ramsy
NoFixNoPay Electric
- Location
- LA basin, CA
- Occupation
- Service Electrician
New Megger MIT2500 & MIT400/2 handheld models go down to 50 V. So does my older model.You got a model you could share for a 100V insulation tester? Need to get one
New Megger MIT2500 & MIT400/2 handheld models go down to 50 V. So does my older model.You got a model you could share for a 100V insulation tester? Need to get one
That's good advice. I wasn't aware that that it wouldn't trip until the load is turned on but the more I tink about it the more it makes sense.. I spoke to the HO yesterday and will not be able to get there until wednesday. I hope I find it.You could have a neutral to EGC fault and it won't trip the breaker until a load is turned on. That's why it will trip on either side when something is turned on. If you put in a GFCI only breaker, it will do the same. Find where the fault is, or find where the neutral may be tied into another circuit.
I believe as part of listing requirements class A GFCI's have a detection circuit to detect N-G faults even with no load on the circuit, a current is injected onto N and if circuit is completed via G- through the source and back to the GFCI on the hot, it sees same kind of imbalance that it is looking for in any trip condition.That's good advice. I wasn't aware that that it wouldn't trip until the load is turned on but the more I tink about it the more it makes sense.. I spoke to the HO yesterday and will not be able to get there until wednesday. I hope I find it.
I do not understand why the manufacturers didn’t do that with a AFCI’s as well. After all, a lot of the issues are caused by overdriven staples. Thanks for the info.I believe as part of listing requirements class A GFCI's have a detection circuit to detect N-G faults even with no load on the circuit, a current is injected onto N and if circuit is completed via G- through the source and back to the GFCI on the hot, it sees same kind of imbalance that it is looking for in any trip condition.
The dual function ones presumably do this. It is a ground fault protection thing and not an arc fault protection thing.I do not understand why the manufacturers didn’t do that with a AFCI’s as well. After all, a lot of the issues are caused by overdriven staples. Thanks for the info.
I can't speak to other brands, but Eaton DF breakers do not trip from a neutral-ground fault, or crossed neutrals, until a load is applied. I just finished a new house that had a tripping DF breaker. I discovered it only tripped when the lights for that room was turned on. I found that the room had been mistakenly fed from two branch circuits and the neutrals were crossed. Lights turned on from either location of the two branch circuits would cause a trip.The dual function ones presumably do this. It is a ground fault protection thing and not an arc fault protection thing.
I don't think the GFPE devices do this either, just the class A GFCI's.
Understood. Thanks for pointing that out.The dual function ones presumably do this. It is a ground fault protection thing and not an arc fault protection thing.
I don't think the GFPE devices do this either, just the class A GFCI's.
I can't speak to other brands, but Eaton DF breakers do not trip from a neutral-ground fault, or crossed neutrals, until a load is applied. I just finished a new house that had a tripping DF breaker. I discovered it only tripped when the lights for that room was turned on. I found that the room had been mistakenly fed from two branch circuits and the neutrals were crossed. Lights turned on from either location of the two branch circuits would cause a trip.
You still have potentially energized damaged conductors in that wall. They won't repair themselves.Well, I found it .... I ended up cutting the EGC short at each end and installing a small wire nut on that EGC. figured that was the best way to remedy this rather than cut the walls and ceilings open...
Had several time seen this, on GC installations. GC screaming over the *** AFCI that everytime they run the saw it would trip the AFCI.. A carpenter was working in another area of the house where he plugged his saw into a receptacle fed off the main breaker panel. Each time he used his saw it tripped the AFCI breaker in the sub-panel. Any thoughts on this ? I don't care how weird you think they might be. I can believe anything at this point.
The last afci problem I had, was a neutral in a recessed light junction box was sticking out of the connection box and pinched in the cover might be worth checking that.. I wasn't able to isolate the problem at the recessed lights so I'm guessing it was a staple in the wire. .
Interesting, I thought it was a listing requirement for all class A GFCI's to have this neutral to ground fault detection provision, but maybe not.I can't speak to other brands, but Eaton DF breakers do not trip from a neutral-ground fault, or crossed neutrals, until a load is applied. I just finished a new house that had a tripping DF breaker. I discovered it only tripped when the lights for that room was turned on. I found that the room had been mistakenly fed from two branch circuits and the neutrals were crossed. Lights turned on from either location of the two branch circuits would cause a trip.
Understood. At most it's 12' piece of NM cable going inside the wall and through the ceiling that has the EGC and neutral shorted together. What do you think is the worst that could happen ?You still have potentially energized damaged conductors in that wall. They won't repair themselves.
The worst is that the pressure of the over driven staple hasn't quite broken through the hots insulation, yet.Understood. At most it's 12' piece of NM cable going inside the wall and through the ceiling that has the EGC and neutral shorted together. What do you think is the worst that could happen ?
If that should happen, HOPEFULLY it will trip the breaker. Then we'll have to talk with the HO about breaking open the ceiling and walls.The worst is that the pressure of the over driven staple hasn't quite broken through the hots insulation, yet.
I wouldn't totally rule out an over driven staple, but I still lean towards a neutral to EGC fault. Have you taken everything on that circuit apart, including switches, lights, junction boxes, etc? You can verify the fault by disconnecting EVERYTHING and at the panel, take the EGC and neutral off the bar. Then check for continuity between the EGC and neutral.If that should happen, HOPEFULLY it will trip the breaker. Then we'll have to talk with the HO about breaking open the ceiling and walls.
Once upon a time I found a bad short ( neutral to ground) in a house that was less than 6 months old. Turned out to be a flying splice. It wasn't the electricians that did it. When they decided to finish the bonus room (before moveing in) they let the carpenters do the electrical.I wouldn't totally rule out an over driven staple, but I still lean towards a neutral to EGC fault.