DrSparks
The Everlasting Know-it-all!
- Location
- Madison, WI, USA
- Occupation
- Master Electrician and General Contractor
Too much I2R loss.You guys like to work too hard. Just use an HVAC solid-state relay.
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Too much I2R loss.You guys like to work too hard. Just use an HVAC solid-state relay.
Relay in a Box by Functional Devices. Love em.Use a RIB
Gotta model suggestion? Those seem to cost a lot. Would love to find something that costs twice as much as the eaton contactor instead of 6-8 times.You guys like to work too hard. Just use an HVAC solid-state relay.
V AC, 45...450 HzSiemens makes a small contactor called a 3TG10 that is designed to be ”hum free”. I helped engineer a project in Vegas for the Wynn hotel, every room as a lighting contactor in the wall, guests complained about the hum. We tried several brands, the Siemens was the only one they couldn’t hear. The only problem is, they are only rated for 8.4A. That was enough for my project because it was all LED lighting.
This is as cheap as your going to get, as others have suggested.Gotta model suggestion? Those seem to cost a lot. Would love to find something that costs twice as much as the eaton contactor instead of 6-8 times.
Never been an issue but I’ve never heard a rib hum eitherSo just to be clear, for everyone recommending the RIBs, you've had no problems with hum on the non-latching relays?
Thanks for all the replies.
As a start: https://www.grainger.com/product/CRYDOM-Solid-State-Relay-1DTH6Gotta model suggestion? Those seem to cost a lot. Would love to find something that costs twice as much as the eaton contactor instead of 6-8 times.
That are pretty cool gonna have to get a few for the vanAs a start: https://www.grainger.com/product/CRYDOM-Solid-State-Relay-1DTH6
I agree about the RIBs. I have used them updating fire-suppression systems.
I have never heard one make a sound, and you can't beat the mounting ease.
I have know idea what you are trying to do there are literally 100s of different RIBS if you are doing anything with LED close to the 20amp rating go with the 30amp becuase the inrush on LED is crazy and will mess up the contactsGotta model suggestion? Those seem to cost a lot. Would love to find something that costs twice as much as the eaton contactor instead of 6-8 times.
I believe the relay coil inside it is dc, never heard one hum. It is driven off a printed circuit board.So just to be clear, for everyone recommending the RIBs, you've had no problems with hum on the non-latching relays?
Thanks for all the replies.
Ah, that would explain the 45-450 HzI believe the relay coil inside it is dc, never heard one hum. It is driven off a printed circuit board.
Interesting. As I'm looking at the RIB models they seem to allow both AC and DC coil input, so I wonder if that circuit board has a rectifier. That makes it a nice solution since I already have an AC transformer driving this and would prefer not to have to supply another device.I believe the relay coil inside it is dc, never heard one hum. It is driven off a printed circuit board.
I have know idea what you are trying to do there are literally 100s of different RIBS if you are doing anything with LED close to the 20amp rating go with the 30amp becuase the inrush on LED is crazy and will mess up the contacts
Grainger is a rip off as we all know try to order some place else but the company function devices has a ton of useful stuff such as ribs and powe lt supplies you should check out their product lineI was asking after the solid state relays. But I'm leaning toward trying the RIB given all the recommendations. The load is a heat pump, 15A 240V 1Ph. It's variable speed without a high LRA so I think I'm fine with 20A resitive rating, or even 15.
Yes, they are much higher, but unlike regular supply houses, they have it in stock if you need it right now. If you have time to wait though, it is much cheaper elsewhere.Grainger is a rip off as we all know try to order some place else but the company function devices has a ton of useful stuff such as ribs and powe lt supplies you should check out their product line
They make them in two and three pole also, I believe. Just go to Functional Devices website to see what model you need.I need a two pole device. Guess I should have said that, although I did mention the 2-pole eaton model I was using in OP.