Raintight fittings and emt

[Solar_ice_caps]

Needing to replace the following run with rain tight fittings and just want to make sure my logic is sound:



Plan is to replace the LB with a RGD version with threads, replace all screw connectors (yellow) with rain tight compression connectors, and replace the 90 with a bend.

I assume I need to replace the connector stubbing into the wall as well, hence the arrow.

Any easier way?

 

[jaggedben]

You could use a threaded pulling elbow if you can't get a 90deg bend in that space.

like this: https://lhdottie.com/pulling-ells/pe2

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

You could use a threaded pulling elbow if you can't get a 90deg bend in that space.

like this: https://lhdottie.com/pulling-ells/pe2

and then thread in additional RT connectors into that?

These are similar to the ones I could get at the local electric supply store: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Electrical-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Rain-Tight-Connector-26252/100572360

 

[hillbilly1]

That LB may already be threaded, I’ve seen them dual rated for rigid or emt.

 

[tortuga]

If you can move that disco a smidge to the right you could just bend a 90 in the conduit?
I use EMT (NPS straight thread) with/RT fittings into threaded hubs (NTP tapered thread) like a conduit LB often, and my local AHJ's allow it.
However...
Technically EMT RT fittings are only UL listed for use with a locknut (not a hub) and I have ran into an AHJ whom enforces that, my work around was to first thread the locknut onto the fitting and then O-ring then the LB or bell box (NTP threaded). I think now at least one manufacturer makes tapered thread (NTP) EMT fittings.

 

[electrofelon]

IMO you dont need a RT fitting in the back of the LB. The nose of the LB and around the LB should be sealed with sillicone. IF inside your wall is a wet location, you have bigger problems.

 

[LarryFine]

Are the enclosure entries below energizes parts?

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

That LB may already be threaded, I’ve seen them dual rated for rigid or emt.

It is not threaded but id be happy to be able to return it because it was expensive

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

If you can move that disco a smidge to the right you could just bend a 90 in the conduit?
I use EMT (NPS straight thread) with/RT fittings into threaded hubs (NTP tapered thread) like a conduit LB often, and my local AHJ's allow it.
However...
Technically EMT RT fittings are only UL listed for use with a locknut (not a hub) and I have ran into an AHJ whom enforces that, my work around was to first thread the locknut onto the fitting and then O-ring then the LB or bell box (NTP threaded). I think now at least one manufacturer makes tapered thread (NTP) EMT fittings.
View attachment 2569180

That was my original plan and assuming I may have to move the disco over there are a few inches. To my knowledge there is nothing restricting a minimum separation between boxes other than what I need for the fittings.

Thank you for the info about thread shape as well.

I was going to do what you described but leave the locknut off, not sure what purpose it would serve at that point. Would also tape the threads.

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

IMO you dont need a RT fitting in the back of the LB. The nose of the LB and around the LB should be sealed with sillicone. IF inside your wall is a wet location, you have bigger problems.

Good point and agreed

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

Are the enclosure entries below energizes parts?

Not sure I understand your meaning?

 

[electrofelon]

Are the enclosure entries below energizes parts?

Not sure I understand your meaning?

The general rule (312.2) is that only conduit entries above live parts need to use fittings listed for wet locations (side question: does 312 apply to a pull out type disconnect? ). However I think even if below live parts, although it woudnt be required by 312, I believe the EMT article would require the raintight fitting....

 

[tom baker]

use a nipple between disc and cabinet on right, LTFM conduit on the left with a 90 at the top.
It could be done in all PVC flex or rigid

 

[letgomywago]

use a nipple between disc and cabinet on right, LTFM conduit on the left with a 90 at the top.
It could be done in all PVC flex or rigid

I'd back up doing it in pvc it's a short run

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

use a nipple between disc and cabinet on right, LTFM conduit on the left with a 90 at the top.
It could be done in all PVC flex or rigid

I'd back up doing it in pvc it's a short run

Unfortunately the AHJ/Utility won’t allow any flexible conduit for wall work for a PV install. And if PVC it needs to be sch 80…

 

[letgomywago]

Unfortunately the AHJ/Utility won’t allow any flexible conduit for wall work for a PV install. And if PVC it needs to be sch 80…

80 isn't hard to work with. If given the choice for 2 ft of conduit I'd pick it over emt any day. I'd even want to use a metal rigid nipple vs emt for the panel to disconnect.

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

80 isn't hard to work with. If given the choice for 2 ft of conduit I'd pick it over emt any day. I'd even want to use a metal rigid nipple vs emt for the panel to disconnect.

Thanks for this feedback. A few questions:

Do you have to use sch80 pvc specific fittings (lbs, male adapters, etc) when using sch80 piping?

I’ve seen where guys like to use things like a Meyers hub threading in with pvc when going into the top of a box. Do you have to do the same thing going into the sides or can you just use a male adapter with a locknut to be outdoor rated/raintight?

For the RGD nipple, I assume you mean the short pieces that are threaded on both ends. How do you secure them to the box and make them raintight as well?

 

[jaggedben]

Unfortunately the AHJ/Utility won’t allow any flexible conduit for wall work for a PV install. And if PVC it needs to be sch 80…

That's nonsense. I'm sorry.

 

[letgomywago]

Thanks for this feedback. A few questions:

Do you have to use sch80 pvc specific fittings (lbs, male adapters, etc) when using sch80 piping?

I’ve seen where guys like to use things like a Meyers hub threading in with pvc when going into the top of a box. Do you have to do the same thing going into the sides or can you just use a male adapter with a locknut to be outdoor rated/raintight?

For the RGD nipple, I assume you mean the short pieces that are threaded on both ends. How do you secure them to the box and make them raintight as well?

Pvc for the factory bends is all you need to be careful of.

Threaded rigid doesn't need to be rain tight. Only threadless.

 

[Solar_ice_caps]

Pvc for the factory bends is all you need to be careful of.

Threaded rigid doesn't need to be rain tight. Only threadless.

So for the straight RGD nipple, do you use a coupler on each end outside with chase nipples inside the boxes?