Any issues with side-by-side 200A panels?

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No inspection in my remote location in the boonies. It's zero excuse to not do quality work, however, UL listings are the furthest thing from my mind. :) I would not butcher a cover panel.
 
4x4dually said:
Oh, God, no. No reason for me to make it look like a hack job with my grinder. LOL

Worst case I'll have the framer put an extra stud between them and throw the centers off for the sheet rockers. I won't be able to understand a single cuss word they will scream anyway. :D
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Chances are you do make it look hack with a grinder, and so do most of us. But what are the chances you take it someplace where they can get a nicer machined edge that looks just as clean as the original edge?

Still say not enough width to a typical load center cover to matter they probably only maximum of 1/2 inch wider than the cabinet.

Some real flush type panelboard covers might not be able to be that close to one another, but then those aren't typically fitting in 16 inch centered studs plus they usually too deep to be flush in a 2x4 framed wall.
 
I think the issue might be more getting the 1.5" strip of rock between them to stay screwed/nailed and not split.
 
4x4dually said:
I think the issue might be more getting the 1.5" strip of rock between them to stay screwed/nailed and not split.
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But isn't that somebody else's problem ;)

If they just slow down even a little bit, it probably works out most of the time. I'm presuming they are holding the sheet in place and cutting out in place with a rotary cutting tool.
 
I always have the framer put double studs between the panels. Probably not necessary but why chance it. If the wall framing was existing I can see trying to avoid modifying it but it its being built to spec the cost of the couple extra studs is worth it.
 
I wish the cover's were symmetrical where I could spin the insert over and put both door opening to the outside and keep both mains on the bottom like that.
 
4x4dually said:
I wish the cover's were symmetrical where I could spin the insert over and put both door opening to the outside and keep both mains on the bottom like that.
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I've long time wished they made the 3R ones so you could flip the inside over and have it bottom fed. I bet I bottom feed at least 75% of the ones I install and have no need to put the main on top.
 
I bet I can take my grinder, cut the center out of the cover plate, keep the insert where it is, and spin it, then weld it back on and re-paint it so the doors would both open out on both panels......but then I'd loose my UL listing. LMAO
 
4x4dually said:
I bet I can take my grinder, cut the center out of the cover plate, keep the insert where it is, and spin it, then weld it back on and re-paint it so the doors would both open out on both panels......but then I'd loose my UL listing. LMAO
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I don't see either of them opening "in" in the photo nor have I seen one in the wild. :unsure:

you must want one to hinge left and the other to hinge right?
 
Ya. It's be nice to open both and stand between them with both doors on the outside. Not possible the way they design these things. Seems like you should be able to mirror the panel and swap door from either side with main on bottom. Only way to swap door is to move main.
 
If possible with that many circuits I prefer to install one panel at the main location and install a sub panel closer to where the other half of the house is going to utilize the power. Usually cheaper in the long run and much easy to route wires. Shorter runs usually work better with GFCI and AFCIs as well
 
curt swartz said:
I always have the framer put double studs between the panels.
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This throws off the stud spacing unless you have 24" spaced walls (which are legal and cheaper!). Or, you have to fit a 14.5" panel in a 13" space. Interior wall can be fudged, as sheetrock is usually laid lengthwise along the wall, but exterior wall means something going on with those 8 x 4 OSB panels laid vertically (or you have different sheathing methods).
 
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