I'll have to look for them.
Click to expand...
I guess we don't have to ask how you came up with your member name. :cool:
 
H

hurk27

Senior Member
Location
Portage, Indiana NEC: 2008
shockin said:
I am a big fan of the Erico driver. Roughly half the ground rods we drive are for temp services when no power is available so a hammer drill isn't practicle. If we are doing 100 10' rods for a ground ring then a hammer drill is the only option.

We use to use fence post driver until I watched an employee run a 5/8" ground rod right thru his hand. He lifted the driver up a little to high and when he came down will all his force the driver missed the ground rod and the rod went thru his hand. I use to have some good pictures of it, I'll have to look for them.
We bought the erico's for everyone the next day.
Click to expand...


Just don't post it here with out a warning, some might not want to see it:cool:
 
J

Jps1006

Member
Location
Northern IL
I second the water, and then finish it off with a sledge if needed.

I have the fancy power tools too. I'll take a pint of water and race anyone here in IL.
 
2

220/221

Senior Member
Location
AZ
I got this in an email today



groundrod.jpg
 
walkerj

walkerj

Senior Member
Location
Baton Rouge
Well, there are no rocks here:cool:

I have used an Estwing a couple times, but I usually stand on it the last foot or so.

I drove a 10' x 3/4" rod last Saturday for my Dad and all I used was one 12oz bottle of water:D
 
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