Back stab receptacles

Rick 0920 said:
What I find ironic is that I know guys that are against back-wiring of devices (I am too), but they use WAGO connectors instead of wirenuts. I've replaced a few melted WAGO connectors on 20 amp circuits. I agree that they have their uses. I love them for low amp applications like changing ballasts. But I feel they are the same as back-wiring a device.
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Same here only used wago' connectors on ballast. Were handy where there was a garbage red bodine in two lamp luminares. I always date code ballasts when I installed them. So.many of the expensive garbage bodine ballast went bad before they were 5 to years old. Finally convinced my company to stop using them in over 25 electrical rooms. 12 story building had dual 13,200 volt service & three 2,000 KW Diesel gen sets so never lost power. Recently read that Ideal makes a wago type that accepts #10 guage wire. Was taught when using dependable wire nuts to strip the wires at least 7/8" then twist them with large side cutters then trim ends, install wire nut then twist the wire nut with side cutters until you have at least halve a turn of insulation, install wire nut then install quality tape around wire nut down 1" onto insulation. Did this where 480 volt motor pecker heads were filled with water but did not ground out. Also this way works great on machines that have a lot if vibrations ( hammer mills, crushers, vibrating screens etc.
 
Besoeker3 said:
I like that - deranged serial killer. We used crimp connectors like this :

https://imgur.com/4pnt5BS

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Whether you use crimped on terminal or not you are still tightening down a set screw to provide connecting pressure on the device you landed the conductor on for this application. There are control panel components out there that you can just push a solid conductor into, but probably even more common is a spring clamp connection that you may have to press a release mechanism, insert conductor, then let go of the release mechanism, utilizing similar connection as the "Wago lever nut" connectors use.
 
I think that it was the 2020 cycle that we got a requirement for the proper torquing of connections for receptacles and switches. The reasoning was that 10,000 connections were tested (though none of them had failed) and a large percentage were found to be at the improper torque. This is a totally un-inspectable thing. One area inspector said, at an inspector's meeting, that he requires that the electrician show him the torque screwdriver that he uses. I told him that I was going to buy a torque screwdriver just for the next time that I worked in his town, and when he asked me to show it to him, I was going to say, "absolutely". I would then hold it up, still in the blister pack that it came in, and that would be just as good an inspection as what he was doing.:LOL:
How can you make such an issue of the screw connections in a codebook that still allows backstabbing? One of the gratifying things I have found in 29 years of inspecting is that 85% of the electricians out there recognize it as a "lesser" wiring method and do not do it.
 
DBZ said:
I think that it was the 2020 cycle that we got a requirement for the proper torquing of connections for receptacles and switches. The reasoning was that 10,000 connections were tested (though none of them had failed) and a large percentage were found to be at the improper torque. This is a totally un-inspectable thing. One area inspector said, at an inspector's meeting, that he requires that the electrician show him the torque screwdriver that he uses. I told him that I was going to buy a torque screwdriver just for the next time that I worked in his town, and when he asked me to show it to him, I was going to say, "absolutely". I would then hold it up, still in the blister pack that it came in, and that would be just as good an inspection as what he was doing.:LOL:
How can you make such an issue of the screw connections in a codebook that still allows backstabbing? One of the gratifying things I have found in 29 years of inspecting is that 85% of the electricians out there recognize it as a "lesser" wiring method and do not do it.
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Torqueing was always required, if product listing/instructions required it. NEC sort of has no good reason to mention this as 110.3(B) already had it covered.
 
nizak said:
Went to a service call where the homeowner was attempting to change a receptacle . He had removed the device ( power still on) and shorted out the hot to neutral conductors.

Called saying that power was out in the living room and bedroom but no breakers had tripped.

First thing I checked was the breaker and it was supplying 120V

Figured a GFCI had tripped somewhere. Not a single one in the house.

Started tracing a path where power was off and led me to a living room receptacle. It had 6 wires stabbed in the back and one showed considerable discoloration and overheating.

Apparently the fault caused just enough arcing at that point to break the wire.

I randomly pulled a number of other devices throughout the house and found several that showed signs of overheating.

40+ years of use with several window AC’s being used over that time.

Ended up getting a job replacing all devices throughout the entire house.
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It's not just on the rear-end, but sustained heavy load is a real problem on the front-end heating for household outlets too. EV charger's 15A cord plug melting is a commonly reported issue for EV charging with residential grade outlet.
 
Birken Vogt said:
I am curious is this discussion just limited to our little clique here. And 90% of tract homes are still getting backstabbed by somebody who has never read a forum in his life nor cares that they exist.
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It is the teenager apprentice doesnt know and tail light warranty company doesn't care. It's just the way it is.

All real chefs will refuse to use freeze dried hamburger and velvetia to make burritos but guess what most fast food burritos orders in America are.
 
kwired said:
Whether you use crimped on terminal or not you are still tightening down a set screw to provide connecting pressure on the device you landed the conductor on for this application. There are control panel components out there that you can just push a solid conductor into, but probably even more common is a spring clamp connection that you may have to press a release mechanism, insert conductor, then let go of the release mechanism, utilizing similar connection as the "Wago lever nut" connectors use.
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But a LOT better than back stabs which is what the topic is about.
 
kwired said:
Receptacles have cord plugs stabbed into the front all the time :unsure:
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I could never figure this out either.

There are several competing style of trailer connector. 6 pin round going out of fashion. 7 pin round used on semi trucks and stuff. And 7 pin flat called RV style. The flat pin style is known to be problematic with pin contact, while the round ones are known to be reliable.

They also make all kinds of round connectors for power like the MC4 and certain Molex ones.

Yet, they can't get a round wire copper of a known diameter to work reliably in a receptacle after 40 years experience.

1746314406556.jpeg1746314395015.jpeg
images
 
Avoid the "back stabbies". It's trouble waiting to happen. I saw at Home Depot the other day there is a new "lever lock" type connector/outlet and heard it works pretty well. Works like WAGO connectors. 15 and 20A rated both.
 
herding_cats said:
Avoid the "back stabbies". It's trouble waiting to happen. I saw at Home Depot the other day there is a new "lever lock" type connector/outlet and heard it works pretty well. Works like WAGO connectors. 15 and 20A rated both.
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Our "old hat" electrician put some of these (Hubbell, I think) through the wringer at 20/120, 30/120, and 30/208 not long before he retired. We were expecting him to invent several new terms and phrases for how terrible they were (he was, after all, former Navy), but surprisingly enough he was not only impressed, but suggested making them our standard should the price become more reasonable.
 
ModbusMan said:
Our "old hat" electrician put some of these (Hubbell, I think) through the wringer at 20/120, 30/120, and 30/208 not long before he retired. We were expecting him to invent several new terms and phrases for how terrible they were (he was, after all, former Navy), but surprisingly enough he was not only impressed, but suggested making them our standard should the price become more reasonable.
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Yeah I think Hubble makes them. Haven't tried them yet but will soon.
 
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