Cutting Rigid metal conduit.

[K8MHZ]

Cut, ream, thread without effort, it auto oils the die as well.

I have only used one a couple of times.

I have spent hours using them. Yes siree, Bob, that's the cat's meow. Especially if someone else sets it up and keeps it clean.

Pluses:

Makes fast cuts

Makes precise cuts

Makes perfect threads

Easy to use reamer

Threaded end of pipe looks factory professional

Down side:

Not really portable, very heavy, usually set up in one spot and not moved
Messy.

To make the nice threads there is a cutting oil bath and an oil/metal shaving pan to collect the oily debris. Sometimes the oil doesn't like to stay in the pan

They can only cut almost straight pieces of pipe, so the pipe has to be cut and threaded before it's bent. That is as much of an art as it is a science. That fact makes the big benders useless for those that can't layout rigid pipe accurately. Ponies can do the threading as the last step, usually.

They can be used to cut and thread plumbing pipe. Why didn't I put that under the plus column? Let the plumbers use your nice threader for a while. Then you may understand.

Large size makes them a chore to transport. Especially since they always seem to leak oil no matter where they are.

 

[kwired]

I have spent hours using them. Yes siree, Bob, that's the cat's meow. Especially if someone else sets it up and keeps it clean.

Pluses:

Makes fast cuts

Makes precise cuts

Makes perfect threads

Easy to use reamer

Threaded end of pipe looks factory professional

Down side:

Not really portable, very heavy, usually set up in one spot and not moved
Messy.

To make the nice threads there is a cutting oil bath and an oil/metal shaving pan to collect the oily debris. Sometimes the oil doesn't like to stay in the pan

They can only cut almost straight pieces of pipe, so the pipe has to be cut and threaded before it's bent. That is as much of an art as it is a science. That fact makes the big benders useless for those that can't layout rigid pipe accurately. Ponies can do the threading as the last step, usually.

They can be used to cut and thread plumbing pipe. Why didn't I put that under the plus column? Let the plumbers use your nice threader for a while. Then you may understand.

Large size makes them a chore to transport. Especially since they always seem to leak oil no matter where they are.

I will set it up and keep it clean if you purchase it for me

Your plusses still outweigh your minuses unless there isn't much threading involved on a project - then a hand threader is often still pretty logical.

 

[iwire]

It is a beast but we have a truck with a power tailgate so life is good.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

I'm curious, do you allow them to cut strut with a portaband or do you require them to use a chop saw or shear for a perfectly square cut also? ....

I don't thread strut so not as big of a deal, but if there is any quantity to be cut, it will be cut on a band saw in our fab shop. A porta-band would be used in the field if our work permit lets us use electrical tools...often it doesn't so all of the work requiring power tools is done in the fab shop. A chop saw with an abrasive blade would require a hot work permit and a fire watch and would not be used.

 

[kwired]

Hitting steel nails with a steel hammer head sometimes creates sparks - hot work permit needed for this activity also?:blink:

 

[Cow]

I don't thread strut so not as big of a deal, but if there is any quantity to be cut, it will be cut on a band saw in our fab shop. A porta-band would be used in the field if our work permit lets us use electrical tools...often it doesn't so all of the work requiring power tools is done in the fab shop. A chop saw with an abrasive blade would require a hot work permit and a fire watch and would not be used.

I find it interesting that you require square cuts on threaded conduit but not strut. What kind of projects do you work on that don't allow electricians to use electric power tools?

 

[jumper]

I find it interesting that you require square cuts on threaded conduit but not strut. What kind of projects do you work on that don't allow electricians to use electric power tools?

According to his mod bio, petro-chemical plants. Places that go boom when sparks fly.

 

[Fulthrotl]

I find it interesting that you require square cuts on threaded conduit but not strut. What kind of projects do you work on that don't allow electricians to use electric power tools?

refineries are the first thing that comes to my mind.

anything in a classified location would need a hot work permit.
and lots of areas that aren't listed as explosion hazards will require
hot work, and a fire watch, for welding for instance.
LAX comes to mind, for example. all steel studs must be certified welded,
and a fire watch with permit is required.

edit: i've worked in refineries where they go thru your tool bucket when
you clear in, and you leave hammers in the car, and they give you a brass
or lead hammer. no sparks.

personally, i've found lead claw hammers to be worthless for pulling out nails,
unless, of course, they are lead nails.

