3/4 fur strip Any Sudgestions?

Status
Not open for further replies.
iwire said:
I disagree, please post the code section to support that.

The cables can touch the drywall as long as they are 1.25" away from the edge of the framing member
Click to expand...

I agree the 1.25" is only away from the framing member not the drywall.
 
iwire said:
I disagree, please post the code section to support that.

The cables can touch the drywall as long as they are 1.25" away from the edge of the framing member
Click to expand...

300.4(D) Cables and Raceways Parallel to Framing Members
and Furring Strips. In both exposed and concealed locations,
where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed
parallel to framing members, such as joists, rafters, or
studs, or is installed parallel to furring strips, the cable or raceway
shall be installed and supported so that the nearest outside
surface of the cable or raceway is not less than 32 mm
(11⁄4 in.) from the nearest edge of the framing member or furring
strips where nails or screws are likely to penetrate. Where
this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall
be protected from penetration by nails or screws by a steel
plate, sleeve, or equivalent at least 1.6 mm (1⁄16 in.) thick.

... the cable or raceway shall be installed and supported so that the nearest outside
surface of the cable or raceway is not less than 32 mm
(11⁄4 in.) from the nearest edge of the framing member or furring strips.

Ok, I suppose that you could interpret that to mean either horizontal distance away from the stud or depth in from the edge of the stud. I've always taken it to mean depth because the intent is to prevent long screws or nails from piercing the cable.

I'll agree that close to the framing member is the most vulnerable location during sheetrock installation but it could happen anywhere depending on how close the cable is to the back of the sheetrock and if the cable can move. Cable run within a cavity created by 1X furring is particularly vulnerable because the shallow depth would cause the cable to be "pinned" to the concrete by a screw or nail almost insuring penetration.

-Hal
 
hbiss said:
....Ok, I suppose that you could interpret that to mean either horizontal distance away from the stud or depth in from the edge of the stud. I've always taken it to mean depth because the intent is to prevent long screws or nails from piercing the cable.

-Hal
Click to expand...
I'm thinking you can put as many screws as you want, whatever length you have in a stud, six inches long half inch apart if you desire, and if the wire is an inch and a quarter away from that stud it will never get hit.
 
ActionDave said:
I'm thinking you can put as many screws as you want, whatever length you have in a stud, six inches long half inch apart if you desire, and if the wire is an inch and a quarter away from that stud it will never get hit.
Click to expand...
You ever been on a renovation where one side of wall was completely opened and when looking at what is there you notice all those screws in the other side that never hit a stud and wonder what is holding the drywall in place other then maybe the construction adhesive they used and a few screws at the ends or just the "starter screws" for that panel?;)
 
ActionDave said:
I'm thinking you can put as many screws as you want, whatever length you have in a stud, six inches long half inch apart if you desire, and if the wire is an inch and a quarter away from that stud it will never get hit.
Click to expand...

Normally drywall screws are chosen to penetrate the stud 1/2 to 3/4 inch. This is why bored holes have to be 1-1/4" in from the edge of the stud. But if someone is stupid enough to use six inch screws nothing is going to help.

kwired said:
You ever been on a renovation where one side of wall was completely opened and when looking at what is there you notice all those screws in the other side that never hit a stud and wonder what is holding the drywall in place other then maybe the construction adhesive they used and a few screws at the ends or just the "starter screws" for that panel?;)
Click to expand...

Never underestimate the ability of Ol' Dead-Eye the rocker. At least he's using the correct length screw but 1-1/4" horizontally isn't much. If there is cable 1-1/4" away and within 1/2 inch of the back of the sheetrock it can get hit. If it's 1-1/4" in there is no chance. This is why those Caddy CJ6s and other stackers maintain 1-1/4" in both directions.

Matter of fact wouldn't you have to straighten the CJ6s to remove the 1-1/4" offset to use them in a 1X furred wall? Isn't that modifying a listed product that would void the UL listing?

-Hal
 
All this what of is of no interest to the NEC.

The rule is simple, stay back 1.25" from the edge of framing or if in MA like I am .75" because they amended the NEC rule.
 
hbiss said:
Normally drywall screws are chosen to penetrate the stud 1/2 to 3/4 inch. This is why bored holes have to be 1-1/4" in from the edge of the stud. But if someone is stupid enough to use six inch screws nothing is going to help.



Never underestimate the ability of Ol' Dead-Eye the rocker. At least he's using the correct length screw but 1-1/4" horizontally isn't much. If there is cable 1-1/4" away and within 1/2 inch of the back of the sheetrock it can get hit. If it's 1-1/4" in there is no chance. This is why those Caddy CJ6s and other stackers maintain 1-1/4" in both directions.

Matter of fact wouldn't you have to straighten the CJ6s to remove the 1-1/4" offset to use them in a 1X furred wall? Isn't that modifying a listed product that would void the UL listing?

-Hal
Click to expand...
You have a point in that if Ol' Dead-Eye is 1-1/4 off he probably has a bad nickname.

I still believe that drilling or punching a hole in a box, cabinet, wireway, etc. is modifying a listed product but doesn't necessarily void the listing.

I also don't see that NM cable supports need to be listed (many are but I don't see they have to be), though we do have current thread on 2017 NEC requirements involving listing of cable ties.
 
Or use a Raco 404 or 405. You would need a single drop to each one with a splice above or below.

All I ever used was a 4" square, mud ring and a hammer. It would be different if I had a lot to do. My job is to get it done as efficiently as possible. It's the estimators job to make them money!
 
Jerseydaze said:
So I went with blowing big holes in the block and using 18 cu in plastic boxes .It was pretty easy using my rotary hammer with a chisel bit.
On a side not what can you use this box for ?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-8-cu-in-Flanged-Shallow-Old-Work-Box-B108R-UPC/100404058[/U]
Click to expand...

You can use that box with a surface extension box. Otherwise as is, you are still over allowable cubic inches with a single 14-2 and one device installed in it. May make more sense to just use surface box only in some instances, but then the combination of flush and extension will also mean less depth necessary for the extension box.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top