208v to 120/240v

Besoeker3 said:
Indeed. Which, in my opinion, is not really just not really a little less heat. Sorry Mr Jreaf..........
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In a heating appliance, the actual surface temperature of the heating element is probably 1200deg F, so at 208V would be 800F, still a LOT more than the air temperature you cook with. So other than the time it takes to change the air temperature in the oven, it’s not that relevant. Ultimately, the only consistent effect is it’s recovery time after opening a door, or convection losses through the walls. Most people don’t notice.
 
Jraef said:
In a heating appliance, the actual surface temperature of the heating element is probably 1200deg F, so at 208V would be 800F, still a LOT more than the air temperature you cook with. So other than the time it takes to change the air temperature in the oven, it’s not that relevant. Ultimately, the only consistent effect is it’s recovery time after opening a door, or convection losses through the walls. Most people don’t notice.
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I still disagree with you. Note the comment that LarryFine posted - 75%
 
I am shocked that we are on page two discussing deep theory when the bottom line is that a Buck Boost transformer is not an acceptable method of providing voltage adjustment to a varying load, of which, an RV certainly is.
 
Strathead said:
I am shocked that we are on page two discussing deep theory when the bottom line is that a Buck Boost transformer is not an acceptable method of providing voltage adjustment to a varying load, of which, an RV certainly is.
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Not a lot of depth to it. 240 V and 208V are just two different voltages. Or any voltage in between.
 
Strathead said:
I am shocked that we are on page two discussing deep theory when the bottom line is that a Buck Boost transformer is not an acceptable method of providing voltage adjustment to a varying load, of which, an RV certainly is.
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This is the Mike Holt forum. We love our tangents.

I disagree about the utility of buck/boost transformers. A buck/boost transformer is a fine method of changing voltage, and for a given mass of transformer will provide a more stable voltage under varying load then an isolation transformer.

You might be thinking of using buck/boost transformers to compensate for voltage drop. This is quite true. In a high voltage drop situation, the voltage will vary significantly with load. A buck/boost transformer can't fix that variation. (Unless it has some sort of tap changer; the utility company uses tap changing autotransformers to deal with voltage drop all the time.) A standard buck/boost transformer is not a good choice for dealing with voltage drop.

A standard autotransformer is also not a good choice for boosting 120/208 to 120/240 if the load needs the neutral.

And to bring it back to the OP, repeating what has already been said: for a normal RV load 120/208 and 120/240 are perfectly interchangeable because the RV electrical system is designed to use either interchangeably.

-Jonathan
 
winnie said:
And to bring it back to the OP, repeating what has already been said: for a normal RV load 120/208 and 120/240 are perfectly interchangeable because the RV electrical system is designed to use either interchangeably.

-Jonathan
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Maybe I'm an old faart but can you explain what an RV system is?
 
Strathead said:
I am shocked that we are on page two discussing deep theory when the bottom line is that a Buck Boost transformer is not an acceptable method of providing voltage adjustment to a varying load, of which, an RV certainly is.
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I am shocked that we’re still discussing voltage conversion when RVs clearly don’t need it.
 
Besoeker3 said:
Maybe I'm an old faart but can you explain what an RV system is?
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The typical RV has small version of the panel we have in our homes, sometimes called “split phase.” In a home, 240V loads are connected line to line, while 120V loads, line to neutral.
The key difference is that RVs only have 120V loads. Some connections in RV parks will have a receptacle that ultimately connects both line connections in the RV panel to the same source line (phase). The RV doesn’t have 240V line to line, but the user never notices.
 
retirede said:
The typical RV has small version of the panel we have in our homes, sometimes called “split phase.” In a home, 240V loads are connected line to line, while 120V loads, line to neutral.
The key difference is that RVs only have 120V loads. Some connections in RV parks will have a receptacle that ultimately connects both line connections in the RV panel to the same source line (phase). The RV doesn’t have 240V line to line, but the user never notices.
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For us (EU and UK) it is simpler for us. Domestic residences are just simpler - it is all 230Vac. Wouldn't that be easier than the US of America?
winnie said:
RV = 'Recreational Vehicle' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recreational_vehicle

I think 'caravan' is a more common term in the UK.

Large versions of these have 50A 120/(240 or 208)V power inlets. At a campground you pay for a parking spot with services such as electricity, and plug your RV in.
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Yes, I do know what an RV is in USA - you do that my dear wife is from Georgia? :)
 
Besoeker3 said:
For us (EU and UK) it is simpler for us. Domestic residences are just simpler - it is all 230Vac. Wouldn't that be easier than the US of America?
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When the revolution comes, I will make power companies deliver 240/208/120/120 hexaphase to everyone's home. Complexity builds character!

Besoeker3 said:
Yes, I do know what an RV is in USA - you do that my dear wife is from Georgia? :)
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And you've not had to install 120V 60Hz receptacles in your home?!?

*grin*
 
winnie said:
When the revolution comes, I will make power companies deliver 240/208/120/120 hexaphase to everyone's home. Complexity builds character!


And you've not had to install 120V 60Hz receptacles in your home?!?

*grin*
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Of course not !!
 
Besoeker3 said:
"The typical RV has small version of the panel we have in our homes,"
"RV = 'Recreational Vehicle"
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The poster was saying the RV/recreational vehicle has a panel (breaker/power panel) in it similar to what is in a home.
In every post here, using the term "RV", they were referring to a recreational vehicle.
 
Little Bill said:
The poster was saying the RV/recreational vehicle has a panel (breaker/power panel) in it similar to what is in a home.
In every post here, using the term "RV", they were referring to a recreational vehicle.
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One of the posters here called it an RV or a Caravan which is similar for the UK version. We wouldn't have used the in a house. C'est la vie.
 
winnie said:
as an autotransformer.
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Follow up question on what exactly you mean by the above. I would take it to mean that the n coils on a transformer are connected together in a manner equivalent to a single coil with n+1 connection points along its length. Is that what you mean?

Thanks,
Wayne
 
wwhitney said:
Follow up question on what exactly you mean by the above. I would take it to mean that the n coils on a transformer are connected together in a manner equivalent to a single coil with n+1 connection points along its length. Is that what you mean?

Thanks,
Wayne
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Not exactly.

In this polyphase case, I simply mean that the primary circuit and secondary circuit share some of the coils and that there is no galvanic isolation from primary to secondary. So you can have coils of different phases (coils on different cores) electrically in series.

-Jonathan
 
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