 

[jumper]

refineries are the first thing that comes to my mind.

anything in a classified location would need a hot work permit.
and lots of areas that aren't listed as explosion hazards will require
hot work, and a fire watch, for welding for instance.
LAX comes to mind, for example. all steel studs must be certified welded,
and a fire watch with permit is required.

I spent 3 months working in a Transco natural gas line pumping station. Oh what fun that was.

 

[Fulthrotl]

I spent 3 months working in a Transco natural gas line pumping station. Oh what fun that was.

yup. no hammers, power tools, powder actuated stuff, and half the time, you get a wooden folding rule.

welcome to 1936. pass the star drill and brass hammer, will you? i have to make a hole in concrete.

 

[kwired]

yup. no hammers, power tools, powder actuated stuff, and half the time, you get a wooden folding rule.

welcome to 1936. pass the star drill and brass hammer, will you? i have to make a hole in concrete.

Depending on how big of a hole and how thick and consistency of the concrete - you may ask for a star drill and ten brass hammers

 

[don_resqcapt19]

I find it interesting that you require square cuts on threaded conduit but not strut. What kind of projects do you work on that don't allow electricians to use electric power tools?

The plant I normally work in is almost all Class I, Division 2 or Class II, Division 2.
As far as the square cuts on the strut, if I can see it is not square by just looking at it, the guy gets a talking to...if he can't cut it the way I want it, he doesn't have to work for me.

I also need the guys to be able to layout the conduit runs and bend, cut and thread multiple pieces of conduit with one trip to the fab area...often a couple of hundred yards from where the conduit is being installed.

 

[ADub]

The plant I normally work in is almost all Class I, Division 2 or Class II, Division 2.
As far as the square cuts on the strut, if I can see it is not square by just looking at it, the guy gets a talking to...if he can't cut it the way I want it, he doesn't have to work for me.

I also need the guys to be able to layout the conduit runs and bend, cut and thread multiple pieces of conduit with one trip to the fab area...often a couple of hundred yards from where the conduit is being installed.

This should be standard fare for all industry experienced journeymen.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

This should be standard fare for all industry experienced journeymen.

It should be, but not too many can really do it very well.

 

[ThunderFoot]

I like my 535 over my 700. Threading with the 700 you hafta thread the pipe then reverse it to get the die off of the pipe. With the 535, just lift the handle, done. I think that the 700 is slower.

 

[gadfly56]

It is a beast but we have a truck with a power tailgate so life is good.

At my last job the techs just muscled it into the back of the van. They'd have killed for a lift gate!

 

[don_resqcapt19]

I like my 535 over my 700. Threading with the 700 you hafta thread the pipe then reverse it to get the die off of the pipe. With the 535, just lift the handle, done. I think that the 700 is slower.

We have couple of setups with a 535 mounted to the top of a rolling gang box, and a Chicago bender bolted to the end of the gang box. Most of the conduit is 3/4" so it works out great. I think the Chicago bender is faster for detail bending 3/4 as compared to a 555.

 

[Strathead]

One person touched on this earlier about a discontinued Milwaukee saw. Well DeWalt makes one and others do to. I have shown people over and over that this is BY FAR the best way to cut all types of metal. Super fast, perfect cut, no sparks, very little deburring,etc. Cut a piece of 4000 Wiremold and it doesn't burn the paint, but it is a perfectly square cut. I can cut a piece of 4" rigid, including chucking it up measuring and pulling it out in under 30 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW872-14-Inch-Multi-Cutter-Saw/dp/B0000302QS

 

[kwired]

One person touched on this earlier about a discontinued Milwaukee saw. Well DeWalt makes one and others do to. I have shown people over and over that this is BY FAR the best way to cut all types of metal. Super fast, perfect cut, no sparks, very little deburring,etc. Cut a piece of 4000 Wiremold and it doesn't burn the paint, but it is a perfectly square cut. I can cut a piece of 4" rigid, including chucking it up measuring and pulling it out in under 30 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW872-14-Inch-Multi-Cutter-Saw/dp/B0000302QS

30 seconds is not enough time for me to even lift 4" RMC onto any saw

 

[Fulthrotl]

30 seconds is not enough time for me to even lift 4" RMC onto any saw

i wasn't going to say anything, but it took longer than that for me to read it, and click on the link.:dunce: