Any issues with side-by-side 200A panels?

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4x4dually

4x4dually

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Location
Stillwater, OK
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Electrical Engineer/ Ex-Electrician
I've never mounted panels side-by-side before and the data sheets suck. I can't tell if the cover panel over hang will allow for them to be mounted in adjacent stud openings or not. I'm gonna guess that I'll need to put a double stud between them. Not knowing the NEC code book anywhere near as well as you folks, is there any concerns with a pair of 200A HOM4080 panels residing in adjacent stud openings?

Just starting the pad on our new home and getting major components ordered and thought I'd ask the question. I used the search function but none of my key words gave me any answers. I guess I might can try to measure mine when I get home. I was just curious is the code mentioned anything about separation distance since one panel door will swing in front of the other one when open. Am I required put a stud opening between them or should I just because?

Both will be fed from Generac and ATS on the outside of the brick wall via a gutter.....which will be a whole lot shorter if they are next to each other. :)
 
ggunn said:
Are the studs and wall existing? If so, when you add the stud will that opening still be wide enough to fit the panel?
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No, Sir. New construction. They are laying plumbing now in prep for the slab. Framing hasn't started. I'm trying to plan it all out so it looks nice, easy to install, and functions good.
 
4x4dually said:
I've never mounted panels side-by-side before and the data sheets suck. I can't tell if the cover panel over hang will allow for them to be mounted in adjacent stud openings or not.
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FWIW, the spec sheet for the cover says it's 15.5" wide. So with studs 16" o.c., the two panel covers should fit side by side without overlapping.

HOMC40UCW - Load center cover, Homeline, 40 spaces, combo flush and surface, white | Schneider Electric USA

Schneider Electric USA. HOMC40UCW - Load center cover, Homeline, 40 spaces, combo flush and surface, white.
www.se.com www.se.com

Cheers, Wayne
 
Based on what was posted I would say yes as well.
16 on center with an 1.5" width stud, 14.5" ID and a cover of 15.5" tells me the two covers will have a 1/2" gap.

Test fit after installed before rock?

Pull them out of box and lay a stud between them.

Maybe one item to mention. If in load bearing wall that's a.lot of holes thru the top plates.

If I recall you house plans the two were in an outside wall of the garage.
 
LarryFine said:
If the joists and/or rafters are stacked atop the studs, the top plate need not be considered load-bearing.
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Perhaps not for gravity loads, but it's still important for the wall integrity. If the any of the holes for wiring have a diameter larger than half the width of the plate, then the plate needs to be reinforced with a metal strap in the specified manner (except for interior, non-load bearing walls):


Cheers, Wayne
 
Most
LarryFine said:
If the joists and/or rafters are stacked atop the studs, the top plate need not be considered load-bearing.
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That is true.
Most walls are 16" center and roof trusses 24" on center.
So what we do is move one panel over one so we don't have a roof truss on top pate over panel. Two panles side by side 16 on center wall with 24" on center truss will have one bearing down on plate. Then all you have to do is add top tie plates. Just something to consider. However sounds like a framing insp issue.
 
In some.custom homes we build a bump out wall in the garage put panles in them and drill as many as we like.

4 foot bottom plate
4 foot top plate
4 studs
Then they insulate and rock.
Makes it easy to run see cable to meter as well for back to back.
In unfinished basement I do the same for panel.
Top plate bottom plate two studs.
Makes a nice install. All lumber on site and a bunch of nails laying around. One 2x4 flat between studs above to of panle and you have a nice NM nailer or cable tie nailer.
 
There's another trick I use when I do this. I notch between the studs on the back side before nailing to wall. No drilling maintain the 1.5" on front. No nail plates required either. I'm cheap.
Build on flat and stand up panles installed.
Just like a strut rack for panles. Build on ground and stand up.
Done, now go get to pulling or piping.
 
Side by side panels are done everyday. I've done tons of them with just a single stud between, covers fit nicely.
As for drilling through the top plate, never had an issue with that. Both, building and electrical inspectors, have never said a word. One or two stud sections is not going to cause any weakness if the top plate is drilled, especially if the top plate is doubled.
 
Thanks all. I didn't think to look up the cover datasheet, that was dumb, but in my defense I was pretty busy yesterday. LOL I ordered the two panels yesterday so when they both come in I can lay a stud between them and check as mentioned. Great ideas. I appreciate all the answers. The panels have been moved to another wall from the first plan as Tulsa Elec mentioned. It is still basically an 'external' garage wall, but it is under the roof (breezeway) between the house and garage. That way the ATS' can be under cover, out of the weather, and that moved the panels that much closer to the house. It also puts the panels away from the hip roof where I have several feet above that wall to access to add/remove/change/etc wiring later. I'll most likely put some nailer boards under the header panel turned up longways between the studs so I can support the trusses if needs be as well as give me a spot to organize and secure cables in a neat and orderly fashion.

The plan is to use my existing 22KW generac and feed two seperate ATS panels on the outside of the wall with a trough under both of them. Feeds will leave each ATS into the wall and the back of the panels. Should be nice and clean. Instead of doing a bunch of load shed circuitry and stuff, I'm just going to wire the one ATS and panel with critical loads that are well within my 22KW capacity (fridge/freeze/lights/etc) and wire the other ATS and panel with all the loads I want it to shed if we are not home and the power goes out. I plan on putting a "enable" switch on the outside of the second ATS where once I get home and ensure ovens, HVAC, etc are OFF, then I can flip the switch and pull in the other ATS and use everything in the house one piece at a time and monitor the load ampacity. I'm all ear for a better plan. This seems the simplest to me. This also puts the ATS' under the roof so when I have to go engage the manual one, I'm not in the rain. I plan on putting a toggle switch on the control wires to what I'm calling the manual ATS (oxymoron I know, LOL) so I can enable it with a flip of a switch. If we one day get a larger Generac, then I can already be setup for auto transfer and just remove the switch. And with a 50A RV plug for our camper on the Auto Panel with critical loads, if our Generac goes out, then I can back feed that panel by turning off the main breaker in it and connecting my Bobcat 250 welder/gen using the old widow maker cord. A back-up for a back-up. :cool:

Screenshot 2022-12-29 074752.jpg

Lots of room for expansion here. I'm not going to be caught installing tandem breakers in every slot again like the current house we live in. We added way too many rooms and add-ons after the fact. To me it's worth the extra cash to have two 40 slot panels.

Screenshot 2022-12-29 075616.jpg
 
Most "loadcenter" covers I've seen will be fine here. Worst case if they are too large is you may need to trim them down
 
kwired said:
....... trim them down
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Oh, God, no. No reason for me to make it look like a hack job with my grinder. LOL

Worst case I'll have the framer put an extra stud between them and throw the centers off for the sheet rockers. I won't be able to understand a single cuss word they will scream anyway. :D
 
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