Dear Lawd -- Did you see THIS? (2 Port 5-15P 120V 15 Amp 3 Prong Plug Male to 14-50R 120/240V 30Amp 4 Prong Female Receptacle Y Combiner)

[Dennis Alwon]

Hellooo!!.... extension cords.
Apologies I just couldn't help myself.
It's seams like the kinda HACK a floor finisher might be interested in.

Yep I overlooked that... It still seems ridiculous for someone who doesn't get it to know they need 2 circuits on different phases.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Most of my reviews post in a few days, but they are generally positive. Negative reviews tend to take long IME, but I have posted only a few.

Questions seem to post immediately but unless there is an answer don't seem to show up. So I asked about the UL listing like J did.

View attachment 2561540

Have fun with that in the newer homes with AFCI & DF protection almost everywhere.

 

[RDF]

I suppose that would 240V, 15 Amps each side.

Or if the same phase -- 120V, 30 Amps (adding the sort of parallel 15 amp circuits together).

But it IS a pretty Yellow -- so that part looks good. (dear lawd, again).

I thought code didn't allow for parallel conductors that are 10 gauge so the 120V, 30A would be non-code-compliant. Not too many 120V receptacles adjacent to one another and fed by separate phases unless kitchen counter receptacles were fed that way. Somebody will end up with problems in the various ways they will attempt to utilize this device.

 

[RDF]

Don't even get me started, Wayne. I'll get banned for derailment. When all the electric vehicles get charged 100% from Solar or wind, then maybe they will take a step toward lowering the carbon footprint. Until then, it's absolutely nothing shy of total hypocrisy. $.02

Moving along....

Let me know when they outfit fire departments with the ability to put out a fire from a Lithium car battery. For now, they just watch them burn.

 

[retirede]

I thought code didn't allow for parallel conductors that are 10 gauge so the 120V, 30A would be non-code-compliant. Not too many 120V receptacles adjacent to one another and fed by separate phases unless kitchen counter receptacles were fed that way. Somebody will end up with problems in the various ways they will attempt to utilize this device.

Generally, the code stops at the outlet.

 

[jaggedben]

The Telsa wall unit can be configured to draw anywhere from 12 to 48 amps.

Not relevant. The wall unit does plug into anything.

My understanding is the car itself can be set to charge at a lower current, but that asks for an additional level of savvy on the part of the user, maybe two or three levels of savvy.

 

[Phil Timmons]

I thought code didn't allow for parallel conductors that are 10 gauge so the 120V, 30A would be non-code-compliant. Not too many 120V receptacles adjacent to one another and fed by separate phases unless kitchen counter receptacles were fed that way. Somebody will end up with problems in the various ways they will attempt to utilize this device.

oh yeah, there are 100 reasons this thing is a stupid dangerous device. Probably would be banned from import if I were king for a day.

 

[BarryO]

Not relevant. The wall unit does plug into anything.

My understanding is the car itself can be set to charge at a lower current, but that asks for an additional level of savvy on the part of the user, maybe two or three levels of savvy.

It's done at the "commissioning" stage of the installation of the wall unit. That limits the current draw that the car will use (the charger is actually inside the car, and communicates with the wall unit when it is plugged in). https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...en3_WallConnector_Commissioning_Procedure.pdf

 

[petersonra]

hey. I got the top review!!!

 

[jaggedben]

It's done at the "commissioning" stage of the installation of the wall unit. That limits the current draw that the car will use (the charger is actually inside the car, and communicates with the wall unit when it is plugged in). https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...en3_WallConnector_Commissioning_Procedure.pdf

I know that. And the car can still be told to charge at a lower current than the wall unit is set for. And it's all still irrelevant to the OP.