I think maybe the pre combination types? But even if so or if there is something else why not just go with the combination type breaker from the start? Probably isn't costing you any significant difference. Might even cost less to just go with the combination breaker type. I think AFCI receptacle mfgrs just wanted a piece of the action so they had to get something into code, even if it isn't practical right now they want something for when/if they do have something instead of waiting for code to catch up to them.
You got a model you could share for a 100V insulation tester? Need to get one
You lost me. Here is what the code says for what I think is the option everyone is talking about:
Fluke has one with several ranges up to 1000 volt. I'm sure there are others.
Can you narrow it down to the office lights?
I second pton's idea of using a GFCI breaker not another AFCI:
Fat chance in getting company to approve purchase breaker AFCI at $300 a piece at Home Depot. I did however get AFCI tamper resistant RECEPTACLES For $30 each. Whether it is LISTED for combination with breaker and per NEC is another topic But I’m not sure what I can do based on the fact that I can only advise company of codes
Real supply house you're looking at 65 bucks or less a piece that's what it cost a real company uses a real supply house and if they are big price conscious guys they will know that the man hours for a correction is much more than a correct install.
not sure where you are seeing $300, they are like $45-$65 and the upper end is for a dual function. Seems pretty likely you will fail an inspection using just an AFCi recep. If its not getting inspected and you r skipping code compliance then why bother with the AFCI at all?
It is a Homeline AFCI breaker.
I was able to split the circuit at the first receptacle. With the bath circuit only, the fan did trip the AFCI. With the lighting and office circuit, switching on the recessed lights did trip the AFCI. I'll try the GFCI breaker next time out. I'll post my findings when I know better.
I am not able to open this PDF. I'm not sure if it's my problem or the Forum's. This has happened with a PDF that I posted in another thread.
Wow so you split the circuit and both sides trip it?
Its funny how rarely (if ever) any of us regulars on this forum have this problem with places we actually wired.
Both sides had other lights and receptacles on it. They all worked fine. It wasn't until I switched on the bath fan that the AFCI tripped instantly. Same goes for the LED recessed lights in the office, as soon as I switched on the lighting circuit it tripped the AFCI immediately. I did not check N-G. I believe that would have tripped the breaker immediately irrespective of any lighting or receptacles being energized seeing as how they are spliced through and not switched. The puzzling part is that everything works perfectly with a std. breaker.
The PDF with your code change proposal opens fine for me.
You could have a neutral to EGC fault and it won't trip the breaker until a load is turned on. That's why it will trip on either side when something is turned on. If you put in a GFCI only breaker, it will do the same. Find where the fault is, or find where the neutral may be tied into another circuit.
My thoughts were possibly that the outlet device can be used with (might be listed with) the first generation AFCI's that did not have series arcing detection, but that may not be right. If that is true though it still kind of useless to most of us for new installs other than if you have an existing first generation AFCI breaker available to use.
