kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
But sheetrock screws must be for sheetrock....
Drill and tapping unistrut
- Thread starter Firetender
- Start date
- Status
electrofelon
Senior Member
- Location
- Cherry Valley NY, Seattle, WA
I don't think I would try to cite people for it, but IMO drywall screws are for drywall. I find it super mongrel to use them as general purpose screws.But sheetrock screws must be for sheetrock....
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Though I don't seem to use them as often as I once did, they are easy to drive with hand screwdriver compared to many other general purpose screw types. Going into a crawl space and want to minimize dragging so many tools and supplies with you for a fairly limited task, bring the drwyall screws instead of general purpose type screws for mounting things and leave the drill behind. That was back in the day when we were using cordless drills to mount things but the drills then were bulkier than most are today.
iceworm
Curmudgeon still using printed IEEE Color Books
- Location
- North of the 65 parallel
- Occupation
- EE (Field - as little design as possible)
I love them for cabinets, general wood working - high tensile strength, sharp threads. One can get cad plated, and coatings suitable for outdoors.
If you don't like Phillips, then square drive and torx are available.
If the 1-5/8 #6 are too wimpy, #8 and #10 are available.
I think the longest I have bought were 6".
What is not to like?
(edit to add) That high tensile strength: They are a bit brittle. Yes the 1-5/8 #6 will snap a bit easier than I would like. So, buy the #8.
If you don't like Phillips, then square drive and torx are available.
If the 1-5/8 #6 are too wimpy, #8 and #10 are available.
I think the longest I have bought were 6".
What is not to like?
(edit to add) That high tensile strength: They are a bit brittle. Yes the 1-5/8 #6 will snap a bit easier than I would like. So, buy the #8.
zbang
Senior Member
- Location
- Roughly 5346 miles from Earls Court
Well.... drywall screws are usually more brittle and (it is said, 30 years ago) are designed to be easily broken off. So-called deck screws are more malleable and come with different coatings (and heads). I don't use drywall screws unless I'm actually hanging drywall, otherwise, for interior work it's "construction" screws.
Probably more than you wanted to know is at https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/screws-screws-arent/
Probably more than you wanted to know is at https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/screws-screws-arent/
oldsparky52
Senior Member
- Location
- Wilmington, NC USA
An interesting way to use those two words.
iceworm
Curmudgeon still using printed IEEE Color Books
- Location
- North of the 65 parallel
- Occupation
- EE (Field - as little design as possible)
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electrofelon
Senior Member
- Location
- Cherry Valley NY, Seattle, WA
Yeah I was going to say a similar thing to ice worm. Sounds like he was not talking about true drywall screws. Not all bugle head screws are drywall screws. The t-25 deck screws big orange has are actually some of my favorite. They have some nice features.. my local hardware store has similar ones but the drive on the 1 1/4 and 1 5/8 ones is T-20. Drives me nuts
zbang
Senior Member
- Location
- Roughly 5346 miles from Earls Court
Drives me nuts
You don't need nuts on them
.(Also been bitten by the T-20/T-25 torx business. And if someone asked for a T-25, I have to ask if they mean stapler or screw....)
Oldmaster2
Member
- Location
- PA
- Occupation
- Master Electrician
Actually I bought drywall screws at HD and they say " for general fastening".
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
General construction screws are usually hardened material and will shear off easier than non hardened fasteners, but pull out strength is usually stronger presuming the material they are threaded into holds up.
- Status