correct grounding

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Katessa Harris said:
In a house that is not new construction, is there a way to tell if it has been properly grounded?

My suggestion is to have a skilled electrician make the call. Satisfy yourself to his/her credentials, first. :smile:
 
Katessa Harris said:
In a house that is not new construction, is there a way to tell if it has been properly grounded?

I would look for ground rods, which most won't have, water pipe bonding and proper bonding of any metal conduit that contain service conductors. I would also make sure the service panel is bonded properly and would check any subpanels to be sure they have separate bars for the grounding conductors.
 
nakulak said:
I wanted to reply to the other thread with this same name, but it was closed.

Well, what's wrong with replying to this thread?

Roger
 
grounding

grounding

There are many previous posts on how to measure ground resistance. The specification limit seems to be < 25 ohms.

The instruments made for this purpose use frequencies other than 60 Hz, or multiples thereof, because there seems to be a lot of ground noise at various freqs. I think there are some favored, "quiet", freqs. commonly used.
This 60 Hz prohibition kind of puts a damper on homebrew ground testers.

You may want to read some of Fluke's online literature on this.

If they don't use DC, then ground impedance, Z, =E/I, where Z, E, and I are all vectors, not scalars. In principle the measurement is very straightforward, but there are probably many ins and outs when actually doing this. I wouldn't rule out a shock hazard.

Using a schematic (or wiring diagram which is not the same thing) of your service as a roadmap-of-sorts may prevent confusion as to where the current is actually going. If the current goes through your body then there usually is no confusion.
 
there is no requirement that the ground resistance be any particular value in the code. as long as the required GE connections are present, its good as far as the code is concerned.
 
Lxnxjxhx said:
There are many previous posts on how to measure ground resistance. The specification limit seems to be < 25 ohms.
The code does not have a maximum limit on the grounding resistance. What it says if a rod, pipe or plate electrode is more than 25 ohms an second electrode must be added. Then you go home.
 
Philosophy question

Philosophy question

If the NEC is about safety, I'd think where it is reasonably practical to do so there'd be performance testing required. Is this wrong? Is testing of new work just "good practice?"

It doesn't seem to me that following proper procedures, even meticulously, always guarantees the desired result.
 
Lxnxjxhx said:
If the NEC is about safety, I'd think where it is reasonably practical to do so there'd be performance testing required. Is this wrong? Is testing of new work just "good practice?"
It doesn't seem to me that following proper procedures, even meticulously, always guarantees the desired result.
The connection to earth has very little to do with electrical safety in standard building wiring installations. 250.56 is the only place the 25 ohm rule showes up and it only applied to rod, pipe (driven pipe, not water pipe) and plate type electrodes. It only says that if you don't have 25 ohms or less with the first electrode you install a second. There is no requirement to try to get down to the 25 ohms.
 
testing of new work, not just for grounding

testing of new work, not just for grounding

I finally figured out what bothers me about this.

If you follow The Code, you're covered, . . .right? OK, here's something from
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moral_hazard
"For example, an individual with insurance against automobile theft may be less vigilant about locking his car, because the negative consequences of automobile theft are (partially) borne by the insurance company."

I mentioned some guys who wired my screened porch in another post. Now, I recall that while the outlets did actually supply electricity the GF did not trip with a 60 mA fault from L to G. The test button did work because it connects an internal resistor.
If this was his own screened porch, would he have put a resistor or small lamp from hot to ground?
The inspector wrote this guy up from A to Z for other problems, but I didn't him using a test lamp either.

When there is a problem, how is the Hot Potato of Blame, the "due diligence" issue, handled? Does the NFPA assume liability?
 
Lxnxjxhx said:
Now, I recall that while the outlets did actually supply electricity the GF did not trip with a 60 mA fault from L to G. The test button did work because it connects an internal resistor.
Not possible. If the GFCI trips with the internal test button it will trip with a 60mA external ground fault. All the internal resistor does is let some of the current flow on a path that is not sensed by the current sensor.
 
There are many previous posts on how to measure ground resistance. The specification limit seems to be < 25 ohms.

The instruments made for this purpose use frequencies other than 60 Hz, or multiples thereof, because there seems to be a lot of ground noise at various freqs. I think there are some favored, "quiet", freqs. commonly used.
This 60 Hz prohibition kind of puts a damper on homebrew ground testers.

If there are any grounding issues this is the least of your concerns. A complete visual inspection BY SOMEONE that knows what they are looking at is IMO the best solution.

Is this wrong? Is testing of new work just "good practice?"

Yes it is wrong, because the average electrician is not going to perform the test properly so the results are meaningless.

Do you perform earth ground resistance test?
 
Last edited:
080427-1942 EST


The basic theory of a GFCI is a current transformer with a threshold detector on the current transformer output that trips a latch.

If you run the hot and neutral wires thru the current transformer in the correct direction, then if both currents are equal they balance each other and the current transformer output is zero. A resistive load on the current transformer output provides a voltage proportional to the unbalanced current. There are other ways to build the same device.

For some very useful information see
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM1851.pdf
Notice the trip-time curve on p4, and a typical circuit figure 2 on p6. Note: the UL specification is rather long at 5 MA, about 5 seconds, and to get 1/2 cycle operation it is about 200 to 300 MA.

To cause an unbalanced current it is not necessary that the leakage be to ground. Any way that a sufficient unbalanced current can be introduced into either the hot or neutral conductor will cause the device to trip.

.
 
. . .you perform earth ground resistance test?

. . .you perform earth ground resistance test?

No, but I did electronics work.

With equipment that had sensitive inputs driving several watts of power on the output we had to worry about single point grounds, but that was it.

We don't have the equivalent of the NEC, so I guess we did a lot more testing. At least I did.
 
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